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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Which engine oil should I get for my tractor? Regular Rotella, Semi-Sythetic Rotella or Full Synthetic? They are all priced very close to the same. Advice, suggestions?
 

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Any of them are fine.
But remember if you go with synthetic you should always stay with synthetic.
In my opinion though the semi synthetic are just more of a ploy to make you think you're getting a better oil. But that's just my opinion.
 

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Well as it was explained to me the synthetic will leave a thin coating on all of the engine parts. When you switch to a standard oil this synthetic coating will mix with and possibly break the oil's ability to lubricate properly.
 

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farmtechdave,

Thanks for the info!

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm just trying to keep it available locally. Most stores around here have all of the Rotellas, I did see however some Mobil 1 Synthetic 15/50.....I use Mobil1 in all of my other vehicles and was wondering about that too
 

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JFordBronco,
Is your tractor still under warranty?
If it is,it may not be wise to switch from what MF would recommend. At least that's the way JD policy works.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes, it is still under warranty. I just went to Advance Auto and they recomended regular Rotella 15/40 as does the owners manual. The synthetic Rotella only comes in 5/40. The Rotella transmission/hydraulic fluid doesn't say anything about MF Permatran III it just says good for MF. I dont know what to do....this is kinda agravating.
 

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Your owners manual should spell out the lubrication specifications for your equipment. As long as you meet the proper grade and rating it doesn't matter what brand it is though folks always have their favorites. Mobil 1 15-50 is probably not the right spec for a diesel engine. Mobil Delvac 15w-40 is probably the right spec. Pick a brand that meets your need for availability and affordability and change it on the manufacturer's recommended schedule and your equipment will provide many years of service - at least from a lubrication perspective. Air filters are more important in terms of overall wear and contamination. You can easily change between synthetics and conventional in today's range of over the counter lubricants should you change your mind at a later date.
 

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The voice of reason !
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Any of them are fine.
But remember if you go with synthetic you should always stay with synthetic.
In my opinion though the semi synthetic are just more of a ploy to make you think you're getting a better oil. But that's just my opinion.
According to everything I've read this is false, there was a time when the two could not be interchanged but now they have the formulas at the point to where they are.

FYI synthetics are actually made from regular crude oil the same as any regular oil but their characteristics have been modified to achieve a different level of performance, i.e. flowing at a lower temperature while still providing high temperature protection.

As having been stated before go with the recommendations of the OEM so you don't void the warranty.

After the warranty is up if you want to switch to synthetic thats fine and if you try and decide you don't want to stay with it you can switch back with no ill effects.

This does not mean by using a synthetic you don't need to change you oil at the recommended intervals !

The same rules apply to each depending on what the OEM states, as far as which is best ? This is a can of worms that will go on for years with no definitive answer IMHO.

And using Briggs as a source of info you can see that the two different types are worlds apart in weight.

The simple answer go with what the OEM said, at the very least you will not void the warranty.
 

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The voice of reason !
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Your owners manual should spell out the lubrication specifications for your equipment. As long as you meet the proper grade and rating it doesn't matter what brand it is though folks always have their favorites. Mobil 1 15-50 is probably not the right spec for a diesel engine. Mobil Delvac 15w-40 is probably the right spec. Pick a brand that meets your need for availability and affordability and change it on the manufacturer's recommended schedule and your equipment will provide many years of service - at least from a lubrication perspective. Air filters are more important in terms of overall wear and contamination. You can easily change between synthetics and conventional in today's range of over the counter lubricants should you change your mind at a later date.
Well said ! :fing32:
 

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Also the oil filter should be a concern.
Most manufactures will not warantee an off brand filter, not all filters are the same.
Ranchkingron, was looking into switching oils, from JD Plus 50 to their new Plus 50II, the dealer had asked the regional rep for more info. The only answer was the newer blends are much different from the old ones. Which does mean you may be correct, but I was also told not to switch back and forth.
Being as we have so many tractors I wouldn't risk it or recomend anyone else doing it. But that's my opinion as I said before.
 

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Also the oil filter should be a concern.
Most manufactures will not warantee an off brand filter, not all filters are the same.
Ranchkingron, was looking into switching oils, from JD Plus 50 to their new Plus 50II, the dealer had asked the regional rep for more info. The only answer was the newer blends are much different from the old ones. Which does mean you may be correct, but I was also told not to switch back and forth.
Being as we have so many tractors I wouldn't risk it or recomend anyone else doing it. But that's my opinion as I said before.
This is true I've even had a Briggs tech tell me not to use synthetic oil at all even though the sell it and recommend it in the manual ??????.

Thats why I said just go with what the OEM says and be on the safe side.

And you are so right about the oil filter one Briggs tech says use just theirs and another says a Wix is fine because it exceeds the OEM specs, which is right I don't know but I do know that the oil issue isn't really I problem because I have done the switch back and forth with no ill effects one way or the other the engine doesn't leak or use any oil at all.

I think where synthetics got a bad rap was that some people think you can double the oil change intervals then wonder why the engine has a short lifespan ?

Another source of complaints is the motorcycle crowd who have wet clutch bikes where the engine and trans oil is common between them (the older organic clutch plates get really slippery with synthetics) thus they claim its the oil that causes the problem and is no good which is BS.

JMO I've used both and they work well but if my warranty was at stake I would go OEM all the way.

And you are correct these are all just opinions I just hope they help someone.
 

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regarding synthetics in motorcycles, one must stay away from oils that have molybdenum (moly) in them for bikes that have wet clutch plates. The moly will make the clutch slip -- bad news if you want to stay alive. Another way to tell is to make sure the can does not have the "energy saving" logo in that circle.
 

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Also the oil filter should be a concern.
Most manufactures will not warantee an off brand filter, not all filters are the same.
Magnusson-Moss prohibits that. If they state that you have to your their filters/oil only, then they have to provide filters/oil for free. But I totally agree, for the few dollars an OEM filter costs, why mess around with aftermarket stuff. And JD oil seems to be top notch. JD gets their filters from either Baldwin or Donaldson, can't remember.

Next change I will be using T6 5W40.
 

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According to everything I've read this is false, there was a time when the two could not be interchanged but now they have the formulas at the point to where they are.

FYI synthetics are actually made from regular crude oil the same as any regular oil but their characteristics have been modified to achieve a different level of performance, i.e. flowing at a lower temperature while still providing high temperature protection.

As having been stated before go with the recommendations of the OEM so you don't void the warranty.

After the warranty is up if you want to switch to synthetic thats fine and if you try and decide you don't want to stay with it you can switch back with no ill effects.

This does not mean by using a synthetic you don't need to change you oil at the recommended intervals !

The same rules apply to each depending on what the OEM states, as far as which is best ? This is a can of worms that will go on for years with no definitive answer IMHO.

And using Briggs as a source of info you can see that the two different types are worlds apart in weight.

The simple answer go with what the OEM said, at the very least you will not void the warranty.
A little FYI for you....true synthetic oils such as Amsoil are NOT made from dino oil base stock.
 

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A little FYI for you....true synthetic oils such as Amsoil are NOT made from dino oil base stock.
Oh really you think so huh ?

I think you need to take a look at the Amsoil site, you may be in for a shock, I know I was !

http://www.oilnexus.com/info/faq.html#base_oil

And basically what your reading is "Shhhhhh it'a trade secret" But upon a little reading it turns out that it' is a Group III oil and so off to find more info about what that is.

This is from Wikipedia : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil#Synthetic_engine_oil

Group III base stocks are considered synthetic motor oil only in the United States;[13] elsewhere they are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic".

Hmmmm only Group III base stocks are considered synthetic motor oil only in the United States I wonder why that is ?????????????

Group I, II, II+ and III type mineral base oil stocks are widely used in combination with additive packages ?

If this is correct and Amsoil says on their own site that it is Group III, then that would mean it's made from petroleum oil because thats were mineral oil comes from !

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

I'm not saying that Amsoil is not a great product on the contrary I think it's an excellent oil I just don't fall for all the it's a pure synthetic oil BS.

All of this is just superfluous anyway because I could just as easily say bird poop works great in my engine and has helped it survive for 300.000 miles with no problems, I think it boils down more to how often you change the oil and filter and normal maintainenance.
 

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Oh really you think so huh ?

I think you need to take a look at the Amsoil site, you may be in for a shock, I know I was !

http://www.oilnexus.com/info/faq.html#base_oil
Thats interesting. As I read that link, only the Amsoil XL line is Group III. The XL is their "lower end" product. That link goes on to say "each AMSOIL lubricant is formulated with the synthetic base oil or combination of base oils best suited to that lubricant’s application demands".

Sounds like a synthetic base in the non-XL products, but I'm no expert.
 
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