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1985 LT 16 Drive Disc Chatter

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redhawk34@comcast.net

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
New, here, and hoping someone has encountered this before.
Tractor ran smooth, but there was drive slippage. I found the rubber "tire" on the Driven Disc (7010765) well chewed-up, and replaced it, and the paper thrust washer (7014523.)
The Tractor now pulls strong, but has a loud chatter in gear. The Driven Disc tire seems to be bouncing on the Drive Disk, and the entire Yoke assembly is vibrating about 3/8" front to rear.
I did not replace the Driven Disc Hub (7020911), as I hadn't realized that it contacted the Driven Disc internally. Should I have replaced it?
The Driven Disc, installed and in neutral, seems to have a lot of play, both radially and axially. (1/16" +)
It seems an odd way to make a drive, metal to metal, but it has worked for 25 years. I can't argue with that.
Is there anything else, obvious or otherwise, that I have missed?
Best Regards,
Redhawk
 
#2 ·
I have a smooth-start RER which uses a similar set-up, with the fiber disk between the plate and the driven disk. It also has a bit of play, and I think a tiny bit is normal. Check to make sure all the bushings are in place on the bar with the neutral shift detent in it. Then again, I'm much more versed in the RER than the LT series, though I have an LT12. I haven't needed to tear into it so at this point I haven't.

Oh, and :Welcome1:
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks, guys.
Cajun, I think you nailed it. One post, one Home Run. Congrats!
There was no sign of a liner when I took it apart, and my parts book doesn't mention it. Either the Dreaded Previous Owner put it together without one or it completely wore away.
The clutch makes sense now, that huge gap, and metal to metal contact just couldn't be right.
I see that the driven disc is available with the liner installed, and the liner is available separately. It's on order.
BTW, these people have treated me well on parts online. I have no connection;
http://www.rcpw.com/snapper-parts/
Thanks again
Redhawk
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Cajun,
Confirmed! I won't have the parts for a few days, so I made a liner out of a strip of 1/8" thick leather belt. (They don't make belts like they used to, I have several that have shrunk so much I can't wear them.)
Snapzilla now runs and shifts smooth as a gravy sandwich.
Thanks.
Redhawk
 
#7 · (Edited)
Hey Red,

When it was starting to go, did you loose drive in Reverse High first? Any chance you could send me a picture of the parts you replaced? I am pretty sure I am dealing with the same issue.

When you replaced these parts, was any dis-assembly required or did you take off the two access panels and work from there?

Thanks!!!
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Grid,
Hi reverse was the first to go. I have no pics, but if you pull the 2-bolt plate under the seat,and look straight down, you'll see a 6" wheel with a rubber tire which runs against a rotating steel plate. That wheel is the one you have to replace, as slipping will either be due to a worn "tire" or the internal lining. (#7053103)
http://www.rcpw.com/search?quest=7053103&search=Search
The wheel is held on by 4 bolts, a bit of a pain to access, but no big deal.
It comes with an internal lining.
You also need thrust washer # 7014523.
About a hour job, three beers.
Redhawk
 
#9 ·
Right on! THANK YOU! I know exactly what parts you are talking about and just hope that fixes it for me. One one of my mowers the tire is ALL messed up, and on the other I'm pretty sure it's the inner ring as the "tire" walks ALL over the place and I can VERY easily turn it by hand. It didn't look like too difficult of a job, but I bet I can put down three beers in the process. :) Thanks again!
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
That bloody tractor was designed by a Brit Railway engineer. "Ye yron is cheape, use ye plentye!"
The problem is getting a hand in there with a wrench, and a light, AND, still being able to see what you're doing. The trouble is, the wheel wants to turn when you try to break the bolts loose. Put the tractor in reverse gear, set the brake, and it may hold while you do it. If not, use half a spring closepin as a wedge between the tire and the steel driving plate, stick it down from the top.
I used an air ratchet, helps a lot, but a box-end ratchet should work fine.
Be sure to review your list of four-letter words before starting out, you may need them.
I sometimes build a small fire in front of the machine, toss in some chicken guts and walk around it, intoning;
"Collet of an inlet valve,
In the crankcase boil and bake.
Oil of castor, pin of gudgeon,
Help to fix this foul curmudgeon!"
Best,
Redhawk
 
#11 · (Edited)
I ordered the part about a week ago and it was sitting in my garage waiting for me to find time in my one non-functional mower when the drive disk went out on my "working" mower last night. the rubber wheel completely disintegrated and the metal wheel was rubbing on the drive plate.

Re-reading this post, I didn't order the thrust washer so the disk for the broken motor and 2 thrust washers are being ordered in the next couple days.

I'm pretty thankful that I had a new part laying around. :)

Is there a trick to tightening those 4 bolts that keep the plate over the wheel?
 
#12 · (Edited)
Snapper had a kinda cheesy thin metal 'strap' which held the driven disc from turning when assembling/disassembling the plate retaining hardware. A long stiff square shafted screwdriver functions admirably as a substitute. You just position the screwdriver between two of the nuts & use it as a lever to keep the disc from rotating as you work on the other two nuts & then reverse the positions to do the last two. If you run across the Snapper tool, it will embarrass you to buy it.
 
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