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Discussion starter · #61 · (Edited)
I have the bluish colored paint so am thinking the engine cover side tins were repainted at some point plus there are some areas of paint delaminating and chips or little chunks missing in the paint.. if I could just scuff with 400 and repaint I would. Nothing in my life is ever seems to be that easy “ shoulder shrugs “

By the way these side tins and hood are not from the same tractor. I do have some tins and fenders that are powder coated. I’m not working with those atm, thank god. The tractor these will go on do have powder coated tins, fenders, hood uprights etc. just doing a little bit at a time. Trying to learn as much as I can with these tractor before I try tackling other rejects like vehicles etc.
 
Discussion starter · #62 ·
I have been sanding with 220 to get rid of the non John Deere paint. There are a lot of different transitions and the panels are not perfect. I have used a body hammer and flat end of a ball peen on the back side to remove dings, divers etc. sure wish I had areaf body hammer and pieces that get held on the back side of the panel when dings are being tapped out back to smooth. Does harbor freight sell a body panel dent flattening hammer set?
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Some pics of the 220 grit sanded panels.

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Discussion starter · #64 · (Edited)
Worse case scenario is media blast them in the harbor freight blast cabinet. However this will not teach me anything though. I won’t be able to media blast a whole vehicle. So I’m trying to learn how to sand the metal panels down properly.
 
Just use ur da sander and 120 or 80 gritto remove that paint,that will detect the low spots that you need to pound out,I think HF would have a body hammer.
 
Discussion starter · #66 · (Edited)
Slow progress. I got frustrated and weather is not good now. All rainy. I ended up spraying the engine side covers with rustolium 2 in 1 filler primer after sanding with 220. I hit a road block with the hood too. I get frustrated easy and when things don’t look the way they should look I get irritated.

I plan to sand the side covers back down to just about all green then primer with black, sand smooth then paint.

I purchased a gearwrench hammer and dolly set for $117 on Amazon. It’s not the best but should be sufficient if I am able to smooth out some of the hammer edges.

I also got a 420 hood on eBay for $150+tax shipped that will need some love eventually. The 420 with the new hood looks worlds better than what it looked like prior to the new hood. Build a 420 or 316?

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Isn’t 420 hood too long,sending u pm.
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
The 420 hood is for the 420 tractor. Yes it would not only be too long but too wide as well.
 
Great job N2!

Its amazing how well these old hoods can be repaired. I had my maiden voyage with fiberglass on my 400 hood. I removed the and reglued the nose or headlight assembly on mine since it was loose.
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Discussion starter · #70 ·
Nice repair Merc. What did you use to glue the two pieces back together?
 
Discussion starter · #72 ·
I ordered fender pan grip tape pads, tail light kits for both sides and spare fuel pump. They were all waiting for me in the mail box today.
 
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Discussion starter · #73 ·
Ok back at sanding the 2 in 1 primer filler off of the engine covers with 320. Then I'll primer it with the black and sand with 400 grit. Where do the 3m scotchbright sanding pads come into play? After primer before color?
 
Nowhere now,it will be used to scuff original paint to paint,it’s not something you want on new paint jobs,heck it MIGHT be ok but I’ve never used it and don’t know anyone that has,
After 400 sanding,tack cloth jut paint if you are satisfied with the finish
 
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Discussion starter · #75 ·
Yeah lots of sanding, redoing, sanding, priming, sanding, cussing in frustration and redoing. I sprayed one with black primer today and I think this primer is good stuff. I can see most of the imperfectuons very easy too using the black. However I messed up some how and bumped it or something did. I was using a blow dryer to speed up the flash over time. Maybe the blow dryer cord bumbed it IDK. Getting tired of this already is all I know arg.
 
Discussion starter · #76 · (Edited)
I had a couple of high spots I tried to smoth out with hammer and dolly and made more low and high spots. This required more sanding followed by more hammer dolly work. I got it smooth enough to where I think spot putty, filler primer and primer will fill in the void of the missing paint from all the sanding. Spot putty sands off too easy and does not seem to fill any voids bigger than a hair deep without being sanded off again too easily.

Below are pics of todays progress on the black primered engine cover. The last pic shows how I taped off and sprayed filler primer followed by black primer as well as how it got messed up. The good thing is it's only paint and it can be removed and done over again... and again.. and again until it is good enough.

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Discussion starter · #77 ·
Sanded the panel down and resprayed the bad areas. Bad spot sanded down.

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You are learning a hard painting lesson,painting takes patience,do some primer,let dry,sand ,then do int again,you started with difficult parts with the dents and scratches,you are learning to do fiberglass,
I just happen to have a lot of patience and that is needed.
What you have looks fine just as long as you don’t have too much primer on it,a very thin coat is fine after all the imperfections are eliminated
 
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Discussion starter · #79 ·
You mentioned if the primer is too thick it will eventually cause the paint to crack. Is there a specific reason for this? Let’s say the filler primer is a little thick over a low spot. If one was to let the primer cure for a longer duration of time does or will the final paint still eventually crack? Just trying to understand why the cracking happens.
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
While at Walmart yesterday I saw some bondo short strand fiberglass in a can that gets needed like dough and mixed with hardener iirc. Would this stuff be a viable solution to doing crack repairs?

There is also similar type fiberglass bondo in a can for doing metal body work. I’m not a big fan of the chemical plastic body fillers. I know there is lead but barely any one ever messs with lead anymore and being as toxic as it is I don’t need any more toxins in my body.

Have you or anyone else ever used fiberglass over metal for dent filling repairs and is it a good alternative to plastic body fillers?
 
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