[danbike]

I'm getting ready to change the lubricant on the front axle on my X585. When I went thru the shop manual, I could not find any spec for the torque on reinstalling the drain plug. Has anyone done this before and learned what the correct setting is? Yes, I like to follow rules, so forgive me if I don't want to just use TIGHT as the target.

Thanks in advance.

 

[KHodges]

There's no structural load on them, so "tight" is good enough, as long as they don't leak after you replace them. You can always remove them using a torque wrench, note the reading when they begin to move, and use that as your setting when you retighten them. You know there are three, right? One on the sump at the differential, and one at each steering pivot.

 

[dave_r]

If you want a ballpark number, the torque values for my truck's ('04 Sierra 3500) drain plugs are:
Transmission 25 ft/lbs
Front/Rear Axles 24 ft/lbs
Transfer Case 15 ft/lbs
Engine Oil Pan 18 ft/lbs

 

[danbike]

Thanks to all who answered. Yes I know of the three drains. The post from Dave_R was a real help.

 

[KHodges]

GM specs don't mean much on a Deere. For all that is worth, you could use Toyota's specs for the Tacoma: front axle drain 48 ft-lb, fill 29 ft-lb; rear diff drain 36 ft-lb, fill plug is the same. They're arbitrary numbers if they don't come from the manufacturer. I'm interested in this, too, as I have the same basic machine you have, but there are no listings I've ever found for the drain plugs, and I have the factory service manual for the X748; it just says "Tighten". Closest I've come is this chart, which lists torque values by the size of the bolt, and whether it's dry or lubed. Obviously, you'd assume the bolt to be lubed if it's a drain or fill plug. Scroll down, there are several charts:
Specifications

 

[danbike]

I ended up tightening to 20 ft/lb. No leaks so I'm happy. I really wish Deere would have included their recommendations in the shop manual. I have it also and found that chart.

 

[dave_r]

I don't think you want to torque them by charts that are based off the size of the bolt, as drain plugs can be relatively large (> 13 mm or 1/2"), and may not even be grade 2 or 8.8, could damage any washer present. Those charts are for a bolt clamping two pieces of metal together.

 

[KHodges]

I don't think you want to torque them by charts that are based off the size of the bolt, as drain plugs can be relatively large (> 13 mm or 1/2"), and may not even be grade 2 or 8.8, could damage any washer present. Those charts are for a bolt clamping two pieces of metal together.

That's how I feel, too, but it's the only JD torque specs I can find that aren't listed in the service manuals.
For drain plugs, Deere must feel like, tight enough is tight enough. On most of their engines and gear cases (except transmissions, so far as I know), you're screwing into cast iron or steel, so there's less danger of stripping the threads. Using a crush washer on a drain plug is what I usually do to keep it from leaking without really honking down on it.

Then there's always the "*******" torque values:
One, two, or three white knuckles on the wrench hand, or

Tighten it until it strips, then back off a quarter turn.

 

[eKretz]

If the plug is solid steel and threaded into cast iron, the chart values should be fine. If the plug is hollow inside the threaded portion - or made of or threaded into something other than steel - torque it to a lesser value for sure. The torque values are based on bolt stretch to put the body/head of the fastener in tension, so a chart for steel fasteners based on thread size should be good for any steel fastener of similar hardness. Higher grade fasteners can be torqued higher as their yield strength is higher. A steel drain plug is probably a mid-grade at best.

If those of you unfamiliar with the vagaries think of a fastener in terms of a spring, it's a little easier to understand. The bolt stretches like a spring stretches but to much lesser magnitude. If the yield strength isn't exceeded, when it's loosened it springs back to original length. If the yield is exceeded, the bolt is permanently lengthened, just like when you stretch a spring too far. That weakens the steel. This is why torque-to-yield fasteners (like some automotive cylinder head bolts) need to be replaced any time they're removed.

 

[danbike]

When I bought my X585, I got into a bit of an email discussion(war) with JD technical people. They finally realized I would not shut up when I threatened to show up at the stockholder's meeting to ask the CEO my question. JD finally contact Kanzaki for me and got me the assembly torque for the transmission drain plug. I don't understand why they don't supply that information considering that so many people do their own work. Thanks for the comments. I'm comfortable that 20 ftlbs is fine.

 

[KHodges]

On a completely different subject Dan, what Triumph(s) do you have or have had? I haven't been on a motorcycle since 1987, but I pretty much wore out two different 1972 Daytona Triumphs. Bought the first one as my own 18th B-day present, brand new. Rode it for two years, then chopped it, regretted it immediately, and sold it. Found an identical one and rode it for two more years, put about 40K on the two of them, well maintained but by no means babied. By then, the Jap market was wide open, I went Kawasaki and never looked back. I've never forgotten the great trips I had on those Daytona's though.

 

[BigBlue]

"snug" is the correct torque.