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Discussion Starter #1
first post in the Yanmar section of the forum!
im a university student in canada looking to get a tractor to make some money and to help the parents out with gardening snow removal etc.

I realy like the case ingersoll tractors and I know they would fit my needs.
recently my brother stumbled on a tractor while he was going to his friends house.

it is a yanmar 1300D, from some research it is a gray market tractor, and 4wd and comes with a loader. but I dont know much more then that :(
(I also herd that NAPA has parts? I dont understand this. can someone explain)

I am uploading a high definition video to youtube as I type, but its going to be along while befor its done.

so I was wondering if I can get some info for a newb. (whats a good price)
what to look for? good tractor? manuals? any tips to haggling the price down (tho I am not sure on price yet, never talked to anyone)



again VIDEO coming soon :)
 

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Hello Sylvester,

Buying a Yanmar tractor can be an easy choice just because of their reliability, incredible durability, fuel economy and their relationship with John Deere. But locating parts at your local NAPA just isn’t true. You can find a fuel filter that’s close, and oil filter that will work but air filters, or any other hard parts (like clutch disks, T/O bearings etc.) do NOT have an exact fit. Fortunately, the OEM parts for this Yanmar are easily acquired through good gray market Yanmar dealers, and some offer help and advice right here on our forum.

Straight Up Truth about this model (and because I’ve owned for 5 years) is:
It’s size and unassuming appearance fools perspective owners or ’guests’ that this cute little thing, not much bigger than a lawn tractor, should be fun to Hop on and go for a spin. This can be a very bad decesion and, in some circumstances, a lethal mistake. The tractor WILL climb walls, tip over in a heart beat, and injure or kill the unsuspecting operator before he has time to make a life altering correction. Add the fact that the model you’re considering is equipped with a FEL and no roll over protection (ROPS) and seat belts only compounds the problems of a small, narrow frame diesel tractor. On a (foolish) bet, I have planted my YM1300D firmly against an oak tree with the throttle back 1/3rd and in 4WD. The tractor sat there and spun the tires for a full 3 minutes until I got back in the seat, took it out of gear and removed it from it’s deep tire ruts…The tractor would have kept going until it either ran out of fuel or over heated and blown the engine. Scary powerful in a very small package (I can‘t say that often enough).

I will say, that if you operate this model and remain careful, like a much larger diesel tractor, you will be safe and enjoy it. Adding a ROPS and seat belts should be a priority.

The 2TR13 engine, like similar two cylinder “Johnny Poppers” is noisy! That rod or main bearing knocking sound is really the detonation and fuel timing aftermath from the direct injected engine’s design. This engine is also cooled by thermal-siphon and convection (NO water pump) and it’s wise to keep tabs on the tractors heat range when operating during summer months or working heavy implements like a roto-tiller, finish mower, etc.

Although my claims about this tractor are all true, I have other Yanmar’s that actually do the grunt work around our property. My little YM1300D, sits around like a retired race horse out to pasture. And I had some serious offers….but just can’t seem to let ’er go :D.

That tractor, in you’re attachment, appears to have a “BushHog or Allied” style loader, The tractor only, if in good running condition should fetch in the neighborhood of $2500-$3K and possibly + $1500-$1750 additional for the FEL.

Happy hunting and keep us posted will ya?

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi Mark.
thank you for the reply.
I was wondering why the tractor didn't have a roll bar, but I have access to a professional welder (family member) that could do the welding if someone knows where the proper location of the rops should be (and proper gauge of metal).

I actually just learned how to drive a ford 3000 some weeks ago at a family members home/farm, I am grateful as I had a whole field to learn on (and box scrape! YAE), after looking at the yanmar I was pleased to see that its the same layout as the ford 3000 correct?

the video is almost done uploading to youtube.
maybe you will be able to tell me more about the tractor after viewing.

I hate to say it but I will most likely be a tire kicker on this one.
the only hope I have right now is that this guy just wants it out as its been their for awhile (not in a good advertising place lol) but I am just dreaming.

I mainly wanted to post this to get a good idea on the tractor befor I talk to him, I read thru the "punch list" topic should that be a good place to start? or is there anything else to look for on this tractor.
 

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hi Mark.
thank you for the reply.
I was wondering why the tractor didn't have a roll bar, but I have access to a professional welder (family member) that could do the welding if someone knows where the proper location of the rops should be (and proper gauge of metal).

I actually just learned how to drive a ford 3000 some weeks ago at a family members home/farm, I am grateful as I had a whole field to learn on (and box scrape! YAE), after looking at the yanmar I was pleased to see that its the same layout as the ford 3000 correct?

the video is almost done uploading to youtube.
maybe you will be able to tell me more about the tractor after viewing.

I hate to say it but I will most likely be a tire kicker on this one.
the only hope I have right now is that this guy just wants it out as its been their for awhile (not in a good advertising place lol) but I am just dreaming.

I mainly wanted to post this to get a good idea on the tractor befor I talk to him, I read thru the "punch list" topic should that be a good place to start? or is there anything else to look for on this tractor.
DO NOT MAKE YOUR OWN ROPS! If THIS doesn't convince you, then have at it. I too used to think it was just a matter of building it really strong. Having seen this article (and others like it) and being a second-hand party to the testing that went on for the OSHA approved ROPS we carry, I would never again consider having a ROPS built by even the best fabricator. Way too many engineering factors involved. A new OSHA approved ROPS w/ seat belt and all hardware is a little over $600 + shipping. So you get something made for $200....or more....what is your life worth? Most people have absolutely no clue how rollovers usually happen, and I haven't the time now for that dissertation. Suffice it to say there are countless ways people never even consider....most figure rollovers happen sideways on a hill. In fact, a lot of fatals happen as rear rollovers, while pulling, because people don't understand simple physics.

We can supply many of the parts for a 1300 (as many as are available) and we offer a pdf (9,000KB) of the aftermarket parts catalog for free by email if your server will take a file that large. We sell (quite reasonably, or include it for $6 postage with any parts order over $50....like a ROPS:) ) the actual parts book with exploded diagrams, and included the catalog on that CD as well. Realize that it's primary limitation will be it's weight. But don't even touch it if you can't afford the ROPS too.
 

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hi Mark.
thank you for the reply.
I was wondering why the tractor didn't have a roll bar, but I have access to a professional welder (family member) that could do the welding if someone knows where the proper location of the rops should be (and proper gauge of metal).

I actually just learned how to drive a ford 3000 some weeks ago at a family members home/farm, I am grateful as I had a whole field to learn on (and box scrape! YAE), after looking at the yanmar I was pleased to see that its the same layout as the ford 3000 correct?

the video is almost done uploading to youtube.
maybe you will be able to tell me more about the tractor after viewing.

I hate to say it but I will most likely be a tire kicker on this one.
the only hope I have right now is that this guy just wants it out as its been their for awhile (not in a good advertising place lol) but I am just dreaming.

I mainly wanted to post this to get a good idea on the tractor befor I talk to him, I read thru the "punch list" topic should that be a good place to start? or is there anything else to look for on this tractor.
This guy saved a lot of money with his home made ROPS.

Danny http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/face/stateface/ia/03ia020.html
 

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DO NOT MAKE YOUR OWN ROPS! If THIS doesn't convince you, then have at it. I too used to think it was just a matter of building it really strong. Having seen this article (and others like it) and being a second-hand party to the testing that went on for the OSHA approved ROPS we carry, I would never again consider having a ROPS built by even the best fabricator. Way too many engineering factors involved. A new OSHA approved ROPS w/ seat belt and all hardware is a little over $600 + shipping. So you get something made for $200....or more....what is your life worth? Most people have absolutely no clue how rollovers usually happen, and I haven't the time now for that dissertation. Suffice it to say there are countless ways people never even consider....most figure rollovers happen sideways on a hill. In fact, a lot of fatals happen as rear rollovers, while pulling, because people don't understand simple physics.

We can supply many of the parts for a 1300 (as many as are available) and we offer a pdf (9,000KB) of the aftermarket parts catalog for free by email if your server will take a file that large. We sell (quite reasonably, or include it for $6 postage with any parts order over $50....like a ROPS:) ) the actual parts book with exploded diagrams, and included the catalog on that CD as well. Realize that it's primary limitation will be it's weight. But don't even touch it if you can't afford the ROPS too.
I was typing with 1 finger tied behind my back.
Danny
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I guess I wasn't thinking clearly, what I should have said was if the ROPS was still available for this older tractor? those pics are scary!!!
I agree that a ROPS would be a first thing to get, I like being as safe as possible.

does the video tell you guys another story? or is it all good?
(I noticed the welding on the lower support doesn't go all the way around!)
**2:13s on the video shows what im talking about***
 

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I guess I wasn't thinking clearly, what I should have said was if the ROPS was still available for this older tractor? those pics are scary!!!
I agree that a ROPS would be a first thing to get, I like being as safe as possible.

does the video tell you guys another story? or is it all good?
(I noticed the welding on the lower support doesn't go all the way around!)
**2:13s on the video shows what im talking about***
OSHA approved ROPS are available for that tractor, a little over $ 600.00.

Danny
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the replies.
I just talked to the guy, hes Italian. if I didnt have Italian in me I wouldn't know what he was saying!!! lol
hes asking $3900, it also comes with a snowblower.
he really wanted me to go and see it now but I cant get out at the moment.

when I go, he said he will start it up and show me the functions of the tractor.

I dont want to ask to much right now from you guys (as I know you still need to watch the video Mark)
but anything I should check visually for wear? (I am a super nub to yanmar and these diesels)
can you tell the year of the tractor? (also any parts service in canada? I know you guys mentioned their are in the states so thats cool also)

it all depends now what the final price is, I know the tractors are old (not sure how old) but money might need to be put into it to get it in proper working order. (I guess just to change a clutch would be a big job)

regards
Mike
 

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I watched the video...very entertaining and interesting music :D.

I don't see anything out of the ordinary. The tractor does seem to be either neglected somewhat, or left to the elements which has rust through spots on the tin (sheet metal). Even though the tractor operator area is covered, the tear in the shift boot will almost certainly indicate the Hy-Trans fluid is contaminated with water. The fluid should be changed immediately, and the inside transmission filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced….(if you end up buying this tractor).

What remains to be done is operating the tractor. If you have someone that is better at this, or more familiar with tractors in general you might asked them to come along. Go unannounced so that you're the first to start the tractor. This should eliminate any hint that the dealer is assisting the start procedure using ether...which would make me walk away from the entire deal and forego any negotiating.

Yes, re-read the punch list threads. And please keep in mind that although I wrote that, and signed my name, it IS a culmination of input from dealers, parts suppliers and current owners who have done the walk around and provided me with their experiences. I simply compiled my notes and stuck in on the forum as an aid for prespective buyers.

Mark
 

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thanks for the comment about the video :D
every time I go see a tractor in person I film, I noticed it helps that you can go home and review the video 2-3 times and find things you missed in person. (soon I may have a big collection of different tractors hehe)

well I think its safe to say that the owner used it mainly for snow removal. the tractor is on a small plot of land that he uses to store cars hes selling, he mentioned that he moves them around with the tractor, hope he means just trailering them not lifting them (front or rear end).

1) the rust through I see is on the hood. did you see any bad spots underneath

2) is the hy-trans fluid hard to change? and can the boot be replaced? (what is involved in the process for both?

3) I tried searching the forum to find a manual on the tractor but dont see anything, I am looking for the basics, so I am more familiar with the tractor ie, oil changes, part schematics etc.

4) what are the proper servicing procedures (hopefully that is in the manual)

5) now that you have watched the video, how do you feel about his $3900 asking price? just curious (with snowblower snowblower *unknown condition at the moment)

I dont know anyone in my area that is familiar with the tractors, the family member that taught me to use the ford 3000 is very busy and quite a drive from me.

what I will do is when I go back, I will again film everything and post it up as another video. (running tractor this time!!! :D)

I should have asked him what year was the tractor etc, when I see him next I guess.

regards.

I watched the video...very entertaining and interesting music :D.

I don't see anything out of the ordinary. The tractor does seem to be either neglected somewhat, or left to the elements which has rust through spots on the tin (sheet metal). Even though the tractor operator area is covered, the tear in the shift boot will almost certainly indicate the Hy-Trans fluid is contaminated with water. The fluid should be changed immediately, and the inside transmission filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced….(if you end up buying this tractor).

What remains to be done is operating the tractor. If you have someone that is better at this, or more familiar with tractors in general you might asked them to come along. Go unannounced so that you're the first to start the tractor. This should eliminate any hint that the dealer is assisting the start procedure using ether...which would make me walk away from the entire deal and forego any negotiating.

Yes, re-read the punch list threads. And please keep in mind that although I wrote that, and signed my name, it IS a culmination of input from dealers, parts suppliers and current owners who have done the walk around and provided me with their experiences. I simply compiled my notes and stuck in on the forum as an aid for prespective buyers.

Mark
 

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thanks for the comment about the video :D
every time I go see a tractor in person I film, I noticed it helps that you can go home and review the video 2-3 times and find things you missed in person. (soon I may have a big collection of different tractors hehe)

well I think its safe to say that the owner used it mainly for snow removal. the tractor is on a small plot of land that he uses to store cars hes selling, he mentioned that he moves them around with the tractor, hope he means just trailering them not lifting them (front or rear end).

1) the rust through I see is on the hood. did you see any bad spots underneath

2) is the hy-trans fluid hard to change? and can the boot be replaced? (what is involved in the process for both?

3) I tried searching the forum to find a manual on the tractor but dont see anything, I am looking for the basics, so I am more familiar with the tractor ie, oil changes, part schematics etc.

4) what are the proper servicing procedures (hopefully that is in the manual)

5) now that you have watched the video, how do you feel about his $3900 asking price? just curious (with snowblower snowblower *unknown condition at the moment)

I dont know anyone in my area that is familiar with the tractors, the family member that taught me to use the ford 3000 is very busy and quite a drive from me.

what I will do is when I go back, I will again film everything and post it up as another video. (running tractor this time!!! :D)

I should have asked him what year was the tractor etc, when I see him next I guess.

regards.
I have the Parts, Service, and Operation Manuals for that tractor in stock, I also have the rubber Boot in stock.

Danny
 

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I own a JD 950 which is a Yanmar built tractor, just rebadged to John Deere. It is a very tough machine. I absolutely love it. I have had only a few minor repairs and routine maintanence to perform. I have had one "major" repair to make, but I think that the part failed due to abuse by the previous owners. I say it was major because the machine had to be split in two to get to the area. Parts prices were very reasonable.

Just thought I'd post you a little info on the performace of a Yanmar built product.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide.
 

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I own a JD 950 which is a Yanmar built tractor, just rebadged to John Deere. It is a very tough machine. I absolutely love it. I have had only a few minor repairs and routine maintanence to perform. I have had one "major" repair to make, but I think that the part failed due to abuse by the previous owners. I say it was major because the machine had to be split in two to get to the area. Parts prices were very reasonable.

Just thought I'd post you a little info on the performace of a Yanmar built product.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide.
Sorry, but it is not just "rebadged." While it shares many parts with similar models marketed under the Yanmar name, it is not an exact copy of any of them.
 

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Yeah, you're right. I guess that I was a bit misleading there. While it may have been built by Yanmar, it was indeed built to the JD specs. Didn't mean to cause any confusion.
 

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.......... While it may have been built by Yanmar, it was indeed built to the JD specs. Didn't mean to cause any confusion.
NO problem :fing32: , and I think you're correct. John Deere influenced (intentionally?) Yanmar to those design changes so they were exclusive for JD and not compatible with the domestic and grey market tractors (OK, that's IMHO).

Some items like wheels/tires, 3PH lift arms and top links and other generic items will fit but that's about all I can think of.

Mark
 

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.....

1) the rust through I see is on the hood. did you see any bad spots underneath

NO, I didn't see anything remotely like rust through...

2) is the hy-trans fluid hard to change? and can the boot be replaced? (what is involved in the process for both?

It's not difficult to change the fluids. There are lower plugs in the rear axle. It may take a few times IF there is a milky brown color, which is a contamination of water in the hy-trans fluid. Removing and cleaning the internal screen filter is a MUST. The large return line hose, connected to the steel tube and round flange, fastened to the transmissions lower side, IS the cover for the internal screen. DON'T RELY on the FEL to hold up your tractor while your work underneath. Replace with JD 303 (or better) rated hy-trans fluid.

3) I tried searching the forum to find a manual on the tractor but dont see anything, I am looking for the basics, so I am more familiar with the tractor ie, oil changes, part schematics etc.

LMTC, Danny and others can provide you with manuals. And some greatly reduce the price of these manuals with parts purchases. I would purchase the YM155D manual. This is the domestic sister tractor, with only slight differences AND it's in English.

4) what are the proper servicing procedures (hopefully that is in the manual)

The operators/owners manual will have fluid capacities, scheduled maintenance intervals, starting procedures and basic trouble shooting...I don't have or feel the need for this manual as I have the PDF file parts dialogue from LMTC. This manual is, without exception, the mechanics bible. Pages are smudged, some upside down and nearly all are in Japanese But, the detail in the exploded views are grouped in assemblies, numbered and easily copied, printed and taken to my shop for reference on how to dissasemble and reassemble the most complex parts on any given model. The first and best $35 bucks any person who has an inkling of mechanical apptitude should own...and then the ropes :fing32:

5) now that you have watched the video, how do you feel about his $3900 asking price? just curious (with snowblower snowblower *unknown condition at the moment)

Sorry, I just don't have a clue as I can't listen or operate the tractor for you. IMO, if the tractor runs well, starts fairly quickly, doesn't smoke (black, blue or white color smoke) under load or idle, has very little blow-by and there are no unusual noises in the transmission and front axle, 4WD drive engages smoothly and operates without hesitation, 3PH hydraulics work well then the tractor is worth $3K. That's just the tractor!

The FEL and snow blower, should you have to add those after the purchase price, are big ticket items and put you well over the $4500- $5K range.


I dont know anyone in my area that is familiar with the tractors, the family member that taught me to use the ford 3000 is very busy and quite a drive from me.

what I will do is when I go back, I will again film everything and post it up as another video. (running tractor this time!!! :D)

I should have asked him what year was the tractor etc, when I see him next I guess.

He will NOT know the year of the tractor. They were produced from early 1975 to mid 1980. There are no known serial or casting numbers that are specific to year.



regards.

The shift boot slides off with the shifter knob removed, and installed the same way. There should be an "O" ring purchased with the boot to secure and keep the boot water tight. It is secured at, and around the base of the boot


Hope this helps, Mark
 
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