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Discussion Starter #1
I just acquired a Z445 z-turn mower. It will not start with the ignition switch. I can jump across the solenoid to start it, but as soon as I move the control handles out of the neutral position it will cut off. I have replaced the ignition switch and tested the seat switch (which tested good with a meter and physically). The PTO will engage, and I hear a clicking near the carburetor area when I turn the key to the on position. Any ideas? I do not have any manuals for this mower.
 

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Looks like there are two other switches.

The fact that it runs, means that the run circuit on the key switch is working. The fact that it doesn't start, doesn't narrow it down too much. Clearly, the starter itself works. But, either the solenoid is not working or it is not getting power. If you hear clicking from the carburetor, that probably means the fuel shutoff solenoid is working. You need to check if the solenoid is getting power from the key switch/module when the key is turned to start. My guess is that it is not.

There are typically the following switches that have to say it is okay to start:
  1. Seat switch, someone is in the seat.
  2. Parking brake is set
  3. Transmission in neutral
  4. PTO is off
Since yours is dying when you move the control handle (switch #3), it sounds like it thinks no one is in the seat. The seat switch might be fine, but is the wiring?

Looking at the Deere site, it appears there are quite a few variations on wiring. A schematic for the particular one for you SN will make it easier to figure out what is wrong. The other choice is to shotgun replace the switches and relays that could be causing the problem. That is probably more expensive than getting the schematic/service manual for you machine.

You should be able to check if the solenoid works or not, but it probably is working, just not getting power due to wiring harness or switch or relay not working correctly.
 

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Does this model require an occupant in the operator's station to start it?...or just to prevent it from cutting out when pto is engaged, or taken out of neutral?...I get that it won't start with the ignition switch...but what does happen when the key is turned to "start"....nothing at all?...other than the carb solenoid and the PTO when you engage it?...For the purpose of elimination get it started...then release the brake...what happens at that point?...I think nothing.... which supports the possibility that Frogmore presents...I would try to trace the wire to the seat switch and see if it has gotten caught somewhere and gotten bare causing it to short out
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your replies. I’m starting at square 1 again. I have 12.5 volts on the wires coming to the seat switch. I actually jumpered the plug and that made no difference. I’ll start digging deeper into the wiring and see what I can find. Mark, when I started it and released the parking brake it did keep running. I am probably way overthinking this. Thanks again for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Today I found some corroded connections and cleaned them up. All the safety systems are working properly. The issues now are still won’t start with the key switch which is probably the solenoid, and the right side drive won’t work. I closed the valve, but it doesn’t seem to seat all the way. Left side is fine. Thanks for the ideas to get me here.
 

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Today I found some corroded connections and cleaned them up. All the safety systems are working properly. The issues now are still won’t start with the key switch which is probably the solenoid, and the right side drive won’t work. I closed the valve, but it doesn’t seem to seat all the way. Left side is fine. Thanks for the ideas to get me here.
Did you check the voltage at the starter solenoid, both large red lead and the solenoid wire?

- The large lead should be at 12.8 VDC all the time (I believe). If not, there’s a fuse or fusible link.

- The solenoid lead should be 12.8 VDC when the key is in the start position. If it is, the solenoid may not be grounded or bad. Try grounding it to the engine block.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did you check the voltage at the starter solenoid, both large red lead and the solenoid wire?

- The large lead should be at 12.8 VDC all the time (I believe). If not, there’s a fuse or fusible link.

- The solenoid lead should be 12.8 VDC when the key is in the start position. If it is, the solenoid may not be grounded or bad. Try grounding it to the engine block.
Thanks. I’m thinking it is the solenoid. When the key is in the start position, I have 12 volts on the smaller purple and green wires on the solenoid. I’ll run to the JD dealer tomorrow and pick one up. Maybe one of the guys there can help me with the right side drive problem. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The solenoid fixed the key start issue. All that I have left is the right side issue. I have tried to bleed air out of the system (per the JD service manager) but it hasn’t helped. Anyone ever had this happen?
 

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Welcome aboard. 🍻

I moved this into the ZTR forum for you, might get more action in here.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I finally got the right side hydraulics to work. The bypass was not closing all the way. I backed it all the way out, turned it back in, and it felt like it seated much better. I backed it back out again, moved the right control all the way forward, closed the valve and moved the control back to neutral. The right side is now working again. A few small adjustments and I should be good. Thanks for your help!
 
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