[bmurph44]

1-Katt asked me if it gave that little puff of smoke when I start it and it does but only when cold starting, he asked so this must common for the 26 HP Kawasaki.....Whats up with that?

2-It has 202 hours on the clock so that means trans-axle fluids and filter change. Is this an easy thing for me to do? They also recommend checking and adjusting valves, I'm going to have to have the dealer do this any ideas on what that's going to cost me?

 

[AVR Mark]

At 200 Hours I changed the engine oil and filter and replaced the plugs and Fuel and Air Filters. I also Adjusted the engine valves myself. I had the transaxle serviced shortly thereafter (last September) at my dealer.

I believe that your tractor will use the same parts for the transaxle.
1 Oil Filter MIA881446 Filter Kit MD $40.43
3 Oil TY22035 $ 3.66
Labor .8 Hours $52.00
Shop Supplies $ 3.10
Freight (UPS) $ 3.70
Sales Tax $ 2.91
Total $113.12

My next door neighbor took it to the dealer and brought it back for me (Thanks Dell!)

The first time I had it done (at 50 hrs) They charged me 1.6 Hrs and 6 TY22035. (?) I also had them pick it up $35.00. Total for the first one was $191.04

I decided to let the dealer service the transaxle for several reasons including waste oil disposal but did what maintenance was easy to get to.

Mark

 

[stladrill]

If you can perform a regular oil change on car/truck/tractor, it's almost the same requirement for the transaxle.

You only need to follow the purging/bleeding procedure after you put the new oil in it.

Bleeding procedure

A. Start and run engine at SLOW idle.
B. While alternately depressing the forward and reverse pedals, engage and disengage the release wheel lever (freewheeling rod).
C. Continue this procedure until the rear wheels start to rotate. This step may take up to 10 minutes to perform.
D. Lower the machine to the ground.
E. With control pedals in neutral, push the machine forward and then rearward to turn the motor rotating group.
F. Start and run the engine at FAST idle.
G. Quickly depress and release the forward and reverse pedals until the machine moves without hesitation.

 

[chuckbob]

Bmurph,

Congrats on your purchase!

chuckbob

 

[KATT]

Engine Tech explained the smoke @ start-up well.
But I have noticed an interesting phenomenon ... It never ever smokes at all, all winter ( below freezing) I don't know what correlation there is between temp and smoking @ start -up ?? BUT there is one ?? :dunno:

 

[jpa2002]

Engine Tech explained the smoke @ start-up well.
But I have noticed an interesting phenomenon ... It never ever smokes at all, all winter ( below freezing) I don't know what correlation there is between temp and smoking @ start -up ?? BUT there is one ?? :dunno:

Is this smoke, or is it from humidity in the air. Mine on initial startup will spit out a little moisture, kindof like our cars on a cold or humid day. Is that what you guys are seeing?

Jon

 

[KATT]

Is this smoke, or is it from humidity in the air. Mine on initial startup will spit out a little moisture, kindof like our cars on a cold or humid day. Is that what you guys are seeing?

Jon

Oh No!! In summer sometimes it looks like an insect fogger and it's definitely oil smoke. I know the difference. ( has to sit at least over night or longer)
It's the nature of that Kawasaki beast, albeit a PITA but I don't care as long as it runs and starts perfectly all the time.

 

[jpa2002]

Oil leaking past the valve seals? Probably not.

 

[MXZRXP]

I notice that If I hold the choke too long I get that puff, if I back off on the choke as I crank it, and get to no choke as soon as it can run on its own (usually just 1-2 seconds) I can avoid the smoke altogether...

makes me feel better, but I am sure there is little effect on the motor, now filling the garage like a fogger is something different altogether, maybe a sticking choke!



.

 

[KATT]

FYI remember from hour 1, right from the factory.

 

[jpa2002]

i don't like it! We need to understand what is going on there. How is the motor oriented. Can someone take a picture so that I can see the valve covers.

Jon

 

[KATT]

Here!! Here is a whole thread on this subject !! Knock yourself out :thThumbsU

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=127295&highlight=kawasaki+smoking

 

[bmurph44]

Here!! Here is a whole thread on this subject !! Knock yourself out :thThumbsU

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=127295&highlight=kawasaki+smoking

Thanks Katt, lot of good information in that thread.

 

[jpa2002]

Still would like pics if someone can get them there or here.

Thanks
Jon

 

[KATT]

Only pics of myKawasaki 26 HP LQ.

 

[8086bruce]

Congrats on the X540! I wouldn't let that little puff of smoke bother you.

 

[bmurph44]

At 200 Hours I changed the engine oil and filter and replaced the plugs and Fuel and Air Filters. I also Adjusted the engine valves myself. I had the transaxle serviced shortly thereafter (last September) at my dealer.

I believe that your tractor will use the same parts for the transaxle.
1 Oil Filter MIA881446 Filter Kit MD $40.43
3 Oil TY22035 $ 3.66
Labor .8 Hours $52.00
Shop Supplies $ 3.10
Freight (UPS) $ 3.70
Sales Tax $ 2.91
Total $113.12

My next door neighbor took it to the dealer and brought it back for me (Thanks Dell!)

The first time I had it done (at 50 hrs) They charged me 1.6 Hrs and 6 TY22035. (?) I also had them pick it up $35.00. Total for the first one was $191.04

I decided to let the dealer service the transaxle for several reasons including waste oil disposal but did what maintenance was easy to get to.

Mark

Called the dealer today they said around $220 to do the trans axle service and adjust the valves. I started looking in my manual and it gave some easy sounding instructions on doing the trans axle service so I'm going tomorrow to get everything I need and do it myself, I will have them to the valves, that's not something I want to try myself.

 

[bmurph44]

If you can perform a regular oil change on car/truck/tractor, it's almost the same requirement for the transaxle.

You only need to follow the purging/bleeding procedure after you put the new oil in it.

Bleeding procedure

A. Start and run engine at SLOW idle.
B. While alternately depressing the forward and reverse pedals, engage and disengage the release wheel lever (freewheeling rod).
C. Continue this procedure until the rear wheels start to rotate. This step may take up to 10 minutes to perform.
D. Lower the machine to the ground.
E. With control pedals in neutral, push the machine forward and then rearward to turn the motor rotating group.
F. Start and run the engine at FAST idle.
G. Quickly depress and release the forward and reverse pedals until the machine moves without hesitation.

Should I warm up the trans axle like you would a motor before changing oil?

 

[stladrill]

Should I warm up the trans axle like you would a motor before changing oil?

Yes it's better but not mandatory.

Here how I do mine, I jack the rear of the tractor, I let drain the transaxle overnight and the next day I fill up the transaxle.
I leave the tractor jack up till the next day, add oil if necessary and finally do the purging procedure.

This way the transaxle purge itself by gravity overnight and take less time to do the "active" purging procedure the next day.

I change the oil in the transaxle twice a year.

 

[Dan33Klein]

Not jacking your thread, but out of curiosity, does the x 540 have a k58/k66or a k72 transaxle?