Have you flushed the radiator/engine, check/changed thermostat if one or radiator cap ? The Farmall A does not use a thermostat all only called for water in system unless in cold climates (freezing) and is a non-pressurized system.
The only thing I did with the radiator was to add some coolant. I'll make sure the thermostat is working, but the owner will be responsible for flushing if needed. I will also recommend an oil change after its run for a few hours.
Rust means water (moisture and air), so either an open exhaust valve and no cover on the exhaust stack, or and intake manifold or head gasket leaking from a coolant channel into the cylinder. Run time will tell because a coolant leak will build up crystals on the plugs over time.
Exactly, guess I should have stated further. Now would be a good time to have a bore camera to have a look at the cylinder walls on #2, and maybe give you an idea on what's going on in there.
Yeah, I'd read the reviews,and saw the same, and they did look small to put a full sized tractor carb. in. Like you, I'd rather spend a little more for the right thing... Thanks..!!
Made a road trip today to get some Trans/Hydraulic oil. The oil in the trans now has water in it. It has a milky yellow appearance to it. I also picked up a water temp gauge and a new oil gauge line. The old oil line is rust pitted to the point of leaking when the tractor is running.
The tractor belongs to my cousin so when I get the work done that was agreed upon it will be going back to his place. I'll am trading my labor for a Farmall H project so I will be bringing that home when this goes back. Here is a couple pics.
Thanks, DJ54. The engine was pulled out for a rebuild decades ago and sat in dads shop for many years and the tractor was parked in our barn until my cousin got his shop finished and towed it to his place.
I looked up the serial number and found its a 1945 model. It has the X5 suffix on the serial # tag which according to the book I have says that is a 5,000-foot altitude tractor. As I remember it the engine has pop-up pistons in it. We'll see when I get all the parts home. Hopefully not to much has been lost after being torn down for so long and moved.
Another problem with this tractor is the hydraulics didn't seem to be working. The 2-point lift wouldn't lift or drop when I move the lever. I drained the trans out today, pulled the filter cover, and found the round screen in the filter was completely plugged with thick gooey crud. I'm assuming the filter is plugged with the same stuff. I'm hoping this might be the problem with the lift.
I'll beak open some lines and the cylinder and drain them out good before refilling. I'll talk to the owner and see how far he wants me to go. If the new filter and oil change get the system working I'll tell the owner to run it a while and change the oil again, but that will be his decision. If it was mine I would pull the top off the trans to make sure everything is cleaned up as good as possible. I might be able to look thru the fill hole to get an idea what it looks like.
The lower shaft on the PTO has been leaking oil since I pulled the tractor in the shop. Figured this was a good time to put a new seal in so I dug the old one out and i will see if NAPA has one tomorrow. Now that the trans has drained really good I looked through the fill and drain plug holes and it looks clean inside. I cracked open the engine drain plug to see if there was any water or antifreeze in the oil. Not a drop of either came out.
I checked around several parts stores including the Case IH dealer for the PTO seal and nobody had one in stock. I ordered a new one from NAPA that will be here next Tuesday. The only thing I did on the tractor was clean the screen and install the new hydraulic filter.
Filled the trans with Hy-Tran and fired it up to try the Hydraulics/2-point Lift. The hitch goes up and down now so the plugged filters must have been the problem.
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