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Just a heads up safety warning about reading a low voltage on a battery and only hearing a click. (very dangerous situation that is not immediately readily apparent)

Be aware that a good battery can be producing a very high amp output due to a locked engine or bad starter and the battery voltage reading low when the solenoid clicks. Battery can exploded under such conditions so be extra careful.

If you do not have a battery tester that applies a load to the battery or a 600 amp clamp on ammeter to check the starter draw current install a know good battery and if you only get a click check to make sure the engine or starter is not locked.

Also we don't want to get any battery acid on the Farmall.:tango_face_wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #83
I put my battery back in and it starts right away so all is good. Its been raining all day here so I didn't get it out for a drive, but maybe tomorrow as the weather is suppose to be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I was asked if I could mount up a different seat on the 340 since the original was nothing but seat springs with no padding. The owner had this seat already and didn't want to spend the money on a new reproduction. I was able to make an angle iron bracket and weld it on to the original frame to make things work. I also cut 2" out of the height of the battery box to make more clearance between the seat and battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Were you able to take it for a test spin yet?
Made a few rounds in the driveway to try out all the gears and the TA. The TA is working, but doesn't feel like I remember our 350's TA. I'm going to look at the linkage adjustment. The steering is a little stiff feeling so I need to check for lube points. The engine runs good.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Shot some Rustoleum primer on the seat frame and installed it back on the tractor. A few more small details and its ready to go back to the owner.
 

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Hi!! --and good info on reading your work--it looks good from here. Thanks for the detailed explanations and the pictures....

Question here though--I'm not a 'farmer'--so maybe I don't understand why--but why take the rear fenders OFF?--and then save them? Huh?
And why half-azz the wiring on something like a tractor that is a work machine around your place--your livelihood?

Not trying to be funny--just to understand...(??)

glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Nice job. What's the next project?:tango_face_wink:
MikeC
I already started the repairs on our Farmall Super C. Not sure after that, but probably something Hay equipment related.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Hi!! --and good info on reading your work--it looks good from here. Thanks for the detailed explanations and the pictures....

Question here though--I'm not a 'farmer'--so maybe I don't understand why--but why take the rear fenders OFF?--and then save them? Huh?
And why half-azz the wiring on something like a tractor that is a work machine around your place--your livelihood?

Not trying to be funny--just to understand...(??)

glenn
The fenders were off when my uncle bought it and he purchased used one's at a salvage yard. They may have been removed to attach a piece of equipment like a loader. The wiring was also done by some previous owner, but the electrical system still worked. It could have been a field repair and never cleaned up. You never know on these old tractors if the repair's were done out of necessity in the field or mickey moused to just get it running to sell.
 

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My Super C does not have any fenders even from factory. I do not need fenders. I do not use the tractor at high speed going through mud holes. I do not do any plowing when it's muddy.

I suspect installing fenders on a Super C would be mainly just for looks, kinda like putting lipstick on a pig.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Thanks for the reply--I now understand the sequence of events..

Again--tks--

glenn
I'm in the same boat. As I go thru this project I am slowly remembering details and getting clues from cousin who now owns it.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
A short video.

 

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Discussion Starter #98
I think this is the last detail I needed to finish up. Its the upper link for the 3-point hitch adapter. It was rusted solid, but after roasting it 3 times, hammering it on an anvil, it finally loosened up. I got the threads cleaned up and greased so its working good now. I didn't know if I was going to save this one.
 

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Good job.

I've found a torch for heat/cool, and good anvil and lots of patience is your friend when working on old rusty stuff.

The engine sounds real good. Ready to put to work.
 
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