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Wanting to add a homemade ballast box to rear of my x475. Approximately what size does everyone typically use and how much concrete. I have access to sheet metal and everything needed to build a box and work so that's not an issue. I plan on using a homemade 2 reciever I have mounted on the back of the tractor now.

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What is the purpose of using a ballast box? Winter or summer operations?

I, personally, have no use for a ballast box. Rim Guard loaded tires and 2-link chains add 310 lb, and if I need more, wheel weights and an implement on the 3PH will suffice for any normal operations.
 

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FWIW, I have HDAP on my x728, have the rear ones filled with Rimguard, and been running it year round for about 5 years now with on observable impact to my lawn during the mowing season.

 

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Wanting to add a homemade ballast box to rear of my x475. Approximately what size does everyone typically use and how much concrete. I have access to sheet metal and everything needed to build a box and work so that's not an issue. I plan on using a homemade 2 reciever I have mounted on the back of the tractor now.
I use a ballast box on my 140. It is frame mounted, so sits in tight at the rear of the tractor. Very useful for ballasting the tractor and doesn't stick out and become a liability/obstruction in close-quarter maneuvering. It puts the weight right where I need it - - almost over the rear axle providing great traction.

The other advantage is it works well as a "trunk", meaning I can haul additional tools and fuel in it, which is very handy. Plus the backside is a good spot for the SMV placard.

If you decide to use concrete as your ballast, before pouring it in set 4-6 PVC pipes cut to length and upright in the 4-corners and maybe the middle area. This will give you great storage for anything with a handle - - shovels, brooms, rakes, hammers, pry bars, etc. And don't fill the box to the brim - - you want it to have 6-8" of depth above the poured concrete, for storing other items like a fuel jug, wheel chocks, chains, etc.

However, instead of poured concrete for ballast, I recommend sizing the box to accommodate JD suitcase weights. You could take measurements and size it to accept 6-8 of the 42 lbs weights on the inside, and fabricate it in such a way that additional weights can be hung on the trailing exterior edge if more ballast is needed. By using suitcase weights, you can vary the ballast to the job requirement, and can lighten the tractor as needed while still having your "trunk" mounted. Being able to lighten the ballast box also makes it easier to dismount/store when not needed at all.

Good luck - - sounds like a fun project. P.S. You might want to study how JD mounts these with their "click-n-go" bracket set-up.
 

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Winter... use hdaps yr round so cant add fluid. No 3point

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I moved 50 yards of fill from my driveway across my back yard and into my neighbour's lower back yard using my GT with loaded and chained tires. This involved several hundred trips over a 3 week period and any suggestion of damage was not noticeable a month later. The lawn still needed to be mowed.

I had the rear tires on that tractor loaded the day that I bought it and it never turned a wheel without loaded and chained tires installed for the next 24 years, winter or summer. With a FEL permanently installed, I'm more concerned about the possibility of damage created by the non-loaded, smaller diameter and narrower front tires, especially when the ground is soggy.

Whether bolted to the rear, installed on a sleeve hitch, or installed on a 3PH makes no difference for ballast added except in the leverage ratio applied by that weight. I just happen to have a 3PH on that tractor. On another GT, I did use a ballast box until I installed a 3PH for more flexibility.
 

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This past fall, for my x370, I welded one of these:

https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/1142650-deere-x300-weight-box.html

I got the idea from that thread ^^. I used some old angle iron scraps and some very rudimentary welding, but the result was a terrific ballast box. Like the author of that thread, I put an old milk crate on it, and then I filled an old 5-gallon pail with cement (I put a bent piece of iron rod in it as a handle) so the result is about 75 lbs or so of ballast.

I found when plowing this winter, between the chains and that ballast, the tractor performed *much* better than the year before when I had no ballast.
 

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Where In Iowa ?
I have a Ballast Box that I want to get rid of I am 40 Miles west of Chicago

I bought it New In 2003 with My X485 and I have No use for it anymore.

:thThumbsU
 

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You will want to have some upper support connected to the frame like the click and go brackets. That is way too much weight and stress to be bouncing around connected to a 2" receiver bolted to the hitch plate.

Also I keep my 75 pound concrete wheel weights on my tractor year round. No issues with damage to the lawn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You will want to have some upper support connected to the frame like the click and go brackets. That is way too much weight and stress to be bouncing around connected to a 2" receiver bolted to the hitch plate.



Also I keep my 75 pound concrete wheel weights on my tractor year round. No issues with damage to the lawn.
Thanks for the info, didnt think about the stress. I think I will connect to the frame instead

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Reit38
Several photos of the ballast box attached along with a tape measure for reference.
Ken
 

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One more time this time with the photos.
 

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