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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so thought I was ready to go for winter had my recently resorted simplicity 3415 ready to go with electric lift and dozer blade, had been doing great moving dirt. Now winter seemed to come early this year and once the temp dropped below 45 no matter what I tired I could not get it to start plenty of spark good compression and fuel. Did some reading narrowed it down to maybe intake gasket, this compiled onto me already hating this carburetor with a passion (two rebuilds and still leaked) so long story short I made my own intake manifold and added a miniki carb off a vtwin kohler. Just got done bending a new rod to connect it to the governor going to try and start it in the morning who thinks it will work?
 

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Guess it all depends on how close the throat size and jetting matches the carb you are replacing. Worth a try.?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm rooting for you at least!! <img src="http://www.mytractorforum.com/images/smilies/sidelaugh.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Sidelaugh" class="inlineimg" /> Looks good to me, might take some adjusting to get everything correct though.
Guess it all depends on how close the throat size and jetting matches the carb you are replacing. Worth a try.?
Throat size matched up good not sure on jets, I have a couple smaller carbs I can try if this doesn't work. I was able to do a similar mod to a vertical cast iron Briggs that worked pretty good
 

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May work fine. My thoughts are it might work better if the carb was directly on the block, not doing the updraft thing. But then getting the linkage, governor etc to work would be more of a challenge.
 

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Seems like a fairly well thought out project. When I read the title of the thread before I clicked on it, I thought it was going to be a "hold my beer and watch this" sort of stunt.

May work fine. My thoughts are it might work better if the carb was directly on the block, not doing the updraft thing.
I thought that when I first looked at the picture, but after staring at it for a while I think it might just be the camera angle, and the elbow in the pipe goes sideways, not down.
 

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I have swapped some carbs on engines they were not designed for and most ran very well without having to mess with the jet sizes,all I had to do was fine tune the idle and hi speed mixture screws..

I had a mini bike with a 3-4 HP Briggs horizontal that had the Pulsa-Jet carb that mounts on the gas tank--it leaked where it seats on the tank and a backfire from the muffler when I let off the throttle caught the gas tank on fire ,I had to leap off it going 20 mph,was lucky I didn't get injured bad or burned..I decided that setup had to go..

I made up a intake manifold from pipe and flanges to mount the carb were made from plumbing "waste nut flanges" that happened to match the two bolt pattern on the carb and engine,all I had to do was screw them to the pipes at the proper angle (so the carb bowl was level and the other flange "tilted" to bolt to the engine)--then I brazed the flanges in place so the manifold couldn't move..

I used a float type carb off a later Briggs push mower engine that tossed a rod ..one that still had the mixture adjusting screws,not a "fixed jet" emissions type.the venturi size was almost identical to the original carb..

The engine started easier and felt more powerful with that carb on it--had to mount a gas tank on the frame in front of the seat to feed it..

Some Tecumseh 10 HP horizontal engines had a float type carb that had a intake manifold that was like an "L",it put the carb down lower and facing sideways compared to most other horizontal engines..and they ran decent,so the intake manifold can be something that looks like it wouldn't work good,but does anyways..

Some friends have made their own intakes and used carbs off newer engines on antique engines they couldn't find original parts for too,the hardest part is if you need the govenor to work ,you'll be inventing custom linkages and bell cranks and have to fiddle with the adjustments to get it working properly..
 

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Could you use just a 45 degree off the block intake port? Might help with mixture flow.

BUT THE BIG QUESTION:

Did it work???!!!!...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could you use just a 45 degree off the block intake port? Might help with mixture flow.

BUT THE BIG QUESTION:

Did it work???!!!!...
Well nope but I Don't believe it's a carb issue now I just pulled the engine and going to check the flywheel key. Also ordered a new head gasket I think it has an air leak somewhere bc I could even get it to pop and it had good spark and was getting plenty of gas. I'll keep you posted a guys posted just waiting on parts to come
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well guys got it figured out, I had a new electronic ignition coil come today threw it on went to check it was getting spark and she fired right up with just the ethor left in there so after work going to throw it back in the tractor and I'll give it a try with the new carb just to find out but will probably end with original on there
 

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Hooray! Hope it goes well the rest of the way, and congratulations, good detective work.
 

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One thing I did notice and was wondering is there a fuel pump involved or gravity feed because from the pic of your new trial set up the fuel line appears to take quite a dip before going up to the carb. Interested to see the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update It did work, great actually it started right up with the vtwin carb I need to adjust the carb and linkage a bit because the engine sounded to be at full power at about half throttle. I'll try to get a vid when it's all worked out
 

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One thing I did notice and was wondering is there a fuel pump involved or gravity feed because from the pic of your new trial set up the fuel line appears to take quite a dip before going up to the carb. Interested to see the outcome.
A gravity feed fuel line works just fine as long as the carb is lower than the level of the fuel in the tank, no matter how the line is routed. Just like a siphon, once you get it flowing it continues to flow until it is interrupted, unless you were to move the fuel tank itself down below the level of the carb.
 

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A gravity feed fuel line works just fine as long as the carb is lower than the level of the fuel in the tank, no matter how the line is routed. Just like a siphon, once you get it flowing it continues to flow until it is interrupted, unless you were to move the fuel tank itself down below the level of the carb.
This is true.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
One thing I did notice and was wondering is there a fuel pump involved or gravity feed because from the pic of your new trial set up the fuel line appears to take quite a dip before going up to the carb. Interested to see the outcome.
I actually did try it with a fuel pump but needed up not needing it I shortened the line a little too so not a big of a dip now. I'll try and post some pics in the morning I keep having trouble uploading them with my phone
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have swapped some carbs on engines they were not designed for and most ran very well without having to mess with the jet sizes,all I had to do was fine tune the idle and hi speed mixture screws..

I had a mini bike with a 3-4 HP Briggs horizontal that had the Pulsa-Jet carb that mounts on the gas tank--it leaked where it seats on the tank and a backfire from the muffler when I let off the throttle caught the gas tank on fire ,I had to leap off it going 20 mph,was lucky I didn't get injured bad or burned..I decided that setup had to go..

I made up a intake manifold from pipe and flanges to mount the carb were made from plumbing "waste nut flanges" that happened to match the two bolt pattern on the carb and engine,all I had to do was screw them to the pipes at the proper angle (so the carb bowl was level and the other flange "tilted" to bolt to the engine)--then I brazed the flanges in place so the manifold couldn't move..

I used a float type carb off a later Briggs push mower engine that tossed a rod ..one that still had the mixture adjusting screws,not a "fixed jet" emissions type.the venturi size was almost identical to the original carb..

The engine started easier and felt more powerful with that carb on it--had to mount a gas tank on the frame in front of the seat to feed it..

Some Tecumseh 10 HP horizontal engines had a float type carb that had a intake manifold that was like an "L",it put the carb down lower and facing sideways compared to most other horizontal engines..and they ran decent,so the intake manifold can be something that looks like it wouldn't work good,but does anyways..

Some friends have made their own intakes and used carbs off newer engines on antique engines they couldn't find original parts for too,the hardest part is if you need the govenor to work ,you'll be inventing custom linkages and bell cranks and have to fiddle with the adjustments to get it working properly..
You are correct sir the part that was the most annoying and took the longest was the throttle cable and govenor linkage. This is in part why I used this carb off a Kohler on the newer Briggs carbs the throttle goes side to side but on this Kohler carb the throttle goes up and down like the original so I just had to bend my own rod to connect the governor arm to the throttle on the carb.
 

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