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Discussion Starter #1
Hi gang,
I am working on my dad's newly acquired bolens 1053 and I have it completely stripped down now ready for sandblasting. The one thing I am not sure about is the motor. It was abviously leaking from the head for a very long time, it wasn't the easiest to start but once it started it ran alright. You could see the exhaust coming out the back of the head gasket when you would rev it. There was also a little oil in the air intake and there was oil in the breaker box. When I took the head off there was some fresh oil close to the gasket edges. I know i read in the manual about cleaning the reed valve which I did pull valve inspection cover off and from what I seen in the manual the screw is supposed to be straight up and the reed is flat. The screw in are motor is at an angle and doesn't seat square and the reed valve has a bend in it right in the middle.

The cylinder walls look good and surprisingly I thought there would be a lot more carbon in the head then what there was. The piston fits nice at the top of the bore but when you put it down to the bottom of the stroke it looks like it gains more room. Are the cylinder walls tapered? Could the combination of the reed and head gasket leaking be the cause of most of the oil that was found?
 

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I've never been crazy about all the pieces that bolt onto the head bolts on a Bolens tractor,I don't think you get the proper torque on all of the head bolts.Mine leaks a little oil up past 2 of the head bolts that hold the fuel tank on,it's not that bad and it's usually a little worse when it's cold.If you can see gas escaping around the rear of the head,that could cause it to start hard.You could try resurfacing the head using a piece of glass/window pane with a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on it but I would replace the head gasket also.Your cylinder sounds like it may have some taper,that usually isn't a big problem because it only really needs to seal at TDC but it could be giving you some extra pressure in the crankcase and that will cause it to force more oil into the breather also.Eventually the taper in the cylinder will start to cause the piston skirt to slap the cylinder wall and give you a knocking noise and then if it's not taken care of,it'll break a piston skirt and cause more damage.Without seeing the engine or how much wear your talking about and not knowing how much use the tractor gets,it's hard to say how long all that would take.
 

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Sounds like the head gasket needs to be replaced, The manual states that oil in the breaker box is the direct result of faulty breather action caused by dirt stuck between the reed and seat. replace the reed if it becomes disfigured This condition can be remedied in the following manner
1) with engine running at operating speed , pinch neo-prene breather line so that it is completely shut-off
2) hold tube closed for a period of not more than 20 seconds, and then release.
3) If oil leak continues, repeat procedure after a 5 minute interval. If this does not remedy the condition, stop engine and take off valve inspection plate. Remove breather reed and clean seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I appreciate the info, I wonder if the head bolts that are used to support other items like the gas tank couldn't be switched over to studs with a nut to torque the head then another nut to hold whatever item in place, I know it might create spacing issues but I might check in to it. The motor sounded good when it did run. I think it was mainly gas that was coming out of the intake, the carb needs rebuilt badly, they had like some sort of putty that looked like dried tooth paste holding the choke lever on LOL. There were like three head bolts that were only finger tight. I think the head may be a little warped, maybe .020, just enough to make it rock without a gasket. I was thinking about getting it together and then over the winter rebuild it completely.
 
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