Not sure there is such a thing, but the last time I hooked up, all the lights worked till I got to my destination, found the R turn signal out. The bulb is good, but fits loose in the socket. I needed a way to check the lights without having to bring the truck over and hook-up. I have a good spare GT battery, so I made this adapter (fused) so I can connect to each lamp at the connector so I can try and tighten up the bulb sockets. So far this is un-tested (watching the race) but I'll give it a try later today. What do you think?
Trailer Light Tester
larrybl
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Not sure there is such a thing, but the last time I hooked up, all the lights worked till I got to my destination, found the R turn signal out. The bulb is good, but fits loose in the socket. I needed a way to check the lights without having to bring the truck over and hook-up. I have a good spare GT battery, so I made this adapter (fused) so I can connect to each lamp at the connector so I can try and tighten up the bulb sockets. So far this is un-tested (watching the race) but I'll give it a try later today. What do you think?
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Very cool. Simple is good.
I have enough (two) trailers (more accurately, potential light failures) to almost justify building a test jig. I think someone here has something similar to what I have in mind. Basically, a mini switch panel (mimic the dash controls), input comes from a portable battery pack (or tractor battery), output end is a trailer connector.
But, it's usually easy enough to just back the truck up to the trailer, so I haven't prioritized this project.
Mike
I have enough (two) trailers (more accurately, potential light failures) to almost justify building a test jig. I think someone here has something similar to what I have in mind. Basically, a mini switch panel (mimic the dash controls), input comes from a portable battery pack (or tractor battery), output end is a trailer connector.
But, it's usually easy enough to just back the truck up to the trailer, so I haven't prioritized this project.
Mike
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I have a tester for the truck connector. I just wanted something simple to check the trailer lights before I hook up. When I pulled the lens off the taillight on the trailer the bulb was real loose in the socket. Tapping on the light housing would usually fix it. I want to pry / squeeze the trailer sockets to make the bulbs fit tighter and a way to test my fixes. I don't use the trailer enough to warrant LEDS "yet".
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Quick check with the tester, L Brake out. Bad bulb. Cleaned the white crud off the bottom contacts and pried them up a bit and replaced the bulb. Good to go on the L side. R Tail light out. Bulb is good, cleaned the white crud off the bottom contacts and pried them up a bit All is good now! I'll need to do this prior to next October show. This also helps to make sure the bulbs are orientated correctly.
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Back a few years ago I was a mechanic for a landscaping company that had a dozen one-ton trucks and at least a half dozen trailers. Somewhere in the history of the company they had started using 7-pin connectors for trailers. The round pin type, not the more common flat RV type. There was not too many days when something didn't have a wiring or lights out issue. I built a "truck in a box" to allow me to work on trailers without tying up a truck. It had the ability to power up any circuit the truck could, including the electric brakes. I used a garden tractor battery to power it all.
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Larry, what you just went through is the whole reason I finally broke down and converted to LED (that, and the prices finally came down a few years ago). I got tired of having to deal with sloppy connectors, and corroding components.
kklowell, what you're describing is what I'd imagined in my post above. Did you guys make your own?
I see that they're available commercially, but WOW that's a LOT more money than I'd ever spend. I'm thinking $15-20 in parts at Home Depot, and you're done...
https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-P...WMUS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508117137&sr=8-3&keywords=trailer+light+tester+box
Mike
kklowell, what you're describing is what I'd imagined in my post above. Did you guys make your own?
I see that they're available commercially, but WOW that's a LOT more money than I'd ever spend. I'm thinking $15-20 in parts at Home Depot, and you're done...
https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-P...WMUS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508117137&sr=8-3&keywords=trailer+light+tester+box
Mike
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The trailer only gets used 2-3 times a year if that. I just wanted a way to test the lights (while loading up) to make sure they worked, and to fix them if needed. Burnt bulb, and corroded contacts seemed to be the culprits this time. I'll think of a LED conversion when I get tired of fixing these.
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I swear trailer lighting knows when it isn't being used, seems to act up even more then, LOL...
Mike
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I have a friend that used to work for a Mack/Volvo dealership. He worked on alot of trailers and got tired of fighting to use the shop truck to test the lights. SO he made his own test cart. I have been wanting to make something similar, but not quite as large. He got a shopping cart, truck battery, plug ends (he used 7 round, 7 flat and 6 round plugs) a few switches and a turn signal switch of a junk truck. All he had to do was roll the cart to the trailer, hook up and start hitting switches. Wish I had a picture of it.
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Son has a biz that does a lot of trailer work, gets a couple horse trailers a week plus landscapers, homeowners etc. He has a two piece kit, came with this biz when he bought it 10 yrs ago. Like a big briefcase, one side is for testing trailers, the other does the vehicle. As a one person shop it makes it much easier to troubleshoot. Don't need someone inside to push brake, turn signal.
MikeC
MikeC
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There's a bunch of DIY setups on YouTube, and the commercial ones like the one I linked above; but they're all based on a 12-volt battery (minimum of tractor size).
I can't believe no one has figured out how to make these as a commercial unit, but small (handheld) and cheap (under $40-50, ideally under $20). I think that's a huge market potential.
Mike
I can't believe no one has figured out how to make these as a commercial unit, but small (handheld) and cheap (under $40-50, ideally under $20). I think that's a huge market potential.
Mike
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