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Workin' on a Farmall

8K views 98 replies 13 participants last post by  Forest Gump 
#1 ·
I brought this tractor home about a month ago and a couple weeks ago I pulled it into the shop with a HF winch. The tractor belongs to my cousin and he wants me to get it running for him. He also wanted me to get all of the sheet metal put back on and give it a good checking over. Hopefully things go well without to many surprises.
 

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#2 ·
The owner started a 12v conversion so I will need to complete that with a coil, VR, and wiring for the charging system. I had a coil from my parts 350 that still works and today I tested the alternator that came with the tractor and its good.

 

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#3 ·
Looks like a great project!

Bill


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#5 ·
Hopefully it won't take too much work. I know the engine is good because my brother did an inframe rebuild on it probably 15-20 years ago for our uncle. It was driven around a few times its been sitting in my cousins shop ever since. I will be getting another Farmall tractor project as payment for my work.
 
#8 ·
I'd go with a 10SI Delco off a 1970's to late 80's GM that has a built in regulator..
Those older externally regulated ones are usually only 37 amp or 63 at most,and the regulators are fairly expensive and don't like sitting idle long periods..
That alternator is a pre 1971 version which is getting harder to find used nowadays,and costs more at parts stores than an internally regulated one will..
The one advantage of the externally regulated ones is you can rig one up to make 110V DC by full fielding the regulator and run some tools with AC/DC motors with it..but you can do that with an internally regulated one too..
 
#13 ·
I made it out to the shop for a bit today. I found some material to make a bushing for the pivot bolt on the alternator bracket. It had a 1/2" pipe welded on and a 3/8" bolt thru it which allowed way to much slop. Now I need to address the tensioner bracket to get it lined up. I had to remove the fan and pulley to access the bolt that holds it in place. The bolt goes into the water jacket so I need to drain the coolant before pulling it out. Looks like I may need to get a longer belt also.
 

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#14 ·
A couple weeks back I tried to remove the bolts holding the fuel tank. They were really rusty and felt like they were going to break. I've been soaking them in ATF/Acetone every few days and today I tried them again. They all came out with a little working back and forth with out breaking any of them. Now I have good access to the gauges for wiring and can also clean out the fuel tank.
 

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#15 ·
I have heard of others having good luck with ATF and acetone. What mixing ratio do you use?


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#16 ·
50/50, I think I first heard of this on this site years ago and I've been using it with good success for several years. It doesn't always work, but its better that using a torch on the gas tank bolts. :Stop:
 
#18 ·
:thanku: Austen. I thought I would about done with this by now. To many other projects keep pulling me away, but the rain will help keep me in the shop for a few days. Hopefully I'll make some progress.
 
#21 ·
50/50. If you want to try it, a quart of each will do, to start. Acetone can be found in the paint section, ATF, cheaper the better. I watch for partial bottles, or, odds and ends of bottles at auctions, that a case will usually go for a buck. If you find you like as well as I do, you can buy the Acetone in gallons. Here, it's about $13 a gallon. I happened to catch a 2 gallon jug of ATF on sale at Rural King, for $18.

Just be sure you put it in a dispenser you can seal. I use a small dish detergent bottle, with a snap lid. Otherwise, the Acetone will evaporate. It will separate when it sets for a while, just give it a quick shake, and you're good to go.

I've used many types over the years, including PB Blaster, and Kroil, but this mix beats them both..!! Just don't get it on a painted surface, you don't want messed up. The Acetone will take paint off.
 
#22 ·
Swapped out the front wheels that go flat overnight with a set from my parts 350. Started removing wires that are damaged or have been mickey moused by PO's. Found this custom wiring under a wad of electrical tape.
 

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#24 ·
This wire ran from the Generator/Alternator battery terminal for charging the battery. Looking at the rest of the wiring I'm going to have to dig futher into it than I thought to get it straightened out. It was originally a push button start, but now has the newer switch with the start position so I will be able to remove the extra wiring for that. Hope I don't have to redo everything.
 
#25 ·
Got the rewire for the 12v system routed. Just need to test it out and then wrap it. I need to get a new battery ground cable and a water temp gauge. I think I will use my small testing fuel tank for the first test run and if all goes well I can start putting things together.
 

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#26 ·
I like to use the automotive type split plastic tubing loom, for multiple wires. Large to get them all to a common area, then smaller if a few split off, going to say the alternator. Put a few wraps on it, to keep it together, along the way, then wrap with tape at the end of the loom to seal it, and let wires go to their respective location. Make a nice tidy job, and sure beats a lot of wrapping.

You never know, someday down the road, you may want to add another wire, or, for some reason replace one. Sure beats having to cut all of the tape off, then re-wrap.

At the Portland IN. swap met, a fellow there was selling it in 100' rolls for $5, for any size. I bought one roll of 3/8", and hoping he is there in the Spring,as I need to restock on a couple sizes I frequently use.
 
#27 ·
I found a piece of that plastic tubing on an old wiring harness that looks like it will work.

I pulled the carb and found some old fuel crud in the bowl so I stuck it in the sonic cleaner. I should have it back on the tractor tomorrow.
 

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#28 ·
I got the carb put together and installed. Figured I should try to start it so I pulled the plugs to shoot some oil in each cylinder. I noticed some rust in the 2 front cylinders. I shot some WD-40 and oil in and turned it over. That seamed to cut the rust and I could then see a shiny cylinder wall with a nice cross hatch pattern in it. Put the plugs back in and gave it a try. It fired and quit around 6-7 times and then began to run. It sounded like it was only hitting on 2 cylinders at first and then picked up the other two, but would occasionally one would drop out. I think I will check the plugs again and maybe do a compression test. With the rust in the cylinders I may be fighting a sticky valve
 
#29 ·
Where did you get your cleaner..?? HF is having a Grand Opening sale around here, with the opening of their new store, just 6 miles away, 20% off coupon would make it $60. Thinking one of those would be great for cleaning carbs.

Got a recipe for the solution..?? I've read a lot of posts where guys are using Simple Green, or, Dawn dish detergent & water.
 
#32 ·
Its a Harbor Freight item. I have been using straight simple green and have had pretty good results. We bought this model just to try it out and see if it worked. It is a little small for the bigger carb, but so far we have gotten away with rotating to get everything clean. I would definitely go with a bigger unit now that I know how well they work.
 
#30 ·
DJ, I looked at the HF cleaner but thought the interior was too small to do carbs and such in one shot. Plus didn't like the fact that there wasn't a basket to hold parts. Reviews for the most part are mixed, like anything else, but about 20% of them had failures in a relatively short time. I looked around and found that most of the cleaners out there now have electronic controls, of course. But I wanted something with knobs, might be better or not. But at least I could change out a twist control if needed. I found this https://www.ebay.com/itm/382542122615?ul_noapp=true which is a six liter. Yes twice the price at $112 but also six liter. They also carry three liter and at about the same price as the HF 2.5 liter w/coupon. I have ordered the six. Comes with a basket, which I think is nice for small items. Sorry but this post seemed to come out as Ad copy. I'm not selling, I'm buying one. The three also comes with a basket and is avail in both the electronic and manual control. And yes I have also seen the recommendations for Simple Green and Dawn. I'll update after I get it and clean couple carbs that need it.
Now back to our regularly scheduled thread!
MikeC
 
#46 ·
Cjet, What is the size of your sonic bath? is it heated and have a timer on it? Been looking for what I should get.
DJ, Russ,
My 6 liter is on the way. Suppose to be here next week. Bigger basket, plus heat, timer, tank drain. Got a carb just waiting for a bath.
Will report back on how it works. BTW, I opted out of the electronic controls. Manual twist knobs do the same think and I can replace those if they go bad. This is the one I got. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-6L-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Stainless-Steel-Industry-Heated-Heater-w-Timer/382542122615?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908103841%26meid%3D18c782957c154086b79194ae813259ff%26pid%3D100227%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D382542122615%26itm%3D382542122615&_trksid=p2054502.c100227.m3827 They've got the all digital ones from3L and up.
 
#35 ·
After getting the fire going in the wood furnace I pulled the plugs back out of the 340. No wonder it was missing. The No. 2 plug was caked with crud and No. 1 wasn't much better. No. 3-4 still looked good. I cleaned the plugs up again in the glass bead cabinet, installed them, and the engine fired right up. It runs good and smooth now. There is a bit of a whine or howl that sounds like hydraulic pump noise. I need to check fluid levels and see if thats the problem. I'll post a video once its uploaded.
 

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