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Dennis OH

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
so i finally graduated to a bigger tractor and bought a 65 3000 gas, it has been completely redone but the guy never cleaned the gas tank. after getting it all flushed out and back together it will not start it tries but no go. pulled the plugs and have excellent spark, now the wierd part if i leave a plug out it will fire and run does not matter which plug and as soon as i put it back in it will not fire up. what am i missing or doing wrong all help is greatly appreciated thanks dennis
 
Make sure it's electrically timed right, if it is and as you say your getting good spark, then make sure it's getting the proper amount of gas, could be plugged jet or wrong float setting in the carb. If those two areas are covered then we have to figure out what do you mean by the engine has been completely redone? Was the head pulled? If so, was it torqued down to the right settings? How's the compression? Were the valves replaced? if so, are they adjusted properly? If the cam was removed, was it timed right for valve timing? Method of elimination is the best I can do. Hard for anyone to say what's wrong without looking at the tractor.
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You say you can pull one plug (any plug) and it will start right up and run?? What does pulling a plug do for you??

It allows the starter to crank faster through the compression stroke for that one cylinder?? Have you observed this to be true?? Maybe it's not cranking fast enough with all plugs in place??

Is the battery good? Or is it old? Maybe replace the battery?? I would clean all battery and starter connections, including ground connections. Ground connections are often the most troublesome to get a good circuit from the battery to the starter. The starter gets its ground connection where it mounts to the engine - check that the mounting faces are clean.

If that doesn't help, pull the starter and clean it up inside and out. Clean the carbon out internally and clean the armature segments lightly with fine emery paper. Change the brushes if necessary, Clean the faces where it mounts to the engine to ensure a good ground.

JohnW can help with reassembling the brushes in the starter
 
I agree.. do check the cables and bat connections.

also.. unless it has been changed, that machine has a holley carb.. they are a beast to rebuild.. and if they get dirty.. they haunt you.. any peopl ebite the bullet and switch to a zenith.. less fuel economy.. and a bit pricey.. but they run and can be rebuilt with average carb rebuilding skills.

soundguy


You say you can pull one plug (any plug) and it will start right up and run?? What does pulling a plug do for you??

It allows the starter to crank faster through the compression stroke for that one cylinder?? Have you observed this to be true?? Maybe it's not cranking fast enough with all plugs in place??

Is the battery good? Or is it old? Maybe replace the battery?? I would clean all battery and starter connections, including ground connections. Ground connections are often the most troublesome to get a good circuit from the battery to the starter. The starter gets its ground connection where it mounts to the engine - check that the mounting faces are clean.

If that doesn't help, pull the starter and clean it up inside and out. Clean the carbon out internally and clean the armature segments lightly with fine emery paper. Change the brushes if necessary, Clean the faces where it mounts to the engine to ensure a good ground.

JohnW can help with reassembling the brushes in the starter
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
ok i got it running the float was stuck but does not make sense it was not flooding out


Make sure it's electrically timed right, if it is and as you say your getting good spark, then make sure it's getting the proper amount of gas, could be plugged jet or wrong float setting in the carb. If those two areas are covered then we have to figure out what do you mean by the engine has been completely redone? Was the head pulled? If so, was it torqued down to the right settings? How's the compression? Were the valves replaced? if so, are they adjusted properly? If the cam was removed, was it timed right for valve timing? Method of elimination is the best I can do. Hard for anyone to say what's wrong without looking at the tractor.
Image
this is a brand new motor from the top of the muffler down to the clutch everything has been replaced. as well as all 4 tires, lights, steering wheel and seat. with reciepts for everything that was replaced. but he made a big mistake in not cleaning out the tank as it was filthy, dont think he replaced the hydraulic filters tho as it is slower than my 9n.

and what does pulling the plugs do for me is create more work i did not want or expect to do just kidding. i do appreciate all the help and responses you guys gave me. least now i can get back to playing thanks again dennis
 
pulled the plugs and have excellent spark, now the wierd part if i leave a plug out it will fire and run does not matter which plug and as soon as i put it back in it will not fire up. what am i missing or doing wrong all help is greatly appreciated thanks dennis
Depends on exactly how you were doing it. Pulling plugs out and cranking can make the coil spike to an unusually high voltage and fire fould spark plugs. Sounds to me that you just gas fouled the plugs. Takes 15,000 volts to fire plugs dry (if gapped properly) and can take 30,000 volts to fire then when fouled -which is the top limit of most standard coils.

It's an old trick that when you have on cylinder not firing (because it's fouled), you just pull the plug wire off and hold a short distance from the plug terminal - and often it will then begin to fire due to the voltage spike.

With your tractor, I don't know all the details off hand on exactly how it's wired. Older (USA) four-cylinder 4000s have a resistor that can heat up and also add to problems trying to start with gas-fouled plugs. I put a jumper across mine if it gets fouled. 3000 is British design and I'm not sure about how it's wired.
 
resistor wire and 6v coil..

soundguy

With your tractor, I don't know all the details off hand on exactly how it's wired. Older (USA) four-cylinder 4000s have a resistor that can heat up and also add to problems trying to start with gas-fouled plugs. I put a jumper across mine if it gets fouled. 3000 is British design and I'm not sure about how it's wired.
 
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