Thanks for the excellent review!
X748SE 150hr review
I bought the X748SE, a new '08 model, last October. I got the 54" deck, and a Power Flow with MC519 cart. The Power Flow got a steady workout all the way through the end of the year, about 55-60 hrs worth. I did the initial break-in oil and tranny fluid changes myself, including filters. straightforward and no problems.
The cart mounts solidly to the rear of the tractor, meaning it stays directly behind you when you make turns. It will move up and down for uneven terrain and rolls on two castered wheels. The cover hinges at the front, and a latch keeps it closed until you're ready to empty it. Deere advertises that you can empty the cart without getting out of the seat. Well,.... my seat is the high back deluxe seat, and no way can you reach around to release the cart dump lock or release the cover latch without getting out of the seat. This is a minor point, though. When you do release the dump lock and the cover latch, and pull just a little with the handle on the front of the cart, a hydraulic cylinder under the cart takes over and the whole thing opens like a clamshell, dumping the contents. Closing and latching everything is also straightforward, and after a couple of cycles of filling and dumping, you get a rhythm going, and it beats the **** out of raking.
The Power Flow also needs addressing. It drives off the right-hand blade spindle; when you have it installed, there is an additional sheave which mounts on top of the blade drive sheave. There is a heavy steel bar that fits into a mount which bolts to the deck near the right front gauge wheel. This bar holds the front of the blower assembly, and the blower housing fits into the exit chute of the deck. The drive belt is fitted around the pulley on the deck, and then you pull and latch a lever that tensions the belt and holds the blower to the deck. Attach the chute to the blower after sliding it into the cart cover, and you're ready. With a couple of times practicing, the whole shebang (cart, blower and all hookups) can be done in 5 minutes, ready to use. The vacuum is outstanding, the system includes a couple of anti-blowout plates that bolt to the underside of the deck edges. I can pick up acorns, chestnuts, even black walnuts in the hull. Initially, I was worried that these nuts would damage the impellers, but I have been surprised and satisfied. Heavy, wet grass demands a slow ground speed, or you can clog up the chute. Normal grass is a breeze.
Now, the tractor. This is a BIG change from my previous mower, a JD GT235 I've had since 2002 (I kept it). I wanted something heavier duty, that I could garden with and push a bit harder than the GT. I sold a Yanmar 1810D and most of my implements to get the 748.
I bought the X748 SE without the 3-point hitch or rear PTO, figuring I would get them within the first year. I had debated over it or a 2305, but financing and incentives were a bit better at the time for the 748, and most of my use would be mowing. The SE comes with a very nice seat, fancy wheels, HDAP tires front and rear, front fenders, and a brush guard. The package is slightly more expensive than buying the seat separately alone, and the seat is by far the best thing about the SE package. Adjustable for driver weight, up to 250 pounds, it has adjustable lumbar support, the back will adjust for angle, and the armrests can be adjusted for height, or flipped up out of the way. I have some lower back problems ( rode hard and put up wet) and I'm very glad I got the seat.
The tractor cranks easily, just turn the key, you're supposed to wait until the glow heater light goes out, but even mid winter, it would fire off immediately, hardly a couple of turns with the starter. The little diesel just sips fuel. I can mow my yard and my rental yard next door (about 4 acres total) on just under two gallons. It has ample power to mow moderately heavy and tall grass at about 2/3 max speed and get a clean cut. The HDAP tires are great on hills, I have a couple that require 4WD as well to keep from slipping or spinning. Turning off the engine is an experience. The compression of the engine and the momentum makes it shake like a dog coming out of a pond for about 3 seconds.
The 54" deck is very nice, does a very smooth, even cut. It takes about2-3 minutes to either remove or mount the deck. The gauge wheels pivot sideways, and once disconnected, just rolls sideways out from under the tractor. The one downside to the brush guard is that it must be removed at the bottom from the weight rack so the front carrier for the deck can be removed. It adds all of 30 seconds to the task, so I wouldn't say it's a pain. There is a rod held with two cotter clips, and all you do is remove on clip and slide the rod out, then remove the brush guard.
I find that the deck is a bit more prone to buildup underneath than the 48" deck on my GT235. There are a couple of additional nooks from the deck stamping process that trap clippings. I clean my deck at least once a week anyway, so again, no reason to not get this deck.
The radiator on the X7xx models is between the driver and engine, a "backwards" arrangement from traditional radiator-up-front layout. JD does this for a couple of reasons, one being that the fan is pulling cool air from in front of the driver, rather than blowing hot air AT the driver. There are three screens for the air to pass through, one on each side and one below the instrument panel. The side screens remove easily for cleaning, and there is another removable screen directly over the radiator and oil cooler. When mowing in high, dry grass or if there is a lot of thatch blowing around, these screens will fill quickly. It's a good idea to watch the temp gauge, and when it starts to climb to the halfway mark, it's a good time to shut down and clean the screens, which can be done in a couple of minutes. The hood has to be raised to remove the side screens. The brush guard has a spring-loaded handle that unlatches it and allows it to tip forward, the hood cannot open with the guard in place.
At full throttle, fan noise is what you hear the most, even over the pleasant "thrum" of the diesel. It seems less intrusive, though, when the deck is engaged, and you get a sound that is a symphony of the business of cutting. I find full throttle only needed for mowing, most of my other tasks are done at 1/2 to 3/4 power, and the fan noise is much less.
At about 85 hrs, I had the rear PTO and limited Cat 1 3-point lift installed. I bought a Land Pride RTR 0550 tiller and the 748 handles it just fine. The PTO has a selector lever on the frame down by the left rear tire. You can select the rear PTO by itself, or both rear and mid-PTO, or just the mid PTO. There is also a cover for the rear splined shaft, to keep it clean when not in use. The cover snap fits over a couple of screws.
The lift is awesome. The lower arms remove in less than a minute if needed. There is also a screw lock that can be used to lock the lift in the raised position so it doesn't go up and down when using the mid mower. The same lever on the control panel is used for both mid lift and rear lift. The mower deck height adjustment is used to lock the mid lift in the up position when using the rear lift. The tiller weighs just over 300 pounds, and the tractor will lift it without having to have weights up front, but you can tell there's not much weight on the front wheels. I generally use 84 pounds (two suitcase weights) when tilling, and they are sufficient to give the front tires plenty of traction in tilled dirt. The front weight rack will hold 4 weights if needed.
I can till in 2WD, using the diff lock. That's how good the HDAP's are. With the diff locked and in 4WD, this tractor will pull like you won't believe.
Maintenance is a breeze on this tractor. The hood tips forward, and removes in about 30 seconds. Getting to the battery requires removing the hood, you can get to the air cleaner with hood in place, but it's easier with it off. There is a flowsensor on the intake tube between the air filter and manifold. When the filter starts getting clogged, it triggers an amber caution light on the instrument panel, warning you to clean or replace the filter, which is a two-part filter. there is an inner and outer. Together, they cost about $45. I replaced mine at 150 hours, after blowing it out once at 120 hrs when the sensor said it was getting clogged. The oil filter sticks out the left side of the engine, just above the oil pan, and next to the dipstick. It's a good idea to stuff a rag under the filter when removing it, to catch the oil that runs out. The oil drain is on the other side, and has a fitting that allows a plastic tube to fasten to it, so you can drain the oil into a pan on the ground and not get oil on the frame or front driveshaft. The fuel filter is on the front of the engine, you have to remove the hood to get to it. It helps to fill the bowl before replacing it, but if you get air in the fuel line, it will self-bleed with several tries on the starter. For those who have had diesels and know what a PITA it is to have to bleed the air and reprime the injectors, this self bleed and prime is really nice.
The tranny drains through a single bolt at the rear bottom of the housing. The trans filter is under the tractor on the bottom front of the tranny, easy to get to if you're lying on your back, reaching under just in front of the rear tire. The tranny fill is behind and slightly under the seat, which if tilted forward, is out of the way. The fill cap has a dipstick to check the tranny fluid level.
All in all, I can't praise this machine enough. It does everything I've needed it to do, and will do a lot more yet. I have had NO mechanical issues. I'd recommend this tractor to anyone who plans to mow commercially, or has more than 4-5 acres to care for and wants something that will do much more than mow if needed.
The cart mounts solidly to the rear of the tractor, meaning it stays directly behind you when you make turns. It will move up and down for uneven terrain and rolls on two castered wheels. The cover hinges at the front, and a latch keeps it closed until you're ready to empty it. Deere advertises that you can empty the cart without getting out of the seat. Well,.... my seat is the high back deluxe seat, and no way can you reach around to release the cart dump lock or release the cover latch without getting out of the seat. This is a minor point, though. When you do release the dump lock and the cover latch, and pull just a little with the handle on the front of the cart, a hydraulic cylinder under the cart takes over and the whole thing opens like a clamshell, dumping the contents. Closing and latching everything is also straightforward, and after a couple of cycles of filling and dumping, you get a rhythm going, and it beats the **** out of raking.
The Power Flow also needs addressing. It drives off the right-hand blade spindle; when you have it installed, there is an additional sheave which mounts on top of the blade drive sheave. There is a heavy steel bar that fits into a mount which bolts to the deck near the right front gauge wheel. This bar holds the front of the blower assembly, and the blower housing fits into the exit chute of the deck. The drive belt is fitted around the pulley on the deck, and then you pull and latch a lever that tensions the belt and holds the blower to the deck. Attach the chute to the blower after sliding it into the cart cover, and you're ready. With a couple of times practicing, the whole shebang (cart, blower and all hookups) can be done in 5 minutes, ready to use. The vacuum is outstanding, the system includes a couple of anti-blowout plates that bolt to the underside of the deck edges. I can pick up acorns, chestnuts, even black walnuts in the hull. Initially, I was worried that these nuts would damage the impellers, but I have been surprised and satisfied. Heavy, wet grass demands a slow ground speed, or you can clog up the chute. Normal grass is a breeze.
Now, the tractor. This is a BIG change from my previous mower, a JD GT235 I've had since 2002 (I kept it). I wanted something heavier duty, that I could garden with and push a bit harder than the GT. I sold a Yanmar 1810D and most of my implements to get the 748.
I bought the X748 SE without the 3-point hitch or rear PTO, figuring I would get them within the first year. I had debated over it or a 2305, but financing and incentives were a bit better at the time for the 748, and most of my use would be mowing. The SE comes with a very nice seat, fancy wheels, HDAP tires front and rear, front fenders, and a brush guard. The package is slightly more expensive than buying the seat separately alone, and the seat is by far the best thing about the SE package. Adjustable for driver weight, up to 250 pounds, it has adjustable lumbar support, the back will adjust for angle, and the armrests can be adjusted for height, or flipped up out of the way. I have some lower back problems ( rode hard and put up wet) and I'm very glad I got the seat.
The tractor cranks easily, just turn the key, you're supposed to wait until the glow heater light goes out, but even mid winter, it would fire off immediately, hardly a couple of turns with the starter. The little diesel just sips fuel. I can mow my yard and my rental yard next door (about 4 acres total) on just under two gallons. It has ample power to mow moderately heavy and tall grass at about 2/3 max speed and get a clean cut. The HDAP tires are great on hills, I have a couple that require 4WD as well to keep from slipping or spinning. Turning off the engine is an experience. The compression of the engine and the momentum makes it shake like a dog coming out of a pond for about 3 seconds.
The 54" deck is very nice, does a very smooth, even cut. It takes about2-3 minutes to either remove or mount the deck. The gauge wheels pivot sideways, and once disconnected, just rolls sideways out from under the tractor. The one downside to the brush guard is that it must be removed at the bottom from the weight rack so the front carrier for the deck can be removed. It adds all of 30 seconds to the task, so I wouldn't say it's a pain. There is a rod held with two cotter clips, and all you do is remove on clip and slide the rod out, then remove the brush guard.
I find that the deck is a bit more prone to buildup underneath than the 48" deck on my GT235. There are a couple of additional nooks from the deck stamping process that trap clippings. I clean my deck at least once a week anyway, so again, no reason to not get this deck.
The radiator on the X7xx models is between the driver and engine, a "backwards" arrangement from traditional radiator-up-front layout. JD does this for a couple of reasons, one being that the fan is pulling cool air from in front of the driver, rather than blowing hot air AT the driver. There are three screens for the air to pass through, one on each side and one below the instrument panel. The side screens remove easily for cleaning, and there is another removable screen directly over the radiator and oil cooler. When mowing in high, dry grass or if there is a lot of thatch blowing around, these screens will fill quickly. It's a good idea to watch the temp gauge, and when it starts to climb to the halfway mark, it's a good time to shut down and clean the screens, which can be done in a couple of minutes. The hood has to be raised to remove the side screens. The brush guard has a spring-loaded handle that unlatches it and allows it to tip forward, the hood cannot open with the guard in place.
At full throttle, fan noise is what you hear the most, even over the pleasant "thrum" of the diesel. It seems less intrusive, though, when the deck is engaged, and you get a sound that is a symphony of the business of cutting. I find full throttle only needed for mowing, most of my other tasks are done at 1/2 to 3/4 power, and the fan noise is much less.
At about 85 hrs, I had the rear PTO and limited Cat 1 3-point lift installed. I bought a Land Pride RTR 0550 tiller and the 748 handles it just fine. The PTO has a selector lever on the frame down by the left rear tire. You can select the rear PTO by itself, or both rear and mid-PTO, or just the mid PTO. There is also a cover for the rear splined shaft, to keep it clean when not in use. The cover snap fits over a couple of screws.
The lift is awesome. The lower arms remove in less than a minute if needed. There is also a screw lock that can be used to lock the lift in the raised position so it doesn't go up and down when using the mid mower. The same lever on the control panel is used for both mid lift and rear lift. The mower deck height adjustment is used to lock the mid lift in the up position when using the rear lift. The tiller weighs just over 300 pounds, and the tractor will lift it without having to have weights up front, but you can tell there's not much weight on the front wheels. I generally use 84 pounds (two suitcase weights) when tilling, and they are sufficient to give the front tires plenty of traction in tilled dirt. The front weight rack will hold 4 weights if needed.
I can till in 2WD, using the diff lock. That's how good the HDAP's are. With the diff locked and in 4WD, this tractor will pull like you won't believe.
Maintenance is a breeze on this tractor. The hood tips forward, and removes in about 30 seconds. Getting to the battery requires removing the hood, you can get to the air cleaner with hood in place, but it's easier with it off. There is a flowsensor on the intake tube between the air filter and manifold. When the filter starts getting clogged, it triggers an amber caution light on the instrument panel, warning you to clean or replace the filter, which is a two-part filter. there is an inner and outer. Together, they cost about $45. I replaced mine at 150 hours, after blowing it out once at 120 hrs when the sensor said it was getting clogged. The oil filter sticks out the left side of the engine, just above the oil pan, and next to the dipstick. It's a good idea to stuff a rag under the filter when removing it, to catch the oil that runs out. The oil drain is on the other side, and has a fitting that allows a plastic tube to fasten to it, so you can drain the oil into a pan on the ground and not get oil on the frame or front driveshaft. The fuel filter is on the front of the engine, you have to remove the hood to get to it. It helps to fill the bowl before replacing it, but if you get air in the fuel line, it will self-bleed with several tries on the starter. For those who have had diesels and know what a PITA it is to have to bleed the air and reprime the injectors, this self bleed and prime is really nice.
The tranny drains through a single bolt at the rear bottom of the housing. The trans filter is under the tractor on the bottom front of the tranny, easy to get to if you're lying on your back, reaching under just in front of the rear tire. The tranny fill is behind and slightly under the seat, which if tilted forward, is out of the way. The fill cap has a dipstick to check the tranny fluid level.
All in all, I can't praise this machine enough. It does everything I've needed it to do, and will do a lot more yet. I have had NO mechanical issues. I'd recommend this tractor to anyone who plans to mow commercially, or has more than 4-5 acres to care for and wants something that will do much more than mow if needed.
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Thanks for the review. Good writeup. I am glad you are happy with your machine.
Nice review! Now my envy quotient is up another 10 more points!
Thanks for a very nice and detailed review :thThumbsU
Excellent review. Does the X748SE have the grease zerk on the top drive shaft back by the transaxle? Very hard to see and get too. slkpk
It should my x728 does.Excellent review. Does the X748SE have the grease zerk on the top drive shaft back by the transaxle? Very hard to see and get too. slkpk
Yes, it has the fitting on the U-joint where the driveshaft fits the tranny shaft. I didn't have to realign mine like someone else did,(was that you, slkpk?) but I have to 'bump' the starter sometimes to get it on the bottom so I can get to it. Including that fitting, there are 7 underneath the tractor: two on the front driveshaft (one each U-joint), one on each tie rod end, and one on each P.S. cylinder end. I'd like to have seen them on the footpedal pivots and the rockshaft pivots and lift cylinder ends, those are all plain bearings that will wear over time. I was also surprised to not see one on the front axle pivot. MY GT235 has one there.
The 54 deck has 10 zerk fittings: one each gauge wheel axle, one each blade spindle, and 3 on the driveshaft.
The 3-point hitch has NONE. I would have liked to see at least two on the upper lift arm pivots. Just oiling them don't get it for me, so I guess I'll either have to drill and install zerks, or disassemble the top arms and hand grease them. They bear the full weight of whatever implement you're lifting, and ride on plain bearings.
The 54 deck has 10 zerk fittings: one each gauge wheel axle, one each blade spindle, and 3 on the driveshaft.
The 3-point hitch has NONE. I would have liked to see at least two on the upper lift arm pivots. Just oiling them don't get it for me, so I guess I'll either have to drill and install zerks, or disassemble the top arms and hand grease them. They bear the full weight of whatever implement you're lifting, and ride on plain bearings.
I found one more zerk fitting. There IS a fitting on the front axle pivot, just have to look harder than I was looking. That makes 8 under the tractor.
The only issue I had was breaking the radiator drain loose when I changed coolant on my X585 last fall. It was a bear to get enough finger room.
That was not me who re-aligned. I ground down a grease tip to fit on the zerk. My 2305 has zerks on the drive line except for the one we were talking about. They ought to make the engineers come to your house and grease that darn thing. I bet they would figure out a way to fix that problem if they had too. slkpkYes, it has the fitting on the U-joint where the driveshaft fits the tranny shaft. I didn't have to realign mine like someone else did,(was that you, slkpk?) but I have to 'bump' the starter sometimes to get it on the bottom so I can get to it. Including that fitting, there are 7 underneath the tractor: two on the front driveshaft (one each U-joint), one on each tie rod end, and one on each P.S. cylinder end. I'd like to have seen them on the footpedal pivots and the rockshaft pivots and lift cylinder ends, those are all plain bearings that will wear over time. I was also surprised to not see one on the front axle pivot. MY GT235 has one there.
The 54 deck has 10 zerk fittings: one each gauge wheel axle, one each blade spindle, and 3 on the driveshaft.
The 3-point hitch has NONE. I would have liked to see at least two on the upper lift arm pivots. Just oiling them don't get it for me, so I guess I'll either have to drill and install zerks, or disassemble the top arms and hand grease them. They bear the full weight of whatever implement you're lifting, and ride on plain bearings.
Excellent review. Saves me the trouble for my 1-yr old x740. Only thing I can add is with 4 suitcase weights on the front and a 48" Taylor-Way tiller on the back more weight on the front was needed if I wanted to steer. Added the front weight rack which holds nine suitcase weights and that did the trick. So much for no 4WD.
Great review KHodges ...The only issue I had was breaking the radiator drain loose when I changed coolant on my X585 last fall. It was a bear to get enough finger room.
danbike , for my radiator drain (turn knob) I took a piece of rigid conduit 4" long x 1" diameter it has a wall thickness of 1/8" , took a hacksaw and at one end cut a slot 1/2" down 3/16" wide , this acts as a key over the drain (turn knob) at the other end I drilled a 5/16" diameter thru holes to put a phillips screwdriver in to turn the drain loose or tighten , works very well , I should have a patent on it ...
slkpk , I don't have a problem with the zerk on the transaxle driveshaft , while lying under the Tractor I just grasp the driveshaft and turn it by hand till the zerk is visible and my standard greasegun nozzle fits no problem ...
Later,x595
Thatsa good thing. My 2305 has the same hard to get too fitting under the floor pan. Those engineers probably laugh their butts off when they do those types of things. slkpkGreat review KHodges ...
danbike , for my radiator drain (turn knob) I took a piece of rigid conduit 4" long x 1" diameter it has a wall thickness of 1/8" , took a hacksaw and at one end cut a slot 1/2" down 3/16" wide , this acts as a key over the drain (turn knob) at the other end I drilled a 5/16" diameter thru holes to put a phillips screwdriver in to turn the drain loose or tighten , works very well , I should have a patent on it ...
slkpk , I don't have a problem with the zerk on the transaxle driveshaft , while lying under the Tractor I just grasp the driveshaft and turn it by hand till the zerk is visible and my standard greasegun nozzle fits no problem ...
Later,x595
Thanks for the detailed review!
:ditto: :ditto: Nice, nice machine!
210 hour update. Had a problem at 170 hours, the input bearing went bad in the 54C deck gearbox. My dealer was outstanding in getting me back in shape in less than a day, under warranty, of course. Oddly enough, there is no replacement for the bearing. The JD shop manual only shows oil seal replacement. The remedy for a bearing failure is gearbox replacement, about $525 if out of warranty. Supposedly, this is a rare failure.
Otherwise, still happily humming along.
Otherwise, still happily humming along.
So much for the highly touted benefits of "shaft drive". How much is a PTO deck drive belt again...? I can see driving the tractor via the shaft drive (the engine is vertcal afterall) but shaft driving the deck is just mechanical overkill on decks this size. Interestingly, there's never shaft drive for the spindles, just a good ol' reliable belts there.The remedy for a bearing failure is gearbox replacement, about $525 if out of warranty. Supposedly, this is a rare failure.
Tooling around the neighborhood today, saw my old thread, and thought I'd give a 750 hour update.
Not much to report, except for miles, and miles, and miles of grass under the wheels, and several seasons of gardening with plow and tiller. Beyond routine maintenance and many gallons of diesel fuel, I have suffered NO failures, NO mechanical issues except for one unexplained and unrepeated instance last winter. My reverse pedal "locked up", and I couldn't back the tractor up for two days. Went forward fine, modulated speed fine, made no strange noises. On the third day, everything was fine again. I had crawled under the machine to see what was jammed, stuck, or broken and could discover nothing amiss. Hasn't missed a lick since. The TruPower ag tires I installed after the first year are holding up fine, one front one picked up a thorn and has a slow leak, but only needs air about once a month.
My PowerFlow is starting to show some wear; the impeller's blades are getting worn and eroded at the tips, but then, I've used it since 2008 to vacuum leaves, chestnut husks, acorns; hit black walnuts, sticks and more than a few rocks with it, but the bearings are sound, even still running the original belt from the deck to the impeller. The MC519 cart has one caster whose pivot bearings won't last another year, and the collection system cover that fits over it is getting beat up, but stll functions perfectly.
I'm looking at maybe a front loader for the X748SE this summer. I just can't reconcile spending 3+ grand for it, when I can find a 60's Ford Powermaster with loader for just a tad more, and it will do more.
Overall, the X748 will outlive me, I do believe. It's odd, I bought it to sort of replace a GT235 I had bought new in 2002. In the 6 years I had it, mowing the same 6-7 acres, I managed to put only 425 hrs on the GT. In the 5 years I've now had the X748, I managed to accumulate 750 hours, doing the same tasks at home, but also plowing and tilling gardens, plus mowing for hire for several seasons. The GT235, which I still have and use at my Mother's house, has just turned 495 hrs. It hasn't missed a lick, either.
Not much to report, except for miles, and miles, and miles of grass under the wheels, and several seasons of gardening with plow and tiller. Beyond routine maintenance and many gallons of diesel fuel, I have suffered NO failures, NO mechanical issues except for one unexplained and unrepeated instance last winter. My reverse pedal "locked up", and I couldn't back the tractor up for two days. Went forward fine, modulated speed fine, made no strange noises. On the third day, everything was fine again. I had crawled under the machine to see what was jammed, stuck, or broken and could discover nothing amiss. Hasn't missed a lick since. The TruPower ag tires I installed after the first year are holding up fine, one front one picked up a thorn and has a slow leak, but only needs air about once a month.
My PowerFlow is starting to show some wear; the impeller's blades are getting worn and eroded at the tips, but then, I've used it since 2008 to vacuum leaves, chestnut husks, acorns; hit black walnuts, sticks and more than a few rocks with it, but the bearings are sound, even still running the original belt from the deck to the impeller. The MC519 cart has one caster whose pivot bearings won't last another year, and the collection system cover that fits over it is getting beat up, but stll functions perfectly.
I'm looking at maybe a front loader for the X748SE this summer. I just can't reconcile spending 3+ grand for it, when I can find a 60's Ford Powermaster with loader for just a tad more, and it will do more.
Overall, the X748 will outlive me, I do believe. It's odd, I bought it to sort of replace a GT235 I had bought new in 2002. In the 6 years I had it, mowing the same 6-7 acres, I managed to put only 425 hrs on the GT. In the 5 years I've now had the X748, I managed to accumulate 750 hours, doing the same tasks at home, but also plowing and tilling gardens, plus mowing for hire for several seasons. The GT235, which I still have and use at my Mother's house, has just turned 495 hrs. It hasn't missed a lick, either.
Just reread this and it is a great review. Thanks for all the information!!
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