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I dont have any input on your pto stoping under load. But as far as your small leaks there are 3 fairly common places that the trans can leak that I'm aware of.

1. The swash plate seals which consists of 2 or 3 o-rings where the forward/reverse linkage enters the trans axle on the right hand side.

2. The diff lock. There is a seal where the diff lock linkage enters the trans on the left side.

3. The pto seal. There is a seal where the pto shaft exists the trans on the front.

All 3 of these are pretty inexpensive and easy to replace. The swash plate seals are the hardest of these and its easiest to remove the trans to replace those.

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I guess looking at your pictures the first thing I would do is clean up that oily mess to help see what is actually happening.
 

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I have looked at the K92 transaxle manual and am wondering whether it would be worth removing the rear cover and checking the clutch plates?
Not a good idea to remove anything First clean the Trans very well . Start the Tractor and look it all over around the were the oil mess was . It may need to run for a little before you see anything . Did to move the Tractor after the Oil change if so turn the PTO on and watch it then drive it a little and look some move . It ould really help you to talk to a JD tec . Tell he what it is doing and why it really looks like oil on and in the clutch plates . Do not at this time open the Trans case that is just asking for a bigger problem
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I've completely cleaned all the oil from the transaxle now. I'll run it some and see if I can tell where the oil is coming from. I think I'll also get myself a gauge to test the pressures.

Has anybody removed the rear trans cover?

From what I can tell from the Tuff Torq K92 manual, it looks pretty straight forward to gain access to the clutch pack and inspect that for wear. I'm a fairly confident DIYer, but obviously if I can avoid it I'll try other approaches first.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Not sure whether this has anything to do with my problem, but should that pin on the forward control valve spring back out if pressed in? The reverse control valve does.

Could this indicate a problem with the charge pump?
2449115
 

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That taller one is a relief valve installed normally with a 45 loader. They both should pop back up but i dont think it has anything to do with pto slipping. Prob just neeeds removed and cleaned up so it pops backup. If this is a pto clutch slip will be first one ive seen on here with the hrs this machine has.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
If the tractor is shutting down the PTO for whatever reason, is it normal for the PTO light to stay illuminated? Or should that extinguish?
 

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If the tractor is shutting down the PTO for whatever reason, is it normal for the PTO light to stay illuminated? Or should that extinguish?
Mine turned off. It is illuminated when power is applied to the PTO clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So if the light is still illuminated, but the PTO is slowing to a stop under load, then the clutch must still be turning?
 

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So if the light is still illuminated, but the PTO is slowing to a stop under load, then the clutch must still be turning?
Yes, but if the clutch isn’t pulled solid, then it will slip. Same reason there was a question of whether oil might have gotten into the clutch. It’s two friction plats pulled together magnetically. If it’s slipping, the coil is either weak (high coil resistance), is getting hot (which causes the coil resistance to increase limiting the current through the clutch coil), or there isn’t enough voltage getting to the clutch (too much voltage drop in the wiring before it gets to the clutch coil (limiting the current through the clutch coil). If the clutch is out of adjustment, it generally won’t engage (especially if it has gotten hot, like from slipping).
 

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Im sure you looked at the manual online but this is what it says for a pto that stops and one that slows down. From the manual it sounds more like the electric solenoid controls hydraulic pressure that runs the pto clutch vs say what a x500 or x300 have.

PTO will not stay engaged**
Check engagement solenoid circuit.
Engagement valve installed incorrectly.
PTO clutch piston leaking, input shaft seal leaking or clutch disk worn.
Low charge pump output.
PTO pressure control valve faulty.

And slows----------

PTO shaft slows down**
Excessive load on PTO output. Remove load.
Use higher engine rpm. Check engine performance.
PTO lube reduction valve orifice plugged.
Low charge pump output.
PTO pressure control valve faulty.
PTO clutch piston leaking, input shaft seal leaking or clutch disk worn
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yeah it's not that it doesn't stay engaged. It slows under any load and will eventually completely stop.

I'm leaning toward clutch, but am also going to test output pump.
 

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Im sure you looked at the manual online but this is what it says for a pto that stops and one that slows down. From the manual it sounds more like the electric solenoid controls hydraulic pressure that runs the pto clutch vs say what a x500 or x300 have.

PTO will not stay engaged**
Check engagement solenoid circuit.
Engagement valve installed incorrectly.
PTO clutch piston leaking, input shaft seal leaking or clutch disk worn.
Low charge pump output.
PTO pressure control valve faulty.

And slows----------

PTO shaft slows down**
Excessive load on PTO output. Remove load.
Use higher engine rpm. Check engine performance.
PTO lube reduction valve orifice plugged.
Low charge pump output.
PTO pressure control valve faulty.
PTO clutch piston leaking, input shaft seal leaking or clutch disk worn
WOW! Didn’t realize they had hydraulic clutch. That would definitely make more sense. Great info! I wonder if they have any upgrades, like to an electric clutch? I don’t think my X738 has a hydraulic clutch, but will need to look into it.
 

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RT3360
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Yes your X-738 has a hydraulic clutch as all X tractors '
If the relief valve is open it would put less oil to the clutch and it will stop under a load .
 

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Here is a series of videos I did on the K91 transaxle. The K92 transaxle in the X series would not be much different. I think I highlighted some of the bigger differences I know about.

Part 1 of 8: Basically breaking down the whole transaxle piece by piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Seen that video - very informative. Do you have a video showing the removal of the clutch? Was it fairly straight forward to inspect the clutch plate wear?

I checked the pressures out of the output pump and clutch engagement pressure. All were within spec. This tells me surely I have a clutch plate wear problem?
 

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Could it still be the clutch piston leaking, input shaft seal leaking if the pressure tested ok? I dont know just throwing it out there too.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Definitely no leaks from input shaft area. Will remove rear case cover today and inspect clutch plates for wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Okay guys. I've pulled the clutch out, which was pretty straight forward.

Does anybody know the correct procedure for measuring the clutch plate wear? The manual seems a little confusing to me. Should I press down in the location shown in my picture and measure that gap? Or should there be a gap there without needing to press down. The manual doesn't say anything about pressing down, but being spring loaded, it makes sense to me to press down, then measure gap.

If this is the case, the current gap is 3.6mm, which the manual stipulates that any gap over 2.7mm warrants a replacement of clutch plates.
2449449
 

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If it was me I would pull the clutch a part. In the photo it sure looks like the plates are discolored. It’s easier to inspect the frictions and steel plates then measure the wear.
 
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