Hey guys new to the forum, this is my second ariens and first gt20. Guy that had it before me got into the wiring which doesn't surprise me. I'm having a tough time figuring out why the read pto is live all the time. The butt connector has been disconnected and there is no switch.. Im not very savvy when it come to electrical work but know enough to be dangerous. How can this pto clutch be receiving power all the time with out a switch to complete the circuit?
Ariens gt20 rear pto live all the time
spankgt
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Solid tube with a moon shape notch in the front bearing retainer. Where was the notch located you are referring to?
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Retainers?
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It looks like bushings come separately, and the one I'm seeing on Jacks doensn't have the notch like non PS units. My old GT17 had the notch, and the bearing flanges look different as well...
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All the twins used a wider frame at the engine to accommodate the horizontal cylinders otherwise all the same length and width. Front axles changed a little from the S-H. My GT19 & 20 even have the frame mounting for the manual steering box. From what I have seen all the Vickers and Sundstrand were the same per model year. Think the final drives never changed from the Dana. In fact the Sundstrand on my S16H is identical to the one on the GT19. The late model GT20 was setup a little different. Easily determined by a change in shift pattern. Yes I have to watch which machine I am on to go from forwards to reverse. Other wise pretty much the same tractor by looks.
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Very interesting.. The more I look at these machines the more attracted I am to them. Beyond their time. Looking forward to seeing this ol girl work for me. Let go of a good 17 a couple years ago and never thought I'd have the opportunity to come across another unit as clean as it was. Feeling like I hit the jackpot on this one.
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I missed out on a S16H last spring at an action. A parts scalper was bid against me. The tractor was not even known to run and was missing the starter. I buy only with the intentions of putting them back into working order. I know he made his money back but just could not see what it brought on a tractor that may take hundreds to put back together. Form what I have learnt on here and else where I would not be afraid of anything S-H, GT or Grand Sierra. They will all use the same implements All were horizontal shaft engines and shaft drive.
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Ive noticed that everything is pretty interchangeable as well. I'm thinking about repowering this 20 with a predator or another Kohler but don't know if I wanna go down that path until it completely craps out on me. Do you have any suggestions? Pros and cons of both?
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W
What's wrong with the Kohler?
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Nothing atm just been playing with the idea.
If there isn't anything wrong what that motor. Don't touch it, its **** near bulletproof. But if you do. I'll take it off your hands. Free pick up 
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Good to know. I knew these old cast iron bores would run forever, just never know how well it was maintained priorIf there isn't anything wrong what that motor. Don't touch it, its **** near bulletproof. But if you do. I'll take it off your hands. Free pick up
True. change oil put synthetic in. Change oil/air filter,.plugs, trans filter. Make sure rear is full of oil. she should rock for a while
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plugs looked pretty crappy, when i went to pick it up oil was on the low level.. still need to go through the carburetor, seems to lose fuel pressure after sitting for awhile. always takes atleast 10 cranks sometimes more to get it to pop off. I can shut it off, wait 30 seconds hit the start and itll fire right up. If it sits for a couple hours it takes some time to get fuel built up. Or so it seems..
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What you using for fuel? I use only non alcohol base and have no problem with start ups. Even though Kohler say 10% is safe it does run and start better on straight gas. Fuel lines also last longer. If using synthetic oils don't forget these old engines require some form of zinc. If you suspect you are really have a fuel system problem the fuel pump maybe going out or a filter that needs replacement. Even with a good pump I have found them to be a real pain in the butt to prime.
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I only run the higher octane fuel, and I still have yet to change the oil. (thanks for the zinc tip) I changed the fuel filter and it made a difference. Think a good carb clean and rebuild would go a long ways. I'll clean it first and then make my analysis. I haven't owned it long enough to really know how she operates. Every tractor is different.
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If the runs ok once started check the intake and carb mounting and gaskets. Could also be part off the starting problem. I have had to clean the fuel bowl on mine but don't think it has ever had a carb kit installed in it life time.
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