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Wing when you get the pool full let me know. I have a truck or two that could use a dip:bananapow :bannana:
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
This is what 80 year of neglect looks like after 80 years the rust is gone, all that is left is the original paint and primer.

Rustbeeter is not part of "electrolysis" method of removing rust!

Rustbeeter
Rustbeeter all you do is had tap-water, mix, and place in part.
Rustbeeter is non-toxic, no dangerous fumes or gases, no fire hazard, no electricity, and does not irritate skin.

Electolysis
-Make sure no spills can get to the battery charger. (electrocution potential as with any electric appliance)
- The leads from the charger are relatively safe, but you may still get a bit of a shock if you put your hands in the solution or touch the electrodes while the charger is running.
- Turn off the current before making adjustments to the setup. Just as a "spark" can cause a charging battery to explode in your face, this process produces similar gases because this process splits water into hydrogen gas (at the negative electrode) and oxygen at the positive electrode).
- Hydrogen will burn explosively if ignited. All flames, cigarettes, torches, etc. must be removed from the area, and sparks caused by touching the leads together must be avoided. The work should be performed outside or in a well ventilated area to remove these gases safely.
- Washing soda solutions are alkaline and will irritate the skin and eyes. Use eye protection and gloves. Immediately wash off any solution spilled or splashed onto your body.

There is one thing that was not noted on the electolysis webpage is that was that with cast iron you need to cook it for 3 hours a 300ºF (not preheated) because Hydrogen will get into the pores of cast iron, if it is a engine block or head; they will fracture if hydrogen is still present.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
This is my last picture of before and after, I think I have run this thread into the ground.

It prove to me that Rustbeeter is easy to use and it works!

Sure the socket does not look new, but it is usable now Rustbeeter paid for itself just in de-rusting tools alone.

Sure it may cost a little more up front, but it soon pays for itself 10 fold.

Its available at: http://www.rustbeeter.com/

Its a Wingnut Recommended Product :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Rust Beeter has been very very good to me.

So I am increase tank size to do large part like rims using a 50 gallon bucket!

The smell is unforgetable so it has been moved away from the house!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Back to the Rustbeeter I have been having great success using on the Chevy parts and old rusted tools that after I upgraded the bucket size I have still using a diluted mixture, but I keep the parts in for weeks to month at a time. The base metal is not damaged, but I will have problems digging out the parts later. I am very interested on seeing how well the rim cleans up that I have placed in the vat a week ago.

With this vat I have the capability of soaking 4 rims at a time or a full block. Right now I am soaking a full set of sockets, various small parts, steering column tube, split rim, gearshift, and transmission gears. Now the smell is awful, but it’s not toxic or caustic but when a north wind hits it is like nothing else blowing across the front yard.

Rustbeeter is not those who want instant gratification, it is for those people who have a week or more to wait before doing any work on the item. I would use naval jelly inside fuel tanks because of possible contamination from residual fuels. The situation does dictate the methods and I would use Rustbeeter if the tank exhibits no fuel odor and no visible residue.

I need to get the post holes marked for digging by Friday once I get all the post stand a third of the battle will be over. I need to buy concrete for the poles and a new shovel for mixing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Three years later this stuff is still effective, but it has a strong fruity odor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The wheels had holes that had to be fill, since they are balloon tires they use tubes. There was lot of mig welding and grinding, plus a little JB Weld fill is some superficial pits.
 

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Isn't rustbeeter the same thing as citric acid?Guys on the MB forums use cheap citric acid and it works just as well and is way cheaper.

Here's a flywheel one of the guys did on superturbodiesel.com.It had been in the weather for decades.It didn't make it 100% perfect but good enough to face the clutch surface and balance.






 

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If citric acid does that--I bet with all the lemons I eat,my pipes are clean as a whistle.:biglaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
It not an acid and it has no penetration properties, the microbial in the sugar beets feed on iron oxides AKA rust.
 
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