[Obscured_by_Clouds]

On another thread, I see this:

" gonna convert it into my hillside mower.. will add weights to rear & front first.. will lower the center of gravity on it.. "

I got hills. I don't have a way to accurately measure on site, but according to mapping programs that show elevation, there is a change in elevation of about 20' over a linear distance of about 70'.

Both machines feel top heavy at some point. Despite nearly identical height, width and weight, the JD feels more top heavy than the Craftsman.

Looking to lower the center of gravity on one or both and this got me wondering about weights. My concern is the extra weight and load on the drive train.

I can cross mow parts of the hills which is where I'm hoping this might help. But other areas are too steep to risk crossmowing and I only feel comfortable with straight up and down. The extra load of the weights might be a concern there, more to climb with, but also more to make downhill more ummm .... exciting .... :hide:

Thoughts?

 

[TUDOR]

Load the rear tires. If it still feels uncomfortable, then you can also load the front tires, or bolt some weight to the front of the tractor. A 20' rise in 70' of run is 16° which is less than the standard 4/12 roof slope on houses (18°), and just over the max lateral slope angle mentioned by some tractor manufacturers in the manual. The rear axle is the source of side to side stability, and a few extra pounds on the front will help keep the front tires planted when going straight upslope. Since the front axle pivots, there is no help there if the tractor decides to roll over.

The extra weight will improve traction, and thus the work load on the hydro in specific situations, but other than that, it's free weight as far as wear and tear on the hydro goes. The added weight for going up or down slope isn't enough to be concerned about since the tractor, mower and operator already gross at close to 1000 lb. Another 10% isn't going to have a great deal of effect.

Of note is the fact that the K46 in the X300 (at least) is going to have a much reduced life expectancy dealing with slopes that steep. The K46 is an entry level hydro which can deliver up to 2.75 hp to the rear wheels at max hydro pressure. Hydros wear faster at higher pressures and slopes require high hydro pressures regardless of speed.

For future reference, you really should be using the more capable hydro that comes in a GT for that slope.

 

[Greybeard09]

Part of my modifications to the Cub Cadet 2166 I'm redoing is to lower the seat height as part of "lowering the center of gravity" to make it feel more stable on hill sides. It's not a quicky fix and won't be reversible but I'm not planning on selling it at any point. Not a lot is going to be stock on that unit when I'm done.

I'm not sure if I'm going to load the tires or not... That's still on the back burner. In a seemingly reverse move I have upgraded to GT wheels and tires for more ground clearance and a higher limit on mowing height. I have to lower myself back into the tractor with the lower seat height to counter this.


My MTD/AYP "Black Thing" sits really low and it's great on hill sides. I use a lot of "body english" though. Haven't weighted those tires...

 

[Obscured_by_Clouds]

I use a lot of "body english" though.

I do that too. It's easier on the Bee since it has grab handles on the fenders. The JD doesn't have those (yet ).

One of my problems is the uneven slope. There are low spots due to moles and erosion and there really isn't a practical way to fill and grade them.

Problem is, you really have to watch wheel placement when approaching one so that you don't drop a low side tire into one and throw that delicate 'don't roll me now' balance off.

I'm going to try and fill some of the deeper ones and see what happens though.

 

[Greybeard09]

Grab handles are planned for the 2166... With the "Black Thing" I just grab under the fender. I'll put handles on it some day.


None of my slopes are even... and I'm dodging trees at the same time.

 

[OldBuzzard]

Another option would be dual wheels.

I know that made a huge difference on my Bolens 1250 with a Haban Sickle-Mo on it. With single tires it would get a bit tippy at times with the cutter bar hanging out on the right side. In fact Haban recommended putting a wheel weight on the left side rear to counteract that.

I looked at pics of the X300 and it appears the duals for one of those would not be an option, but if your 'other' tractor has bolt on wheels, making an adapter for duals would be possible.

Here are before and after pics of the 1250 so that you can see the difference.

 

[ChrisReyn]

Just throwing this in for thought on mowing cross-hill, I had a 1980's Duetz-Allis with the 18hp Kohler. When mowing cross slope on a steep angle, the oil pump tube would be out of the oil reservoir and the oil pressure warning would come on....occasionally shutting down the engine.
Just something to keep an eye on when on a sharp slope...

 

[Obscured_by_Clouds]

I really wish some inventor genius would come up with an outrigger contraption that could be swung from one side to the other at will on the fly so it could always be on the high side regardless of direction.

Would be kind of a pain getting around trees though.

 

[U.S.A Tractor Joe]

Most of the times, the rear rims on lawn tractors have two holes in them. Most likely for wheel weights.

But, you could also dual up each rear wheel. I agree with old buzzard about that subject. You really don't fathom the difference until you try it and use it. Huge difference in traction and stance. Now if the duals inter fear with the mower deck, then you need longer bolts and or wheel spacers.