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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wow, It's quiet here on this forum. Where is everybody? :howdy:

Anyhoot, I have a new discoveries I'd like to share for anyone that followed my loader delama. :crybaby:

I noticed this morning while moving some good snow, and the tire chains gripping good in the ice, that my tractor was not as powerfull as before. (reference last year)

I was gonna buy a Hydraulic motor assembly from Joe's outdoor, but Now I don't think I Will need it. I discovered by accident where my problem is.

Turns out, I have my frontendloader valve turned down to 1000 psi pressure and it is set before the TCV. So everytime my forward or reverse valve is open, and my Drive motor is taxing over 1000 psi, it triggers my release valve at the loader controler.

I think I am right about that. I feel the oil flowing past the "out" port back to tank, as soon as I bottom hard into the snowbank.
The rear drive wheels do not spin anymore, and If I keep it there pushing, I can feel the oil flowing past and that is how i discovered this. :banghead3

So, Without opening a new can of (Woop A**). I am wondering what you guys think, is it possible that because my loader valve is set at 1000 that the rest of the tractor works at that psi?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Mike,

I am going to look into a solution.

Not much left here to have conversations with. I guess. I see a lot of guests viewing into my thread posts, but they can't comment if they won't log in. :dunno:

Hey fellas? :trink39:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't remember all the configuration of your hydraulics ...

But, if the loader valve has a relief to the reservoir, then certainly that relief would control the whole system, if it is the first component in the system.

Brian
Yeah Brian, it is the first component in the system, and it has a pressure relief set at 1000 psi (remember my video's) and it has a direct return to tank port now that I use the Power Beyond.

Tomorow, I am going to turn up my FEL control valve release up to 2000 psi and re-try moving some snow-banks and well see.

(I'm just glad I didn't buy the motor from Joe's Outdoor already.) I can save a few bucks. Like it has been said before, it's MY money hein! :fing32:
 

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Set the loader relief to the same as the drive relief, or maybe a touch more. Going too high won't gain you anything.

If the loader arms are so poorly designed and made that they will bend out of shape from an off center load, it's past time to find out and rectify the problem. Increasing the pressure from 1000 psi to 2000 psi isn't likely to put much more strain on a properly designed FEL. The rear wheels will just go up in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Set the loader relief to the same as the drive relief, or maybe a touch more. Going too high won't gain you anything.

If the loader arms are so poorly designed and made that they will bend out of shape from an off center load, it's past time to find out and rectify the problem. Increasing the pressure from 1000 psi to 2000 psi isn't likely to put much more strain on a properly designed FEL. The rear wheels will just go up in the air.
Well, so far there is nothing bent or fatigued, I painted it 2 years ago, and it is still going strong, no flakes of anykind, so i assume it is ok. (contrary to what is said on another forum, I never claimed to be a master of anything)

Thank god I still have friends that report to me what is said on another forum.

That being said, I am going to bump it up to 2000 and test it again. It's alittle cold today, but I'll bump it up for my next snowremoval job. :praying:


On a later note: I am so confused as to why someone would go ahead and change his mind on how to plumb a loader control valve system on a 200/400 series, yet, again: "QUOTED" If I was doing this work, I would plumb the loader valve this way. Remove the steel line that is connected to the OUT port of the travel/lift valve and then run a 1/2" ID high pressure hose (3000 PSI) from there to the IN port on the loader valve. The OUT port on the loader valve would then feed into a hydraulic filter mounted on the loader frame in a spot that makes it easy to spin off the cartridge and replace it every 500 hours and then the OUT port from the filter would connect to the steel line that feeds the oil cooler. Of course, you would have to shorten that line to suit. "QUOTED"
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, We got enough snow today, I just finished clearing the driveway, and I ONLY had to bump the loader pressure release valve a couple of hundred pounds to give me the power at the drive wheels.

I'm now dialed in at 1500 PSI, from 1050 PSI. And now the rears chains and all grabs and pushes like crazy.
It's amazing, I'm gettin so used to it now, I also tryed something new, I worked my 3 point grader blade at a right angle, and in reverse when I come back for another pass, I put it down to clean one of the overflow lines left behind.
It makes the driveway look a lot more uniform clean and I love it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·




Just thaught I'd give an update of how the use of this Power Beyond configuration is going.
For the most part, I still find myself struggling with the drive wheels stoping while I work the loader. It gets better with the oil getting warmer but that takes quit some time.
I gave it a real work out after our last snow storm. It works real hard, I am happy to say that it works, but it's not 100% smooth.

I am going to look into replacing the OEM Travel control Valve with a Aftermarket Power Beyond valve, much like the one I have on my loader.

That ough to give "some good PopCorn Reading Material" :fing32:

Will keep yous informed of my progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OH! And a pic of my SnowCaster "concockshion?"

 
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