Fired it up this morning and all was fine for a while then it started dropping one cylinder and now its running on the right cylinder as you are seated in the cab. Pulled the left plug and it was wet. Pulled the right plug and put it in the left side and left plug in the right side. Still firing only on the right side and left side has no spark. I'm told there is a module that goes to heck that generally runs $200+ dealer cost and Amazon has it for $40 plus shipping. Haven't seen the module. Where is it located? Is it potted or can it be opened up and repaired? I doubt its a ignition coil since it was running ok but I will swap sides and see if the problem follows.
425 on one cylinder
Joe In IA
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Fired it up this morning and all was fine for a while then it started dropping one cylinder and now its running on the right cylinder as you are seated in the cab. Pulled the left plug and it was wet. Pulled the right plug and put it in the left side and left plug in the right side. Still firing only on the right side and left side has no spark. I'm told there is a module that goes to heck that generally runs $200+ dealer cost and Amazon has it for $40 plus shipping. Haven't seen the module. Where is it located? Is it potted or can it be opened up and repaired? I doubt its a ignition coil since it was running ok but I will swap sides and see if the problem follows.
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Yes swap the coils and see if the problem follows the coil. If it does not then replace the module. But check the wire harness and connections before you replace anything
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I'm not sure what module is $200 from the dealer and $40 on Amazon, but if you following the troubleshooting on this thread, you should be able to figure it out. 345 no spark one cylinder
The 345 engine is essentially a vertical shaft version of your 425 engine and is the exact same ignition.
The 345 engine is essentially a vertical shaft version of your 425 engine and is the exact same ignition.
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My hardest problem was finding the module and I located it under the starter. Analysis and diagnosis is easy for me I spent 25+ years as a service technician. I've never thrown parts at anything. I do however believe in having back up parts just in case something goes bad. Generally it goes bad when you need to use that particular piece of equipment.
Still locating my tools and meters after moving across the county. To make sure the 425 won't let me down in the middle of the winter I ordered a coil and a module. The start switch module assembly I can fix if the need arises up the road. Either the coil or the module can be the fault right now along with faulty connections and so forth. First I will verify voltage to the coil and go from there.
With respect to OEM parts.... Some firmly believe they are the only way to go. There are others like myself that will venture to purchase the "White Box" parts. My Envoy needed a heater/fan control module last winter and GM's price was $110 and I bought the same exact part same part number same circuit board and so forth for less than $20
Still locating my tools and meters after moving across the county. To make sure the 425 won't let me down in the middle of the winter I ordered a coil and a module. The start switch module assembly I can fix if the need arises up the road. Either the coil or the module can be the fault right now along with faulty connections and so forth. First I will verify voltage to the coil and go from there.
With respect to OEM parts.... Some firmly believe they are the only way to go. There are others like myself that will venture to purchase the "White Box" parts. My Envoy needed a heater/fan control module last winter and GM's price was $110 and I bought the same exact part same part number same circuit board and so forth for less than $20
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The OEM module I was talking about is the "Igniter module" AM105574 which is generally in the $175-200 price range.
Usually a one cylinder run condition is going to be any or a combination of the following. 1.) Faulty connections/connector at the module or coil
2.) Intermittent open in coil or totally open
3.) Faulty Igniter module
There are of course the lesser evils of a faulty coil wire and or spark plug. Generally what I mentioned will take care of the offense.
If you find an alternative to the OEM Denso igniter, please do post your experience. Mine hasn't failed but if it does I'd love a proven alternative - I'm sure others on the forum would as well.
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What is the Denso on?
The Kawasaki/Deere igniter is made by Denso.
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Ok, had to go to the garage and take another look. I have the same part on my 425. So, your saying it won't work and or last? It would appear that the igniter has failed for other people and luckily for you yours is still working. I'm at a loss as to why a aftermarket part that is missing the "Green Sticker" would function any less reliably. I could tell you with 100% certainly that if you move the module to another location where it is less likely to soak heat from the engine it will last far longer then where it is now.
Not at all, Denso makes quality products.
I haven't seen that part selling for less than $200 and if you can find a quality functional equivalent for $40, I would love to know about it. I'm sure others would like to have a viable alternative as well.
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If it happens that the module is the cause of my problem I will replace it with the $40 part and if the coil happens to be the problem I will install the module for grins just to see how it functions. I do believe I will be making an off set bracket to move the module away from the engine block . I can see that John Deere mounted it there for convenience sake and probably to sell replacement parts. Sorry, I'm not sold on having to replace parts with the "Name Brand" parts. My opinion I guess. The module I purchased is on Greenpartstore. I would assume if they had problems with it they wouldn't be carrying it. I guess I will be posting my experience with it in the future for all to read.
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It looks like an actual Denso part. Does it say Denso on the label?
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Thank you for posting that - I just ordered one as a backup for my GX345 as it's about the only electronic item that I haven't replaced.
I see it's the same price on greenfarmparts.com as well - looks like JD may have changed the pricing on that part.
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Gentlemen, I posted the picture that Greenpartstore had pictured by the pn and description for the igniter. I can't tell you anymore until the part arrives. Please do not take any offense at my responses as I'm only trying to show that there may be an alternative to the higher priced parts. Generally parts can run thru 2 or more distributors and each time the price gets higher and higher. Sometimes the same part can be boxed by different distributors with different logo's and so forth. I've personally seen GM parts in three different boxes with different prices on each box. I've seen the same with Ford. So it wouldn't be uncommon for this to happen with small engine/tractor parts and or John Deere parts since some of the Deere stuff comes from different companies such as Denso.
Cheaper Ignition Module for 425?? - OEM AM105574 : Denso...
Hey guys. Finally have my tractors back after being in storage for a while. The 425 always had a problem with the left ignition, intermittent at best when cold. The right always fires and swapping the L/R coils doesn't change a thing. Swapped plugs, same deal. The wiring appears solid and...
www.mytractorforum.com
Removing wiring connector terminals for cleaning
I have had some issues with wiring on my tractors like many of you have had. Many times it is a connector with 1/4" spade such as on a control board that isn't making a solid connection with the female portion in the plastic connector. They are actually removable without much trouble and you can...
www.mytractorforum.com
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After going thru the mentioned threads in the above post I cannot personally use a dielectric grease on connectors. I would however recommend Deoxit. I can base this on the last 26 years of being a service and bench repair technician. I would also advocate cleaning over replacing the connector with some kind of dime store splice. If your heck bent on replacing then lets do it properly using the proper connectors, crimp tool, and heat shrink tubing.
I would highly recommend using a crimp type connector and either a ratcheting crimp tool or a Klein crimp tool. Any other type of crimp tool simply leaves a flat spot on the connector which results in a poor and usually intermittent connection. Do not under any circumstances use a blade type connector that you generally find in a typical trailer type wiring scheme whereas the blade is pushed into the wire by means of a pair of pliers.
I should have mentioned but I'm sure that most of us have become familiar to heat shrink tubing. You simply cut a piece that is ample length to cover the connector make the connection and then use a blow drier to heat the material so it shrinks over the connector. Note* a cigarette lighter is not a proper heat source to be used to shrink the material.
I would highly recommend using a crimp type connector and either a ratcheting crimp tool or a Klein crimp tool. Any other type of crimp tool simply leaves a flat spot on the connector which results in a poor and usually intermittent connection. Do not under any circumstances use a blade type connector that you generally find in a typical trailer type wiring scheme whereas the blade is pushed into the wire by means of a pair of pliers.
I should have mentioned but I'm sure that most of us have become familiar to heat shrink tubing. You simply cut a piece that is ample length to cover the connector make the connection and then use a blow drier to heat the material so it shrinks over the connector. Note* a cigarette lighter is not a proper heat source to be used to shrink the material.
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With respect to parts again..... John Deere doesn't make the Denso module. The module is actually manufactured overseas by another company. This part can and does carry other part numbers for different vendors and you might even see the John Deere name and or a John Deere Part Number on it. Generally speaking a lets say $300 part with a XYZ sticker on it probably isn't any better than a $40 part with a plain sticker on it. Both can and usually come out of the same factory. They know a percentage of their product will be sold for $300, 150, 100, even 40 depending on how its boxed and marketed. Differences.... some might be in fit and finish. Example.. I bought a module one time and its box had some scratches on it. A regulator for a Onan engine charging system that was .015 wider than the original and I had to use a file to the opening in the sheet metal in order to mount it. Incidentally its still working strong 6 years later and it was a $10 regulator instead of a $40 one.
Thank you for the Deoxit recommendation. Just ordered some.
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