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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm late to the party but i spent a bunch of time gathering parts for the H4 and joystick mod on my x585. I had purchased a used spool valve that matches the factory installed one and after tearing off the fenders and foot deck i finally found a place i could put the valve. The valve is not as compact as some valves so it was a bit of a challenge to find room for it. I was able to locate the valve as shown below. I built a bracket that tucks behind the cross brace and bolts to the frame rail in two spots. Here's a pic of valve installed with the rods connected:


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Don't look too closely; it needs a bit more griding and paint yet. I copied @X748SE 's lead by building rods that connect on the back side of the dash levers and actuate the newly installed spool valve. I'm at a stopping point until my orders for hydraulic tubing and fittings arrive and also the new joystick lever and cables arrives. That was a sizable chunk of dough for those two orders! I did over-order for the fittings as i didn't want to get part way through this and then wish i had a different fitting - who knows if it'll make sense to return any of it.

As you can see from the valve it's pretty tight in there - at this time i plan on plugging the top ports closest to the driveshaft on the top side and plumb in the 3pt lift from the bottom side. I really don't know that i have a use for the built in tee in the valve otherwise, nor do i know if i can plumb in from the top closest to the driveshaft. The other spool will go to the rear of the machine with a set of quick connects.

I appreciate all of the advice from others here and i'm just copying what i think is the best ideas of others who have done this sort of mod already. Hopefully work will resume later on this week.
 

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are those open ports on top in the image?... surprised to see them open like that, to get dust and dirt into them - that will positively destroy the polished surfaces on the spools....
recommend closing off the ports with plastic plugs, or jam a piece of shop-rag (wrapped in thin plastic bag) in there....

cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Was able to make some more progress tonight. I plugged the ports where i hadn't made lines yet and fired up the machine.... and to my surprise i didn't see any leaks. I also moved the deck up and down and there is was no interference so that's amazing!

I only have one of those 3 in 1 mickey mouse benders that doesn't have the long handles nor the rollers so coupled with my inexperience my bends are more functional than pretty. As typical i improved by the end of the job so if i had to do the first lines over i'd likely route them a bit different. Pointing and laughing is perfectly understandable and will not hurt my feelings. I ended up using 3/8 steel brake line from the auto parts store. This tubing is rated for at least 1600 psi and my machine is set for 1400ish so it should be fine. The hydraulic tube was back ordered and every time i called they were less sure of when it might arrive. If i had used it i don't think i could have bent the tubing with the bender i had.

I purchased a used Ridgid model 376 flaring tool that worked pretty well. My wrist is a bit tired but that tool was in the budget and the mastercool hydraulic tool wasn't.

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The valve is tucked in there pretty tight. This valve is actuated by the factory levers. The camera angle makes it look like the line is sitting on top of the charge pump lines but it's 1/2" or so above it.

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The first spool runs the deck up and down, the second spool goes to a newly created rear outlet for future use. Took a few tries to get it between the frame and trans-axle and out an existing hole. I will be making a simple bracket to mount those outlets to the frame.

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I ran the out of the existing valve to in to the new valve and then out from the new valve gets spliced into the existing valve return. I followed @badgerland01's lead using a compression fitting to splice into the existing line. One major difference is that i have the loader tube right there vs the pics from when he did it on a x485! If i had to do it over again i think i would route the return line a bit different.

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Here's a shot from underneath - the camera makes it look like the lines touch but they don't.

I have yet to test again for leaks now that the rear ports are plumbed. I will be adding rubber isolation to prevent rubbing and replacing zip ties that i had to cut. Next up after that is to mount the joystick to the custom bracket, connect the cables and then test. Hopefully the testing will go well and i'll be able to start re-assembly this weekend.
 

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Nice job! Functional is good enough, especially under the tractor!!!

What joystick did you use?

Good plan to add rubber to protect the lines from rubbing against anything.

If you're using zip ties, use heavy duty ones, and keep an eye on them. I can't count how many broken ones I've had to replace on various vehicles here. Sometimes there's little choice but to use them, but my preference lately has been to use stainless hose clamps instead. And yes, there are various quality levels with those too.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The joystick and cables came from bunkerhillcables - https://bunkerhillcables.com/cable-control-joystick-for-remote-hydraulic-valves-dual-axis-64-00011/ It's an Idemar brand joystick with custom made cables. They will make it any length you want but i didn't really know the length i wanted and they are non-returnable so i went with 39" which could have been 41" and given me a bit more slack. I was concerned about what to do with too much slack and i took a guess at 39". I guessed correctly and will post some pics of the linkages after i get the joystick re-connected.

If someone is looking to do this is a pretty good deal: CABLE REMOTE CONTROL VALVE KIT: 2 SPOOL VALVE 40L CABLES JOYSTICK CENTER OPEN | eBay It includes the Indemar joystick, a valve and also the cable end adapter parts that connect to the valve body. The end parts might make it easier to connect to the stock valve but the method i used seems to work quite well. That ebay item is just a bit more than i spent just for the joystick and cables. You would have to purchase BSP and BSSP to JIC fittings to use the valve, which isn't that big of a deal. Also they have that listed with a diverter valve in case you want to go all in!: CABLE REMOTE CONTROL VALVE KIT 2 SPOOL 3SECTIONS 11 gpm 40L JOYSTICK CENTER OPEN | eBay

I'm happy with functional - there's no room to work and as i mentioned previously i'm definitely not an artist when it comes to this kind of work. Thankfully there are very talented folks on this forum that laid out a easy path to follow including @X748SE @badgerland01 @Vasiabikeru plus advice and comments from numerous others. Thank you all for your ideas and encouragement.

I removed some factory zip ties that held the wiring harness in place near the deck lift cylinder and also the power steering lines that go upfront. The hard lines do not need zip ties - they are rigid enough after being installed. May zip tie a rubber isolator to the line but otherwise the hard line will not be seeing zip ties.
 

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Thanks for the info, looking forward to the full build!!!

Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I'd most certainly secure the hard lines to the frame. You don't want them connected only at the fittings, vibrations and machine work (inertia of components when moving over bumps, etc.), over time, could cause leaks.

Mike
 
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Great work @ivel03. I sure would have loved to be able to use a set of tubes instead of hoses. Sadly, EU vs US flares don't match :)

Looks like you're on the right track to having a super machine :) Btw, does your joystick have buttons? They would come in handy for a 3rd function at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Joystick does not have buttons but does have a blank to add them. I don't have a 3rd function at this time so no use to pay the extra for the buttons.

Got the machine back together and found a leak. Turns out i had forgotten to tighten the quick couplers on the factory valve and they were leaking. No other leaks that i've found so far. The joystick needs a bit more adjustment as it doesn't seem to have the curl up speed that it used to. I had to adjust the up down action as well and it's no surprise as i just kinda set the cable adjustments in the middle figuring it'd need fine tuning. This project is mostly done now - there are minor finishing touches left but the hardest parts are done now.

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Most of the work is complete and the joystick is working. Have yet to trim the toolbox and reinstall along with further adjustment of the cables.


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Here's the linkages connecting the joystick cables to the OEM valve. Also pictured is the custom built linkage that connects the dash levers to the new valve that is tucked in the frame pictured above.

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Rear outlet brackets built and installed. Probably should pull it back off and paint it but i wanted to make sure it all fit up first.
 

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Looks great.. and I’m sure it will be very nice using the joystick over the two levers. I’ve thought about doing this, and even bought a stick from someone who started this conversion but never finished it. Though after tackling my 3ph install, I’m a bit gun shy to get back under there.. it’s tight!! Lol. Maybe someday.. if I don’t buy a 1 series first.. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Everyone who converted the valve to joystick said they wish they'd done it sooner - add me to the list! I was able to feather the controls much easier when lifting that lathe into place. I wish i knew you had the parts collecting dust - it was over $300 for the joystick and cables. To do the joystick conversion you mostly have to remove the right rear tire and maybe the fenderdeck depending on how you modify your cup holder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got the minor finishing punch list done today! Have been checking over the machine for leaks - nothing so far! I did secure all of the hard lines to the frame by wrapping with rubber line and securing with zip ties.

I used a cordless die grinder with a carbide burr to enlarge the cup holder in both the fender pan and the tool box. I made it a bit wider than it needed to be by about 1/4" after i changed the bracket that the joystick mounted to for wheel clearance. Ended up putting a plastic cover in between the tool box and the fender pan to hide that gap. I'm sure after a bit of dirt and grass gets on it it won't be noticeable.

I've adjusted all of the cables and everything works great. I noticed that i have much more fine grained controls with the joystick vs the dash levers.

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Closeup to show how not to freehand with a die grinder! :LOL:

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Painted the rear hydraulic outlet bracket.

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Nice!

Mike
 

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Great job!!!
 

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Great work @ivel03. I sure would have loved to be able to use a set of tubes instead of hoses. Sadly, EU vs US flares don't match :)
Brake line flares are not the same as JIC 37° hydraulic flares, either. The "JIC" stands for Joint Industry Council.
 
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