Wow, screw extractors work really good. Advice please

WOnt be able to weld to that tool steel....

At this point you will need to try some chisels to get the extractor out, then drill the bolt out completely, retap the hole...

Screw extractors/EZ outs are AWESOME for holding down loose paper, or looking like some monster aggressive tools in the tool box...but they never seem to work.

If you think about it..lets say you have an intact 3/8" bolt...threads rusted, seized, and thoroughly galled up...its not moving, so it snaps off.

So why would an EZ out suddenly be able to do what a Grade 8 bolt could not? The EX out, being tapered, at best is going to engage itself on a section of the bit that is about 1/2 the thickness of the original bolt...so it snaps.

Best way, honestly...if it busts off flush, file it as flat as possible, center punch it HARD, and do a 3 step drill out.

If it busts off above level, grind it flat, center punch, and 3 step drill out.

If it busts off below level...an end mill is about the only way...problem is that a drill bit will walk on the beveled surface and get into the outer material. An end mill can run down the hole, cut it flat, then it can be drilled, or end milled through and through.

Looks like he might be able to grab the stub left with vise-grips and twist it back out??...

I have BRAZED a nut to busted taps and E-Z outs and it held well enough to remove them with a wrench...braze isn't as brittle as a weld on that hardened tool steel,and the heat from the torch anneals the hard metal some,making it a bit less likely to snap off...
It wouldn't hurt to heat up the area the bolt threaded into some either,before attempting to remove it....

Just my opinion, but ez-outs are not really designed for rusted stuck bolts. They are designed for bolts broken/snapped off on inside machinery where they are not rusted into the threads. I use ez-outs every day at work and very seldom have them break. The smaller the ez-out, the easier they will break. :trink40:

if the bolt is rusty frist off use some penatrting oil on it.Then if you can get a hold with a good vice grip and back it out,if not,try heat.If that fails use the 3 steep dril method.As far as easy-out,I used them at work but i als payed aroud 100 bucks for mine and never broke one yet and I had the same set for 30yrs. good luck

RED-85-Z51 said:

WOnt be able to weld to that tool steel....

At this point you will need to try some chisels to get the extractor out, then drill the bolt out completely, retap the hole...

Screw extractors/EZ outs are AWESOME for holding down loose paper, or looking like some monster aggressive tools in the tool box...but they never seem to work.

Click to expand...

I have tig welded many some with broken bits some with broken taps some with broken easy outs they all come out don't under not being able to weld tool steel???

Can supply pictures if required.Been tig welding for 25 years.
http://www.markthewelder.co.uk/id69.html
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm


W.

Update- it was from over torque. I almost had enough to get vice grips around but couldn'tget it after trying for about 45 mins. Ready to give up, i called around And half the the machine shops and half told me their was nothing they could do. Found a guy that was willing to try. He was able to get it with his high end press, and only charged me twenty bucks! Success!

wilber said:

I have tig welded many some with broken bits some with broken taps some with broken easy outs they all come out don't under not being able to weld tool steel???

Can supply pictures if required.Been tig welding for 25 years.
http://www.markthewelder.co.uk/id69.html
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm


W.

Click to expand...

With TIG, you can easily have total control of the arc, puddle, and filler metal, and working in a 5/16" hole is not that difficult..however most people do not have an adequate TIG welder, or the skill to operate such a machine accurately enough to do such a repair. I imagine with a tig you probably could weld tool steel, however with Stick welding, and Mig welding (gas shielded and flux cored), Ive found it nearly impossible to get an adequate weld with tool steel and a nut.

RED-85-Z51 said:

With TIG, you can easily have total control of the arc, puddle, and filler metal, and working in a 5/16" hole is not that difficult..however most people do not have an adequate TIG welder, or the skill to operate such a machine accurately enough to do such a repair. I imagine with a tig you probably could weld tool steel, however with Stick welding, and Mig welding (gas shielded and flux cored), Ive found it nearly impossible to get an adequate weld with tool steel and a nut.

Click to expand...

You are correct.

That is the problem with these forums in general you will get a handful of posts that people respond with my uncle did it,the guy across the street has and it should work their grandfather did it all the time..And meanwhile the poster only has a 110 volt Chinese mig machine borrowed from his neighbor and jumps in and ends up with a ruined project from the lack of skill and inadequate equipment.

W