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Discussion Starter #1
New X570 with 54" deck. I have some uneven spots on the acre I mow and I can feel the deck hitting the frame. The deck is leveled properly, I mow at 4" with the scalp wheels ~1/2" from the ground. There are times when the scalp wheels are digging in enough to lift the tractor slightly. The frame doesn't seem strong enough to handle this for long.
I see two options.. Cut down the bump stops down to allow for more movement or go to larger tires and re-level the deck.
I could always lift the scalp wheels a little higher but the cut quality would suffer greatly.
Here's a picture of the deck bump stop, it's about 1/2" from the frame which gives about an 1-1/2" of upward mobility to the edges of the deck.
Any suggestions?
20200627_081421.jpg
 

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New X570 with 54" deck. I have some uneven spots on the acre I mow and I can feel the deck hitting the frame. The deck is leveled properly, I mow at 4" with the scalp wheels ~1/2" from the ground. There are times when the scalp wheels are digging in enough to lift the tractor slightly. The frame doesn't seem strong enough to handle this for long.
I see two options.. Cut down the bump stops down to allow for more movement or go to larger tires and re-level the deck.
I could always lift the scalp wheels a little higher but the cut quality would suffer greatly.
Here's a picture of the deck bump stop, it's about 1/2" from the frame which gives about an 1-1/2" of upward mobility to the edges of the deck.
Any suggestions?
Wow... How fast are you mowing? I have some very uneven spots in my yard that cause the anti-scalp wheels to bottom out but I have never had the deck lift enough to contact the tractor frame. Have you tried slowing way down on the rough areas?

What were you mowing with prior to the X570? Did it have similar problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just barely creeping along in the uneven spots. Mowed with a craftsman lt1000 w/ 42" deck and no scalp wheels so no prior issues. This 54" deck is wide as heck so it makes any uneven spot seem worse.
 

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Uhh, the X570 is a multi-terrain garden tractor, but it is not a rough cut mower designed to handle a rough field. Depending on what you want, you some choices.

You can eliminate the significant bumps and dips in your terrain to make your area match what the X570 can handle well, which is lawn quality.

You can get a rough cut mower that is designed to handle areas that are not close to lawn quality.

You can modify your X570 so it can handle the area better. But, if you don't have lawn quality land, you will find it pretty much impossible to get a lawn quality cut.

There are a lot of threads on cut quality here. I have never seen something that can be done to get a lawn quality cut from a surface that is similar to a field. I have a 0.40 acre area I mow. First with an X300 and now with an X534. The X300 has a 42X deck. I used to mow with the deck all the way up and the deck wheels high. It worked okay, but never gave a great cut. The X534 has the 48X deck. It is both better and worse. The three blades with significant overlap have eliminated the uncut strip in the middle I used to get that required overlapping more than half the deck width. Which made it take almost double the passes it should have. I have the deck wheels set just below the deck lip to keep the deck from scalping completely. This works much better than the 42X which would scalp (since the land is not smooth and has significant local anomalies, potholes and bumps). If you want a really good quality cut, you are going to have to improve the surface. Think lawn roller and fill dirt/sand mix. There are lots of great videos for this process on YouTube. I found them entertaining to watch, but not sure I want to put in the effort.
 

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Just barely creeping along in the uneven spots. Mowed with a craftsman lt1000 w/ 42" deck and no scalp wheels so no prior issues. This 54" deck is wide as heck so it makes any uneven spot seem worse.
That is an issue with the wider decks. That is the primary reason I chose a 48-inch deck on my X500. The problem only gets worse as the decks get wider... 60... 72... inches. Perhaps you can work with the dealer to swap your 54-inch deck for a 48-inch deck.
 

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This 54" deck is wide as heck so it makes any uneven spot seem worse.
Yup, that is your problem. Wrong size deck for the land. Going from 42 to 48, I noticed that the 4 deck wheels and nose roller really help prevent scalping. But, the 48" size requires a much smoother area. The 54" is a whole foot wider than the 42" you were using. It sounds like your land is like mine. The ground tunneling creatures who call it home love making mounds. So the area is anything but smooth.
 

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I would be very hesitant to shorten the deck stops as allowing the deck to raise higher than it was designed could lead to damaging something under the tractor or on the deck.
 

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How new is the X570?
If less than 30 days, you could take advantage of the Deere Promise.
If less than the warranty, you probably don't want to make changes that could void it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just bought it from a private party with only 20 hours on it so no dealer support. I guess I'll raise the scalp wheels and start working on the potholes and dips. A roller build is in the works as soon as I find a suitable tank.
This is my lawn, not really what I would call a rough field. I figured it would be able to handle 2-3" variations in turf.
20200616_180557.jpg
20200616_173224.jpg
 

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The only way for the deck to hit the bump stops like that is if you are basically highsiding the tractor and ride on the deck instead of the wheels, I can't imagine a shorter deck would solve that problem, it just masks the problem and you likely would just end up scalping the high area anyway. I don't know much about that craftsman, but does it have a shorter wheel base? That would elimate the problem more so than the deck size. If there are only sections that do it, you can probably go horizontal to the uneven patch so the tires are straddling the spot that causes the high side. If that's not possible, the most cost effective solution in the long run is to just fix the grading. Trying to modify the tractor to handle that kind of stress will likely wear something out prematurely.

Edit: what about cutting shorter? like 3.5"? That would give you more float movement??
 

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Wouldn't going to a 26" tire in the rear and a 16"' in the front get me close to an inch more of clearance between the frame and deck?
 

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Wouldn't going to a 26" tire in the rear and a 16"' in the front get me close to an inch more of clearance between the frame and deck?
Yes, but your deck might not fit anymore. There usually is not a lot of free space between the wheels and the deck. You can measure it at different deck heights and steering angles to make sure.

As long as the tractor is less than 4 years old, it should still have warranty, but you (PO really) have to let Deere know that you own it now to transfer the warranty.

If one of the tractor wheels goes into a three inch hole, it is like that tire just got a flat. On my X300 the deck will be almost at ground level when that happens, even when it is in transport position. On my 21" mower, when one of the wheels hits a depression, it will scalp. But, I can usually find a pattern to avoid most of the depressions.

Your lawn doesn't look bad, but it doesn't look completely even across every 5' path. This means it is going to be a compromise. I think cutting shorter will make it look worse, but try it and let us know if it works. If it works for you, I will try it too 🙂.
 

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Looks like you have kind of a bowl area in the yard. If the tractor is in the bottom of the bowl, the wider deck may be digging in to the inclined areas in either side. Maybe adjusting your mowing pattern would help.
 

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New X570 with 54" deck. I have some uneven spots on the acre I mow and I can feel the deck hitting the frame. The deck is leveled properly, I mow at 4" with the scalp wheels ~1/2" from the ground. There are times when the scalp wheels are digging in enough to lift the tractor slightly. The frame doesn't seem strong enough to handle this for long.
I see two options.. Cut down the bump stops down to allow for more movement or go to larger tires and re-level the deck.
I could always lift the scalp wheels a little higher but the cut quality would suffer greatly.
Here's a picture of the deck bump stop, it's about 1/2" from the frame which gives about an 1-1/2" of upward mobility to the edges of the deck.
Any suggestions?
View attachment 2463902
My x590 with the 48a does this too at times. Not sure what it is bottoming out? Seen others post the same thing so it not you or your yard regardless of what some say.

Forgot to state that mine is set at 3 inches and it still happens from time to time.
 

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Not sure what it is bottoming out? Seen others post the same thing so it not you or your yard regardless of what some say.
It's pretty simple actually. If your deck wheels are 1/2" from touching the ground and you are mowing at 3", a 3" bump in the ground that hits one deck wheel will try and raise it 2-1/2". That is likely to hit the stop. The wider the deck wheels are apart, the smoother the ground needs to be to get a close cut. If you look at what the professionals use on lawns that need to be cut close and have contours, it is not a wide single plane deck. They generally use ganged reel mowers that are each narrow in with and overlap significantly and allow for each to follow the contours of the ground with each having a full width roller in the rear. They also spend a lot of time and money keeping things uniform. You can get a good cut with a wide deck, but probably not on an area that has significant contours, unless you can figure out patterns that work with the contours. If you have bumps, that probably isn't going to work well.
 

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I don't have a dog in this hunt but this is what happened to me. I mow with a 42" deck and we have a 2 acre flat yard but it has some holes in our front yard where pine tree stumps were ground down and a long shallow trench where a new sewer line was put down which all are hopefully to be filled soon so I try to straddle the holes and mow parallel in the trench. Occasionally a rear tire slips into a stump hole but the deck has never hit the frame and scalping is minimal at worse.
FFwd., several years ago I was recovering from heart surgery and had to hire out my mowing duties and the guy was using a ztr w/60" deck so I showed him the holes/dips and he said ok no problem, well long story short when he finished there were more scalped places in the yard than I have ever seen. I didn't fuss because I was glad to have someone mow for me but I figured that wide deck was the culprit; just saying.
 

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Plant some trees where the bumps are and mow around 'em...? :ROFLMAO:

Either that or till and rake it flat... any idea why the humps are there in the first place?

🍻
 

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We have the 54" deck on my X500 and my wife's X530 and we have about 2.5 acres of pretty uneven ground to mow between our property and my mother-in-law's next door, most of it is more like the "rough field" that Frogmore talked about. We have both decks set to cut at 3.25" and have the gauge wheels set at about 1/2" below the lip of the decks. Even then the decks are almost always bouncing a little bit but they never hit the frame. Our end result is not as smooth of a cut as yours, but we're not looking for perfection, just trying to keep it beat down enough to go about the rest of our lives without it getting too overgrown between mowing.
 

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I use my X540 with 48” deck to mow 5 lawns, alternating with my 52” walk behind. I mow East West one week, North South the next. One yard is a bumpy nightmare around the perimeter from White Pine surface roots. I like to start by mowing the perimeter and flower beds first to blow the grass away from beds. I scimmed the roots off the first time I mowed. A couple mowings later I took wood off the roots again. Turned out I was starting the first two trim laps in the exact same spot. Even though the cut looked nice and even, the tires were starting to pack the soil into tracks, essentially lowering the machine. That’s when I started alternating machines so my checkerboard patterns didn’t start to make ruts. After mowing the lawn four years most of the small bumps and ruts have been “rolled” out, and it’s MUCH smoother. Try not to mow the exact same pattern starting in the exact same spot. It will start to make tire tracks in the soil that will make the problem worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Plant some trees where the bumps are and mow around 'em...? :ROFLMAO:

Either that or till and rake it flat... any idea why the humps are there in the first place?

🍻

This house is only 2 years old, it was built on some old farm land and they only graded and leveled around the house and left the perimeter as it was.
 
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