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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all
this is a follow-up from my previous post regarding my white 1370 tractor. I removed the exhaust manifold and found the #1 port was very wet with diesel fuel while 2-3 and 4 were dry and appeared normal. So at this point I decided to start tearing down the engine (believing I have a piston , cylinder or ring failure in #1) but unfortunately have to leave it in the tractor as I do not have all tools necessary to remove it.
Anyway, interesting when I removed the stump cover I found both parts of a thrust bearing in the pan. Was confused as to how a thrust bearing could or would fall out but after reading multiple listings on this forum, I guess it does happen from time to time. At first I was not considering replacing this as I thought the entire crank shaft with have to be removed but after reading multiple listings on this forum it appears this can be done with the engine in place. I do plan on purchasing .010 over size bearings to take up any additional slack that might occur. Question, this anyone know exactly which main bearings these go under and is there any additional suggestions on replacing these. Also I do plan on replacing the #1 piston and cylinder and checking all the remaining medicines and cylinders and replacing those if necessary. I figure as low as the top and bottom and is off I should do what I can while on there. Any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, suggestions on where to get these parts would be appreciated.
Also I have read where additional service manual download is available, I do have the paper bag diversion but people have indicated the online manual is much more complete. Any assistance in this area and would also be appreciated
As always, thanks to everyone

crazyhorsemd
 

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The thrust bearings go on bearing cap #4, with the numbering starting at the front of the engine. As soon as you pull that cap, it will be evident how they sit in it. There is also two more thrust bearings that are the upper half of the thrust set. These can also be removed with the crank in place. I would recommend pulling down the caps for each of the other mains (one at a time, so as not to intermix them) and inspecting each bearing for wear. On mine, I found enough wear that I decided to replace all of them. It is possible to do this without removing the crank from the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Thanks,
I could use all the help I can get....
This past weekend I did just that. Pulled #4 and see that thrust bearings go on both sides, also pulled # 2 and 3 to check bearings. I guess after 44 years I should expect wear. THEY WERE.. Plan to replace. Also, when I looked at bearings for sale they speak of "undersize", does this mean larger to fill in for worn parts. I was planning on going 1 size larger for the main bearings and thrust bearings. Any thoughts ????
Also thanks for the PM

I really appreciate all the info.

crazyhorsemd
 

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On the thrust bearings, I think the there is just 1 larger size available. You might ask where ever you decide to buy the bearings and see or you could check with the Agco website in the parts catalog and see what is listed. On the main bearings, take 1 of the inserts and look at the back side. Almost all bearings are stamped- std. or .010 or .020 etc. If they are still originals it may be in millimeters. Several years ago I owned an Auto Parts store. back then, mains were available std, .005, .010, .020. etc. If your main journals are still standard size, but have some wear, you can easily go to the .005 and they will work and compensate for the wear. Going a full .010 oversize without grinding the journals isn't usually recommended. The "undersize" you're seeing listed is referring to the journal. It if has been ground, it will be some multiple of .010 undersize. Be sure to use a torque wrench to accurately get those bolts torqued back to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Question...
I know the right thing would be to pull the sleeves...I'm replacing the rings and the cylinder walls "Look and feel" good. I'm having a hard time convincing myself to pull them. Never done so, read and You tube videos and it does look intimidating. Any suggestions, tips, thoughts would be appreciated.
As always
Thanks to all for the help
 

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Pulling the sleeves is pretty well getting into major surgery. Unless you have reason to believe that they are damaged, or badly worn, or the o-rings that seal the coolant surrounding them are failing, I wouldn't disturb them. I'm wondering about the rings, do you have a low compression issue with one or more cylinders?

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What I'm guessing from what I've seen is that ....the thrust bearing fell out, loss of oil pressure, spun /destroyed #1 connecting rod bearing, lack of compression in #1...blowing thick diesel fuel smoke
The pistons, rings, sleeves all look good. No scoring, pitting and by measurement at the top end very consistent. I hate laziness..thought if I had it torn down should "do it right" and replace the sleeves but after a lot of research really prefer not to if I don't have to.
 

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I wasn't aware that the bearing had spun on the number 1 journal. I take it then that you must have the block out of the tractor in order to get the crank out for regrind. In that case, I would very carefully mic the sleeves and compare those measurements to what is called out by Fiat for acceptable wear limits. If the crank is out of the block, then the hardest thing about pulling sleeves is to locate the proper sized puller.
 
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