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71 Ford 3000 - Hydraulic Problems

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
souNdguy said:
a piece of 2x4 and a bottle jack.. wedge the 2x4 under an upper lift arm then jack up.. almost always breaks em loose even if you have to let her set a minute.

soundguy
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Thanks. That is what I was planning on trying. Just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something that needed to be removed or if there was something internally that was not releasing.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I got the cover off and have a few questions.

1. The hydraulic return tube seems to have broken off from its mounting tab. I am not sure if this happened while disassembly or if this is part of the problem. Assuming it did not just break, what are the chances this is the cause of the erratic, slow jerky, 3 pt operation? The New Holland place that did look at the tractor said it was only measuring 100 or so PSI from the pump. I don't know how they tested it though.

2. There is a small tube which runs towards the bottom of the sump. It is not connected to anything. What is this?

3. How do I remove the suction filter? I have disconnected the mounting bracket for it and I can pull the tube free from the sump's side wall, but the PTO shaft (or something) runs over it... Do I have to pull this shaft? Is there an easier way to do this? The filter doesn't look too bad... Should I even mess wih it?

Thanks for all the help.

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#23 ·
jascott,

My GUESS is that the suction screen is plugged. If the pump has been running for a long period of time with little or no fluid, it may be damaged as well.

If you can rotate the suction screen/tube to get the mounting bracket to clear, you may be able to pull the suction tube out ??? Otherwise, you'll have to pull the shaft ???
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
sixbales said:
jascott,

My GUESS is that the suction screen is plugged. If the pump has been running for a long period of time with little or no fluid, it may be damaged as well.

If you can rotate the suction screen/tube to get the mounting bracket to clear, you may be able to pull the suction tube out ??? Otherwise, you'll have to pull the shaft ???
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I did pull the PTO shaft and PTO engagement fork out last night and was able to finally get the suction tube and filter/screen out. I didn't really look at it all that closely last night though. I am going to replace it and replace the missing o-ring on the suction tube. I probably won't have it all back together for another week by the time the parts show up and I get time to work on it. Hopefully the pump will still be good???
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Its mostly back together, but I was able to run it and check for operation. The 3pt now raises smoothly and quickly!

I replaced the suction and return filters, a few other small broken parts, and installed new orings. I didn't mess with the relief valves, or anything else. I did bleed the system at the pump. I did make a "bracket" to hold the return tube in place. I bought an aftermarket "tube", but it didn't fit right. The New Holland part was over $200.

Couple of points for others...
-Use a 2x4 and floor jack under the lift arms to break the lift cover free from the sump.
-You must remove the PTO shaft and PTO shift fork to get the suction filter out.
-Check all the o-rings. I had several missing, and I don't think this tractor has ever been opened up like the before.

The Hydraulic pump seems to be OK. The dealer said it was bad, but I think all these other issues caused it to not build pressure. Time will tell.

Thanks for all the help!

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#30 ·
jascott said:
where is a good place to buy a guage for this?

Any chance of damage to anything if the relief valve doesn't work?
Click to expand...
Any chance? sure. there's a chance involved in every decision you make in life.. since pressure won't drop or level off till the relief cracks, the system should be able to hold pressure up to the relief pressure.. if you see pressure build past relief.. then just let off of her.

might try a hyds shop.. or palce that sells hyd fittings ( tsc, napa, etc.. )

soundguy
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
I have not gotten around to picking up a pressure gauge, and I suspect that the pressure is probably not at it's full rated output. With that said, it does raise the arms without issue at this point. At idle speed, it will raise them fully in about 4 seconds. At 1800 rpm, it will raise them in about 3 seconds. All of this is with no load.

I did hook up a 6.5' disk harrow yesterday and it raises it with ease. I didn't time them lift, but I would guess it's about the same as with no load.

If we do run into more problems, I'll probably rebuild the pump. However, it is working now, and I've got lots of catch up work to get done over the next few weeks.
 
#33 ·
Regarding Hydraulics not lifting, I have had this problem right from the time my 3000 was on warranty in the 1960’s. The dealer never solved the problem. The symptoms were that it would lift sometimes and sometimes not, it was also jerky. There were periods when it would work normally. Temperature seemed to not affect whether it worked or not. I suspected what I called the floating valve, repair manual refers to it as the unload valve. This valve is only activated by oil pressure on either side of it. So I made up a manual “pusher” for this valve that can be operated from the drivers seat. So now every time it doesn’t lift I push my manual lever that I made up and that makes it lift every time.

You may have to blow a string through the tubing. Then tie it to the very end of the 1/16” cable to pull it around the bend. The cable needs to be extra long to assemble the top cover housing. The ½” inch nipple rotates in 3/4” nipple when operating the lever. Fine tune your cable length with a cable clamp inside the dust cover and coil up excess cable length.

Also be sure to check that the hydraulic pump is bolted tightly to the gear housing it doesn’t suck air into the system.
 

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Discussion starter · #34 ·
I'm back at it again. I had things working more or less, but now have no lift at all. (load or no load)

I have new fluid and a clean filter/strainer. I have installed a rebuild kit for the hydraulic pump and get good fluid flow from the bleeder screw on the pump. I picked up a pressure guage from Northern Tool and have tested it plugged into the hydraulic pump (where the bleeder screw goes) and on the test port on the option plate. It does not register any pressure at all. Is it possible for the pump to flow plenty of volume but not build any pressure? The pistons looked ok in the pump, but there are some "pins" listed on the CNH parts page which were not in the pump when I took it apart. I didn't buy any and put in either??? They are listed as straight 3/16"x11/32" pin (359047s) and groove pin 3/16"x.88 (379260s).

I am getting some fluid seeping between the lift cover and the sump, so I need to pull the lift cover again and see where the leak is coming from.

I don't mind buying a new pump if needed, but I'm just not convinced the pump is bad yet.

Any directions on what else to test?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Nevermind! I got it working... I pulled the lift cover (again) and found that I installed the lift cylinder linkage improperly when I put the cover on last time. I fixed that and it works very well now.

For those interested in fixing up their hydraulic pump... I bought a rebuild kit for about $80 and put it in the pump. It was not all that hard and the pump did pick up some pressure. I'm sure the pump is not 100%, but it is much better than before.

Thanks for all the help.

Jim
 
#37 ·
when you tested it did you remember to CHAIN the lift arms to the axle like i mentioned a couple pages back?

if not, then the hyds unload and you don't get more than 28-40 psi back pressure that is needed to keep the unloader valve 'alive'.

ie.. put gauge in, chain arms down, run lift lever up.

post back.

soundguy
 
#38 ·
Hi, just going through the same process here, and have a couple of questions

1. the O-ring was missing from my suction tube, I bought one .921" ID x .139" Thk per the manual, but this only seals the tube to the housing, what seals the threaded 90 degree adaptor to the tube? shouldn't there be a seal between the threaded adaptor and the housing?

2. How can I check the unloader valve, without removing it?, I don't have the tools to get it out. should I be able to push it back and forth from either end?
 
#39 · (Edited)
From looking at your photos it appears that your return line broke in the same place that mine did. Also noted from your post that "I did make a "bracket" to hold the return tube in place. I bought an aftermarket "tube", but it didn't fit right." I likewise bought an aftermarket tube that didn't fit up into the bottom of the casting (opposite end from the filter).

How did you repair the line? Did you weld the bracket back to the line? Did you have to replace the spring shown in the picture and if so do your recall where you got this part or how long it was? Where did you get the replacement filters that you said you installed?

Thank you,
Simon
 
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