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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I seem to have read somewhere that if you have pressure coming out of where the dip stick goes that you have ring blow by. When you remove the dip stick while the engine is running you should have no pressure coming from this opening, is this true. How much is too much? I have noticed that when I put the tractor under a load quickly there will be a puff of blue smoke come out. When should one consider doing a over haul, I am new to diesel machines. Also is there matching numbers on Yanmars to check to see if the motor matches the rest of the tractor or that it is a bundled together mixture of parts type of tractor? Sorry for all the questions but I know very little about these tractors and I know on this site there are some very knowledgeable people. And thanks for your help.
 

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The puff of blue smoke upon loading the tractor is OK. Just a trait of a diesel engine. I'm attaching a vidio of excessive blowby on a John Deere. You have a vent tube similiar to this. If you look under Mark's 2nd thread here under Domestic and Grey market Yanmar list he has engine #s matched with tractor model #s. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sX_G5Rh1K3g
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Winston for the information. I looked at the list and my YM2000 has a 2TR20A motor which means it is not the motor for the Tractor because mine is a two wheel drive I may have one of those dreaded multiple put to geathers that I have been reading about. Sure wished I had knew this site exsisted before I went Tractor shopping. I have not looked close yet but I don't recall a vent on the out side of the motor. I do get pressure out of the cap when I remove the dip stick, should there be pressure coming out of there?
 

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It would not be abnormal for a little blow out the cap but not heavy. You should have a vent tube somewhere. Somebody with a 2000 speak up. Please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I didn't miss read the list for motor numbers on this site the 2TR20A is on a 4WD tractor and my tractor is only a 2WD. did I read the list wrong? Thanks for everyones help cause I need all I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
YM2000-------------22-------2WD-GEAR------------2------------1670--------75-77------------2TR20
YM2000BD-----------22------4WD-GEAR-------------2------------1940---------79.-------------2TR20A
YM2002D------------22------4WD-GEAR-------------3------------2314--------82-83------------3T80U-NAP
In the sticky note is where I got the idea that I had the wrong motor, Well that eases my mind some what, is there any matching numbers like S/N that would give a clue as this is all the same tractor that was manfactured as is. Thanks Mark for your help.
 

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The list you're quoting from is as accurate as I could make it. Most entries are from owners and dealers that helped me out some time ago.

Serial numbers are a complete mystery to most of us and the I.D. tag (on the valve cover usually) indicates HP, cylinder bore size and maximum operating RPM range. Years of manufacture and model differences are really indicated by the few experts over here (in the U.S.) Like LENS12 :fing32:, who is a long time dealer up in Dixon, IL.

Re. your original post, It's been my experience with every Japanese tractor I've worked on that there is always some pressure in the crankcase. The piston ring gap, although staggered evenly around the piston and in relation to the cylinder walls, still allows some compression to escape the combustion chamber and end up in the lower end. Constant Blow by however, is when it's excessive and at normal engine temperatures that indicate cylinder and ring wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Mark777, I am greatful for any type of list, it is better than none at all, so if I understand you correctly there really isn't a way to tell if you have a Yanmar tractor that has been put together from 3 or four tractors by comparing numbers that are on the tractor. There are numbers stamped in places and numbers pertruding from the cast but I don't know how to make any sense out of them. I bought this tractor from a Dealer it is suppose to be refurbished but a lot of little things have went wrong so far all has been covered by the warranty (1 year) the head gasket, leaking 3 point hitch leaking seals, a new solenoid on starter and safety starter switch, the starter switch. I have read a lot of horror stories after I purchased the tractor. I read a note on this fourm about one way to check a engine for needing repair is to remove the cap and if pressure is coming out you know you have piston blow by. I guess it is a little late to worry about my purchase now. It is what it is. If I had done my home work and found this site before i made a purchase i would be well equiped before hand. Thanks to everyone for your kind help.
 
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