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Obscured_by_Clouds

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
For the fourth time in twenty years, I'm stuck behind several feet of flood waters. Road is mostly clear, but there can be sections of 2-300 feet that are impassible. Some places might be a foot deep while others are ten feet deep or more.

A few people use kayaks, canoes or other standard craft. But that means carrying (portage) them between flooded sections as well as any supplies or cargo.

I'd like to basically drive the roads as normal, wheeled on the dry portions, boat the flooded portions without loading/unloading.

Ideally, I'm thinking of a flat hard bottom due to the potential of shrubs, stumps, fenceposts and so on.

I can see adding a standard single axle shaft with 8 or 12 inch trailer tires on the rear and some kind of steering axle on the front. Or a single wheel like a tricycle.

On water drive could be a trolling motor. Land drive is the issue. A simple chain/sprocket drive seems the easiest. But what to do for a motor? 12VDC with a battery? Small gasser? How would speed be controlled? Simple throttle cable on gasser?

I don't care too much about axle bearings rusting since it would be on dry land 99% of the time. Standard trailer axle bearings should suffice as long as they have grease zirks.

Yes, there are factory versions, but they are WAY out of my budget. I'd like to stay under $500 if possible other than the boat itself. I can find those pretty cheap used, even if I have to reseal the hull. I know I can get or make a rear axle unit for $100 or so.
 
How about a pontoon attachment for your garden tractor? Stick a propellor on the pto shaft? I think there is plenty of room for some redneck engineering, here.
 
You might do well to start with an older ATV as a base. They have the intake and exhaust up high to begin with. I've seen some of them driven into water holes out in the dunes. Obviously, they didn't make it through. However, on some of them, the operator climbs off and the ATV itself floats. Add a couple chunks of styrofoam or pontoons, maybe some bigger tires, and rig your trolling motor to it and you got it.

On a couple quads I had 15 years back, with enough running start, I could cross a couple hundred feet of open water with a long enough running start. The cold water spray I'm sure wasn't good on the hot engine though...

Here's a video of what we'd do...
 
On 1 episode of Alaska the Last Frontier, they attached floats to a 4x to drive it across a river.
I can't remember if they added a trolling motor or just let the tires move it.
 
BTW we did have to deal with floodwaters when I was younger, but we were a lot smarter about it. We just moved to higher ground, and life got a whole lot simpler.
I think he is saying that his home is fine, it's the roads he has to travel to get into town etc. Everything can't be on top of a hill.

I know we joke about such things, but flooding is a serious thing. I guess the best solution is to stock up so you don't have to travel if flooded. Not always easy.
 
I have a few questions out of curiosity. Is this road private or public?
If private and you plan on living there a while then a permanent solution would be best, a culvert large enough or some way to divert water. ?Pictures?
If public then maybe some arrangement with people on the other side? Park, boat across, then another vehicle to continue on. It could be as simple as parking one of your vehicles on someone's place the day before heavy rains are predicted.

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Discussion starter · #16 ·
That's what we do. Those of us with more than one car often take one 'out' to a neighbor's place and park it for the duration.

My house is on a hill 20-30 feet above the surrounding area. No chance for it to be affected by rising waters.

I'm over a mile down a county road from the main highway. The county road floods in about 4 places between me and the highway, each flooded point can be several hundred feet long with several hundred feet of dry road interspersed. Neither a land vehicle or water craft will cover both. I haven't found any kind of LT, GT, ATV or tractor that will run in the 3-4 feet of water that covers the flooded sections.

I keep 30 days or more of everything in hand at all times. I'm not at a point where I really need to get out, but I like to be prepared in case something comes up in future floods.

This time around, we may be 'in' for about three weeks before waters begin to fall.
 
Go to youtube and check out "Top Gear"'s clip on "Crossing The Channel in Car Boats". the Toyota should fit the bill. If it'll float long enough to cross the English channel you shouldn't have any trouble getting down the road a few hundred feet.
 
There use to be a company that had converted barges that an RV could be driven on to and locked down. The rear tires of the RV were used to power the barge. Maybe you could build something similar to mount a garden tractor on and use the tractor to pull it across the dry areas.
 
OK, so depending on what your looking for... if a rowboat size boat is fine, its not that hard. They make, or it can be easy to build, flip up wheels for the rear of the boat. They bolt to the transom, and flip down for transport, and up for water use. Pretty easy to add, buy, or build. now if you want it all on wheels, im thinking of a single flip up on the bow of the boat. I would have two wheels on it like front nose gear of a airplane. Now if you want them powerd... OK, a little harder, but I would make the front wheels pivot, with a tiller type steering gear on them. As for the rear wheels i would use some form if a chain drive to one, or bolth of the wheels, Mount a small gas engine in the boat, and run a belt drive to a jackshaft, with a chain sprocket. If you put the jackshaft inline with the wheel pivots, you will keep chain tension... if not, some form of a spring tensioner could be made..

OK... so thats my thoughts. Details to work out, but its a farly easy way to have a solid, safe hull, that can still be powered, or dragged over land easily.



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