[rc-jACK]

dmorrill22, how did you wire that alternator?

Bob

 

[Boyd]

If its a one wire alternator,,, the quality of the ground and wire is critical as the regulator uses those to check its own voltage.

 

[rc-jACK]

If its a one wire alternator,,, the quality of the ground and wire is critical as the regulator uses those to check its own voltage.

"the quality of the ground and wire is critical......"

What did you mean by that?

 

[nkaust]

not just that but from the way the blades look rotation looks right also

 

[Boyd]

"the quality of the ground and wire is critical......"

What did you mean by that?

A one wire alternator uses its simple circuit of ground and positive to check its own voltage. If the connections are bad it won't be able to correctly regulate its own voltage and can but itself up.

 

[TAHOE99]

What alternator are you planning on using? GM had a single wire alternator, later 3 wire, then the newer styles had like 4-5 wires.
I used a 3 wire off a late 70's/early 80's camaro and have it charging the battery in my Sears 16.
The main post coming off back goes directly to battery, then the other two both go back to battery also, but one needs to be on a switched 12V to "excite" alternator the other can be on battery. I had mine backwards for the longest time and it would drain battery after sitting and it wouldn't charge. Once I switched, it charges really great but for some reason I get over charging and battery spits out fluid, maybe my battery is too small to handle alternator or it's not regulating properly. I also have one on a switch so I can turn it on/off if needed.

 

[Donewrken]

Once I switched, it charges really great but for some reason I get over charging and battery spits out fluid

Easy way -add a bulb.

3 wires one BAT, one field and one sensing. The field wire goes to the "idiot light" and then to the 'RUN' position of the ignition switch. The sensing wire either goes to the 'BAT' side of the ignition switch or the 'RUN' side depending on the application. When the ignition is in the run position the sensing terminal is energized with battery voltage and the field terminal is energized with a current limited voltage through the lamp. When the alternator starts charging, the field voltage raises and the voltage differential across the lamp reduces and the lamp goes out. The charging voltage is 'sensed' through the sensing wire and the internal voltage regulator regulates the voltage to about 14 volts.


one wire link to web page


:dunno:


Donewrken


:fing32:

 

[dmorrill22]

Bob,

I wired the alternator according to the diagram below. I bought a 3-wire GM alternator so that I could use a dummy light to indicated whether or not the unit was charging.




Essentially, the #1 terminal on the alternator goes to the indicator light. The indicator light is then connected to the accessory feed on the ignition switch (or any switched positive terminal).

 

[Boyd]

A one wire alternator uses its simple circuit of ground and positive to check its own voltage. If the connections are bad it won't be able to correctly regulate its own voltage and can but itself up.

Last part miss-spelled,,, If the connections are bad it won't be able to correctly regulate its own voltage and can "burn" itself up.

 

[Alberta 7.3]

Would be a good idea to have an inexpensive automotive volt gauge to monitor the system as well. If the tractor originally had a dash ammeter, install the volt gauge in the same hole.

 

[TAHOE99]

Easy way -add a bulb.

3 wires one BAT, one field and one sensing. The field wire goes to the "idiot light" and then to the 'RUN' position of the ignition switch. The sensing wire either goes to the 'BAT' side of the ignition switch or the 'RUN' side depending on the application. When the ignition is in the run position the sensing terminal is energized with battery voltage and the field terminal is energized with a current limited voltage through the lamp. When the alternator starts charging, the field voltage raises and the voltage differential across the lamp reduces and the lamp goes out. The charging voltage is 'sensed' through the sensing wire and the internal voltage regulator regulates the voltage to about 14 volts.


one wire link to web page


:dunno:


Donewrken


:fing32:

I actually had it wired like the picture above in Dmorrill's post, but it kept running the battery down, guess the field needed to be on switched circuit . I also used a lighted switch but either not enough draw or it's in the sensing circuit so no draw. I have taken it off now so when I re-install, I will wire it correctly putting both field and sensing circuit through switched circuits. I finally got a good factory regulator, so no need for it right now and needed to remove it anyway to be able to use mowing deck.

 

[rc-jACK]

You ROCK!

 

[billfosburgh]

i have a 424 IH i want to replace the gen, with this system will this diagram work for that