[Danmon]

Well I guess I have gotten myself into a quite a project. I recently purchaced this Beauty......$850

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e1140...tem=250910185384&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:1123

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250910185384&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:1123

So the first order of business will be getting the engine squared away. As per the seller, the engine is showing low compression. He was planning to simply lightly hone the cylinders (he inspected the cylinders and said they are still very smooth), replace the rings, put the head back on and go (he said the head looks good).

I am probably going to take the head in and get it resurfaced and have the valves tested as well. While I'm in there i will clean the oil pickup and maybe test or replace the oil pump.


I would appreciate any advice on whether or not this is a good game plan (can you detach the rods and push the pistons out the top by dropping the oil pan or will I have to disassemble the whole engine?) what other work should be done while i'm in there.

The good news is I've got a big barn and all winter to get her running. I bought the I&T manual today. I will pick up the tractor soon.


Thanks all.

Daniel Franke

 

[winston]

Looks like you got a good deal. A little work and you ought to have a good one. Yes, you can drop the pan and pull the pistons. You probably know the engine has sleeves. I would use micrometers on old sleeves and replace if much wear. That would set you back about $300 for new sleeves. Rod bearings are only $15 a set. I would spend the $30 and put new ones in. The tractor probably needs the transmission fluid changed, and screen cleaned. I would drain a little oil out of the 4 wheel drive just to see what is there. Be looking for water or milky looking oil. Any thing like that shows up you will want to change that also. Best of luck to you.

 

[BruceR]

Welcome aboard Daniel,
I was watching that one myself. I have some original shop manuals for the YM240. I can usually come up with some scans if given a few days. I think I have some wrist pins and fuses left also.
Keep us posted,
Bruce

 

[Danmon]

Thanks for the replies.

Winston,

I appreciate the input. I didn't know if it had sleeves or not. I will measure the cylinders and check for wear. I have a regular digital caliper but I don't know if that will reach down very far into the cylinder. I suppose those specs will be in the I&T manual...? I will go ahead and replace the rod bearings. sounds like a money well spent.

Bruce,
You were interested in it to eh? I hope I needed it worse than you did. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Daniel Franke

 

[winston]

You need some telescoping gauges like these because cylinder wear can vary from top to bottom. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-telescoping-gauge-set-5649.html I would think specifications should be in the manual.

 

[284 International]

My I&T service manual says the wear limit on the YM240 sleeves is 90.20mm (3.5512 inches), with new being 90.000-90.035mm (3.5433-3.5447 inches). The wear limit for clearance on the piston skirt to the liner is 0.3mm (0.0118 inches). Ring gaps are desired 0.3-0.5mm (0.0031-0.0045 inches) and the wear limit is 1.5mm (0.0591 inches). All of the other data you need to rebuild the engine is there. It's a pretty good book, and has procedures for the YM 135, 155, 195, 240, and 330 series of tractors.

Edited to add: I expect Little Miami Tractor Company has service manuals in stock. Wayne is good to deal with, and is careful to make sure you get exactly what you need.

 

[Danmon]

So the project is going pretty well so far. the new rings are in and the head is torqued down to 130ft/lbs. unfortunately I have misplaced the manual in the middle of the job. I m in need of info on valve clearance. I found .006 inches online . but I am curious if the intake and exhaust are the same clearance. I went ahead and painted the whole tractor to give it a little character. New belt, battery, filters. I cant wait to fire it up. keeping my fingers crossed. I could use an engine schematic and wiring diagram until I can get another manual.
Thanks, Dan

 

[Danmon]

2tr20ax

 

[mark777]

Danmon,

Glad to hear your back on the build :fing32:

As far as I know, every single Yanmar diesel I've worked on has a valve setting of .006 (cold, intake and exhaust).

Love to see pictures of the old girl when you get the chance

 

[Danmon]

Found the manual....now I just need some luck.

 

[Danmon]

I need help routing the oil line that comes up at the rear of the engine. I didn't ever see the engine all together so I cant figure where it connects into the top of the engine. is it supposed to oil the lifters? Picture of the oil and fuel lines of someon2tr20ax would be awesome. thanks all.

 

[winston]

Will this help? http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=HTE&Category_Code=YM2000OIL http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=HTE&Category_Code=YM2000FUELSYS

 

[Danmon]

Thanks winston.That may help a little. but still don't know exactly where those top two banjo bolts (oil lines) tie in. do they connect to the side of the head? Also, where does the fuel bleed off line drain to? Thanks again

 

[winston]

My 3 cylinder 2002 is different from yours so I really don't know. One banjo connection on mine goes on the right hand side of the head on the firewall end. Just looking at the parts drawing of yours it would seem both of yours should go to the head. Are there openings on the head on both ends?

Don't know about the fuel bleed off line on the 2000 either. If you are talking about the line coming off the top of the injectors that one goes through my thermostart reservoir and then to the neck of the fuel tank.

 

[Danmon]

Thanks Winston . thats what I was thinking too. ill head over to the shop and check it out. if I can get this part, it will be ready to turn over. ill let you know and maybe get some pics.

 

[284 International]

It's probably too late to be of use, but the single fitting of the oil line attaches to the block underneath the starter, just aft of the data plate. The dual fittings are on the other side, up on the head. One goes between the exhaust collector manifold, the other is aft of the rear collector.

On my YM240/YM2000 machines, the fuel return is as Winston said. The injectors are connected in series to either the fuel tank neck, just below the cap, or the Thermostart bottle in series to the fuel tank.

 

[Danmon]

I did find the bolt holes for the banjo fittings on the right side of the tractor for the oil line. thanks for all the replies. I had checked those out but thought they were solid. I guess there is a passage way there to oil the lifters and such. I was able to fire the tractor up using starter fluid.:dancingpa..

It sounded Great.......That is if you think these two cylinders sound great. Which I do since I have just spent my entire holiday annual leave on this lady.

However there is still work to do. It would not stay running without the starter fluid. I traced it down to no fuel getting supplied. It seems like there is a blockage somewhere at the filter/filter housing. I am changing the filter and blow out the filter housing today and will try again .

 

[winston]

Your probably going through this http://www.hoyetractor.com/bleed.htm procedure. It is very important. Be careful with the starting fluid, you can bust piston lands if you get a little heavy with it.

 

[284 International]

Make sure the tank isn't blocked at it's outlet too. And, as Winston said, be really careful with the starter fluid. You shouldn't need it once everything is bled, especially if you do the injector lines too.

 

[Danmon]

I have gotten the fuel and oil lines straightened out.... Now I am having trouble with the injection pump. I have not gotten the pump to pump fuel yet. The pump is getting fuel and I have bled the system to the bleed screw on the pump. When the outlet lines of the pump are removed and the starter is turning the engine over, there are occasional small squirts of fuel. but It will not pump with any force or volume. When I replace the injector lines at the pump but crack them at the injectors, still nothing...occasional squirts.

I spoke with the guys at Hoye and read this:

http://www.hoyetractor.com/bleed.htm

And This:

http://www.hoyetractor.com/support/knowledgebase.php?article=12

My questions:
Is the pump supposed to spray fuel out or just small squirts?

I have tried tapping on the pump while it is turning over but no change yet.

I haven't tried to start the tractor while sitting on the seat. is there a safety switch that cuts off the fuel?

I don't want to go buy a new pump.:i_praying....Any Ideas?

Daniel