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Discussion Starter #1
Well i got this 8hp wisconsin robin for free a while back, along with a 3.5hp briggs (both horizontal). The briggs burns oil, and this doesnt have spark. At first i though it was a CDI style ignition, like a dirtbike or sled would use, but its not, its got the normal coil pickup like you see on most engines, its just set up weird. There is a jumble of wires, theres two boxes on the outside, one is for the low oil sensor, the i have no idea? Any info i could get on this engine would be great, wiring diagrams, manuals, anything. I took pictures of the model numbers and whatnot also.

Coil

Charging maybe? dont know...


Not exactls sure what this is?

Two wires coming out of unidentified box, theres also two coming out of the pickup coil.


Low oil sensor plug thing

Built in gear reduction box, i'm planning on using it on my go kart, with belt tensioner clutch (since a centrifugal, or cvt would be a paint to set up).


Model

spec number

overview, the guy told me it was 8hp, but now that im looking, theres nothing saying what size it is? looks substantial, so i dont doubt that it is.



Long thread for a little problem, but i figure the more info i give the less questions ill have to answer.
 

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I'm no help as far as the ignition questions,never had a Wisconsin Robin to play with yet!---...
---but if you use that on a Go-cart,your right about using an idler and a belt--it wont spin fast enough to make a centrifical clutch engauge at all-- you'll need to use a pulley on the engine as large as the wheel pulley is too,if its got a 6:1 ratio gear reduction box...because most carts and mini bikes have about a 6:1 ratio from the engine to the rear wheel..(most have like 10-12 teeth on the clutch and 60 or 72 on the rear sprocket)..

You could also rig up a jackshaft to step up the PTO speed back to "normal" though..use a sprocket 6 times larger on the engine, than the one driving the jack shaft..

I put a 5 HP 6:1 gear reduction Briggs on a go cart when I was about 15,and was dissapointed to find it would not even engauge the belt style centrifical clutch ,even wide open,since the PTO shaft only spun at 600 rpms instead of 3600 rpm like the crank was!..

I ended up using belt drive with a manual idler "clutch" to tighten the belt with a clutch pedal instead..

I used a 3" pulley on the engine and a 8" on the rear wheel,and it topped out at a blazing 12 mph,but could climb any hills I wanted too..I later found a 6" one to fit the engine and it went nearly 30 mph then,with a lot of loss of acceleration and hill climbing power..Looking back,I think I should have left the smaller pulley on the engine and just put taller back tires on it instead!..
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yea, i did some math, and figured if i run a 6" on the engine, and 4 on the axle, i should get about 35mph with plenty of power. The gear reduction in the box is a bit more than 6:1, its almost 7:1, so the 1:1.5 reduction countering the 7:1 should leave me with a 4.6666:1 ratio. The calculated speed of that, with the 15" tires i have should be around 35. Right now its got a 5hp tecumseh and a 6:1 reduction, with centrifugal clutch. The engine is powerful enough, but the clutch just sucks.

Just went out and started testing stuff with the multimeter. Resistance from sparkplug wire to ground is 12k ohm. when i turn it over with multimeter to ground and sparkplug wire, i get around 20-30v, in dc mode, didnt try AC mode?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, so i took off the other winding, and it turns out it just has 2 green wires coming out of it. I also removed the panel with the low oil sensor box, and the other unidentified box. The unidentified box has a red and a black wire coming out with male couplers, the coil that has the sparkplug wire has a red and black wire coming out also, black is male red is female coupler. The other coil has the two green wires, which are both female. I wanted to get rid of the low oil sensor anyways, so i guess all i need is the unidentified box and the two coil pickups under the flywheel? im really stumped on this one, never even looked at a wisconsin engine before this.

Got some pics also. (crappy phone quality again...)

Wires coming from the sparkplug coil.

Wires from unidentified box

green wires coming from other coil
 

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i have a wisconsin motor that had spark,then didn't.checked around for partsfound some but couldn't find the one in your last photo.it's a trigger moudular that tells the motor to spark,of course that was my problem.you can replace it with a john deere part as i did .the part only has one wire comming off of it instead of two,hook up one and you should be good to go.
 

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just went to the shop to check out which wire to hook up,it;s the black one.i had to make up a different wire connection since the jd part has a post connection.replacement part number bm11,i just tied the red wire back with electric tape.just think i replaced the coil and all the time it was the little unidentified part that was replaced by luck.last thing iwired my on off switch to black wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Awesome! I had given up on this engine, but there my be hope yet! So im a little confused on which wires go where? there are two off the coil, and two off the little box?

Can you link me to the page where you found the part? I cant find one anywhere under BM11?
 

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there are three wires comming off the main coil one to spark plug 2nd&3rd black &red.I didn't use the red wire,just the black wire.I have no book just not as much hair,as it is all on the shop floor.The original part was bad,it worked one minute then failed me when i went to use the tool (plate compactor) trial and error prevailed.the part are used on many jd lawn tractors,it's about one tenth the size of the original and only has a single post comming off of it.I just hooked the black wire to it and pow it started.My machine doesn't have a low oil shut off'so i can't help you there.Time for you to play.My machine had no spark,maybe youre part isn't bad.good luck!
 
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