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The Admin from... Nowhere!
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So, many of you have seen the lights I have mounted on the back of Littletractor... I had originally just surface-mounted them with epoxy, but that's not working out so good.... Epoxy just doesn't cut it... So, in looking at the lights, I can see that if I were to cut a 2 1/8" hole for each light, I could put the rubber light mount through the hole, and stick the light into it and viola! permanent light mounts... Conveniently enough, I have a 2 1/8" hole saw for cutting door knob holes... So here's the question... Will the holesaw pictured below be enough of a holesaw to cut through the deck metal of my JD 160 WITHOUT taking a week, or am I just going to wreck my paint?


I'm kinda nervous about cutting holes this size in my tractor, so I want to make sure I've got the right tool....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe I'm missing something. Why are you mounting lights in your deck?
Too many things called decks! :) Yep, my FENDER deck, sorry! Although a nice set of LEDs around the base of my 38" mower deck WOULD be cool, for those night-time mowing jobs!
 

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If you check with a good auto supply house you will be able to get some very nice brackets those lights will mount in. The saw you have may or may not be made to cut steel. As stated if it's bi-metal then it will work. I've seen saws made for putting in locks that were made for wood only and will dull if used on steel.

One other thing, some truck light grommets require 2 1/8" holes but there are some that are just a tad smaller. Being made by some other manufacturer I guess. I don't recall the size right now but the smaller ones tend to fall out of the 2 1/8" holes.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
make a bracket to hold the light, mount the bracket to the tractor.
Ya, that's my other choice, if I can find my tin snips and cut some long, thin slices of tin to run around the plastic base... Just I'm better with hole saws than I am with tin snips...
 

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Your not adding to many lights to your "power" system are ya LTG? I would hate to see ya melt something or just not have the power to run it.. Is there a spot to mount a bracket under the fender pan and have a single light in the middle at the rear?
 

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The chrome mounting brackets for dash gauges are 2-1/8" ,I'd opt to use those rather than cut holes in the tractor...but a bi-metal hole saw will chow right thru easily,use slow speed and some oil to lube it up good..I used a 3-1/4" one to cut out the center hole on 4 car/trailer rims so they would fit over my tractors hubs and I ruined 2 electric drills,but the hole saw survived just fine!..
 

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I've seen these mounts before, couldn't find a picture showing exactly what I mean, but this will give you an idea. They make these in a single mount, chrome for the smaller lights you are talking about. If you have a truckstop near you, try there. I'm sure you can find them online, I just looked at the first site that came up on google.

 

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What brand hole saw ? And you better be real good as thin metal has a tendancy to wallow out the pilot drill hole and thus you are left with a larger hole than you planned for! So be careful !
As for Bi-metal all that means is the hole saw has tool steel teeth welded to a flexable backer, All or most all will cut steel and or wood,plastics etc. How do I know this? that is what my place of employment makes... Thousands of them, from 3/4" up to 6".
 

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I would lubricate the holesaw with WD40 as you were drilling through the thin sheet metal to help prevent the holesaw from binding and gouging when it comes through the thin steel. Be sure to check for the right RPM for the job too.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Your not adding to many lights to your "power" system are ya LTG? I would hate to see ya melt something or just not have the power to run it.. Is there a spot to mount a bracket under the fender pan and have a single light in the middle at the rear?
Nope, these are the same lights I had on there before, I just want to actually MOUNT them instead of sticking them on with epoxy... :)
 

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NO! That is a wood bit. Your teeth are too far apart. As soon as it bites in, it will sheer the teeth off and leave you a mess of your deck.
 

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Look around for an electrician that has hole punches. I bet a six pack and a 20 will get the holes you need and will be very clean.
 

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It'll work if you want to go that way.

Mark where you want the center of the light to be. Center punch the mark and pre-drill a pilot hole to keep it from squirming and screwing up the paint as you make the cut.

I do **** like this all the time!!
 
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