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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
There is no question in my mind that you will be adding A/C in the summer.
If you mean “remove the cab”, you’re right! Lol!

It’s easy enough: 2 bolts and two pins and the rear drops off, 4 bolts and the front lifts off. Then it’s open air motoring.

Or: drop the rear, pop the doors off and I can even slide out the front window if I want. That would make it wide open, but keeps the roof as a sun shade.

Easy peasy!

;)
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Took a little time today and added a “backup camera”:







Nice! Now I won’t have to try and twist my broken back and neck around to see behind the tractor when plowing.

The “lane lines” are internal to the camera itself. They look a little messed up because instead of it pointing out the back, I have it pointing straight down so I can get an accurate view of the distance to whatever I’m backing up towards.

It’s all Surplus bits I had lying around. The camera and monitor are ebay pieces I picked up years ago for a song and have been lying around ever since. Seems like a good way to finally get them off my parts shelves!

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
There we go, windshield defrosting/defogging:




It does both heat and fan, but it’s mostly just for a fan. 12v heaters burn up a lot of power and don’t produce much heat.

I put it on the “flex mount” so I can point it at a side window if needed. If I really need to get it close, the on/off switch is on a handle that folds out and I can take it off the mount to point it (like a hair dryer) right where I want it.

Next up: figuring out a cabin heater...;)
 

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Loving all of the gadgets. When you need to add a switch bank, you know it's serious!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Time to rig up some HEAT.

But being an air cooled engine meant I needed to figure out a creative solution. I wanted to stay away from the exhaust piping (CO concerns), so I went for cyl head heat instead:







Don’t mind the messy looking spot welds. The metal I used is very thin and hard to mig properly. Once fully welded, I’ll hit it with a flap wheel to smooth it out and then a shot of gloss black will make it look spiffy!

;)

The pictures don’t really tell the tale of whats happening in there very well. I made a new sheet metal shroud for underneath the LH cylinder. That will capture some of the cooling air from the engine fan.

The part you see with the hose clamp on it is actually a fan housing. I took a 12v motor with a fan on it, split a section of exhaust pipe in half, made a “spider” to hold the motor in the middle of the pipe, slit the top piece for clearance and clamped it back together.

The lower half is welded to the shroud and the upper half has a brace to the top engine shroud. A simple “on/off” switch will control the motor. If the fan motor ever packs it in, all I have to do is loosen the hose clamp, pull the top of the housing off and slip in another 12 motor.

For ducting, I took an old shop vac hose and the part that would have gone into the shop vac body fit the fan housing ID perfectly. Then I ran the hose out through the steering pylon into the cab area. All I have to do is put a round port on the access panel and connect the hose to the port. Eventually, I’ll put a postion-able/closeable louver over the hole, mostly so I can close it off in summer. I expect a little airflow through the hose, but turning the fan on will give me a quick charge of warm air and then turn the fan off when I’m feeling warm enough.

To be clear: the “heater” isn’t meant to make it “t-shirt” temperature in the cab, just raise the internal temps a few degrees to help with the window fogging and just a tiny bit of heat/comfort to take the bite off the cold inside the cab.

:)
 

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I'm so confused. How do you draw in head cooling air without exhaust?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I'm so confused. How do you draw in head cooling air without exhaust?

Mike
The exhaust points out the RH side, under the engine deck and rotated to about 45 degrees rearward. The air from the LH cylinder is on the opposite side and above the engine deck. The area I’m taking heated air from is a good 3-4 feet away from the exhaust pipe opening.

The engine fan is also blowing fresh air down over the cylinder head from the intake “louvers” in the hood. Thats the air I’m using to “steal” some engine heat.

Minimal chance of any CO making it into the cab. At least from the heater system it’s minimal. CO just finding it’s way into the cab on it’s own is a different story...
 

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Ok
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Aaaaannnndddd:



Air outlet. I just cut a hole in the access panel, glued in a fitting and shoved the hose on the back. Powered up the fan motor and lots of air pumping out. Should work half decent to take some of the chill off cold winter days. I’ll have to rig up some kind of “deflector” so the air goes a bit more “up” instead of straight into the sheet metal under the seat, but thats a simple task.

Summertime will just require a plug that fits in the opening to keep hot air from reaching the cockpit. Well, no more than usually makes it back there that is!

Lol!

:)
 

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My "cab" is made by Carhart. :)

I got my JD 1010 for grading my driveway too, but I only do it once or twice a year. And not in the winter.

Really nice job, though!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Finally got to take it out for a drive.

The “heater” works, even without a fan. The engine pushes warm air up the ducting all on it’s own. It’s not super hot, but it is warm. It should be enough to just take the chill out. Still have to wire up the fan, so I couldn’t tell if it was going to push more warm air into the cab, or make the air too cool while pushing it.

The opening at the top of the windsheild is going to need a “flap” or cover of some sort. While driving, lots of cool air came in over the top of the windshield. Not a big deal, I’ll just use some jean or rubber fabric to close it off.

I had made a rubber edge for the plow. I’m tired of the steel strip scraping the asphalt, so I tried making a rubber edge out of a horse stall mat like I’d read. Well, sidn’t work out the way I’d hoped. Inatead of sliding, the rubber just chattered across the pavement. Soon, the whole trator was bouncing and shaking. So, i had to take it off. I may look to see if I can get some thick hard plastic and give that a go....
 

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I loved your build with the Murray, and this cab just takes it up a notch. You've got both skills and creativity, and that is a great combination.

Excellent job on the cab, on the tractor, and on that beautiful 8x8.
 

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Nice work! I don't see a windshield wiper, which you will probably need for blowback. On occasion I wouldn't have been able to see anything without it.
 
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