Workin' on a Farmall

The owner started a 12v conversion so I will need to complete that with a coil, VR, and wiring for the charging system. I had a coil from my parts 350 that still works and today I tested the alternator that came with the tractor and its good.

Looks like a great project!

Bill


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Smalljob said:

Looks like a great project!

Bill


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Hopefully it won't take too much work. I know the engine is good because my brother did an inframe rebuild on it probably 15-20 years ago for our uncle. It was driven around a few times its been sitting in my cousins shop ever since. I will be getting another Farmall tractor project as payment for my work.

RussKish said:

cjet69, Is that a Delco alternator? If so you may not need a VR, because the VR may be built in. I have a 12 volt conversion on the Farmall A. The ignition is still a magneto though.

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It is a Delco but, its not internally regulated(see link). I have one just like it on one of our JD's.

GM Alternator Identification

I'd go with a 10SI Delco off a 1970's to late 80's GM that has a built in regulator..
Those older externally regulated ones are usually only 37 amp or 63 at most,and the regulators are fairly expensive and don't like sitting idle long periods..
That alternator is a pre 1971 version which is getting harder to find used nowadays,and costs more at parts stores than an internally regulated one will..
The one advantage of the externally regulated ones is you can rig one up to make 110V DC by full fielding the regulator and run some tools with AC/DC motors with it..but you can do that with an internally regulated one too..

RussKish said:

Cjet69, Thank you for the link I will have to go back and double check the A!:thThumbsU

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Here is another article on these: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/generator-help-asap.812606/

Post #8 has a good pic.

And another: older style Delco alternator confusion, 1 wire possible, or not?

I made it out to the shop for a bit today. I found some material to make a bushing for the pivot bolt on the alternator bracket. It had a 1/2" pipe welded on and a 3/8" bolt thru it which allowed way to much slop. Now I need to address the tensioner bracket to get it lined up. I had to remove the fan and pulley to access the bolt that holds it in place. The bolt goes into the water jacket so I need to drain the coolant before pulling it out. Looks like I may need to get a longer belt also.

A couple weeks back I tried to remove the bolts holding the fuel tank. They were really rusty and felt like they were going to break. I've been soaking them in ATF/Acetone every few days and today I tried them again. They all came out with a little working back and forth with out breaking any of them. Now I have good access to the gauges for wiring and can also clean out the fuel tank.

Smalljob said:

I have heard of others having good luck with ATF and acetone. What mixing ratio do you use?


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50/50, I think I first heard of this on this site years ago and I've been using it with good success for several years. It doesn't always work, but its better that using a torch on the gas tank bolts. :Stop:

Cleaned a bunch of crud out of the fuel tank. Its not perfect,but its as good as I can get it without lining it. The fuel bowl valve can hardly be turned so I pulled it and will tear it down for a good cleaning tomorrow.

Made a parts run to NAPA and picked up a 1" longer belt and a wiring harness pigtail for the voltage regulator. I already had the new VR on the shelf. I think I have everything I need to get the wiring done now.