Wheel spacer to clear hydraulic motor.

3061 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by kungdrew, Oct 3, 2010

Mjoe7

Discussion Starter · Sep 28, 2010

So I got this brainy idea and bought some 12x10.5 wheels and 26x12x12 tires and put them on my 226. :fing32: Looks cool what can I say.

The problem is the left wheel rubs on the hydraulic motor. I figured I will need a 1/2" spacer to clear it. I bought a pair and they are to large in diameter around the outer circumference to properly lay flat in the bolt hole area of the wheel. :banghead3 Grr.
(I would make a pair, but I lack the machining tools to properly do that.)

I have installed grade-5 wheel studs (2" long x 7/16-20 bolts threaded in from the backside) (I had to extend the threads the rest of the way down the shank to the bolt head as they were not threaded all the way) that are longer which makes putting these dudes on much easier and makes up the extra length needed for the spacer, and I can use auto lug nuts that are shiney chrome. :fing32:

I was thinking about making a template and having a machine shop make me set. or finding a sprocket gear with a 3" inside diameter hole and an outer circumference of 5-3/4" marking the bolt holes and drilling them out and trying that.

Anyone have some ideas?

raying:
Thank's for your time.
Mike

See less See more

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

Ingersoll444

· #2 · Sep 28, 2010

Can the outer edge of the ones you got be turned down a little to fit? That should be a easy job for anyone that does machine work. Or.... if you have any stockcar guys around your area, I bet you can find a guy that will relocate the wheel centers in a 1/2" for you for cheap.

99flhr

· #3 · Sep 28, 2010

Mjoe7 said:
I have installed grade-5 wheel studs (2" long x 7/16-20 bolts threaded in from the backside) (I had to extend the threads the rest of the way down the shank to the bolt head as they were not threaded all the way) e

FWIW, long bolts with full thread are available from McMaster-Carr ( and others) I did the same swap when I added wheel weights

See less See more

Mjoe7

Discussion Starter · #4 · Sep 28, 2010

Ingersoll444 said:
Can the outer edge of the ones you got be turned down a little to fit? That should be a easy job for anyone that does machine work. Or.... if you have any stockcar guys around your area, I bet you can find a guy that will relocate the wheel centers in a 1/2" for you for cheap.

Well not anymore; since I destroyed one cutting pieces out to maybe make it work, but that just looked bad. :fing20:

See less See more

antiqueetc

· #5 · Sep 28, 2010

I would take a look at the wheels, specifically how they are welded together. If the center is welded in so that the welds can be cut, like with a little cutoff wheel on the grinder, then I would just change the wheel offset.

I've done that several times, just free the center, drive it in or out to the new location.

Tack one side, install the wheel on the tractor, or a spare axle, in the vise. Then check for straightness. They usually sort of self-align as they are a really tight fit. tack in a couple of more places and then weld as needed to firm it up.

If they are spot welded it is a little more work but still doable. Just drill the spots out and weld the holes in the rim when doing the rest of the welding.

See less See more

Quixote2

· #6 · Sep 28, 2010

http://store.gaugemagazine.com/5-x-4-50-to-5-x-4-50-wheel-adapter.aspx

Relatively expensive.

99flhr

· #7 · Sep 28, 2010

Quixote2 said:
http://store.gaugemagazine.com/5-x-4-50-to-5-x-4-50-wheel-adapter.aspx

Relatively expensive.

Way cheaper than "time and material" at a job shop. JMO

boomers_influence

· #8 · Sep 29, 2010

mike.
you do not need an adapter spacer.
all you need is a spacer.
if you remember i also have an 84 226.
i installed the 10.50 wheel also. it also hits the hyd. motor.

i will purchase some wheel spacers from J C Whitney. (1/4)
i will let you do the research on this.
thank you. boomer

See less See more

Mjoe7

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 29, 2010

antiqueetc said:
I would take a look at the wheels, specifically how they are welded together. If the center is welded in so that the welds can be cut, like with a little cutoff wheel on the grinder, then I would just change the wheel offset.

I've done that several times, just free the center, drive it in or out to the new location.

Tack one side, install the wheel on the tractor, or a spare axle, in the vise. Then check for straightness. They usually sort of self-align as they are a really tight fit. tack in a couple of more places and then weld as needed to firm it up.

If they are spot welded it is a little more work but still doable. Just drill the spots out and weld the holes in the rim when doing the rest of the welding.

I thought of this, but it is spot welded and it's a new wheel, so it's hard to do that to a shiney new wheel. I also now have the tire mounted which was not an easy task with no tubes. This route would just require some time and be cheaper than the $100.00 a Machine shop quoted me. :fing20:
I made up a template for him with the exact measurements and also left a wheel with him "just in case." It's pricey, but once I have a set it's easier to reproduce. I'm keeping you in mind Boomer. I may be able to help you out.

Boomer is correct. I don't need an adapter, just the spacer. The adapter is also to thick, the closer to the hub the better. I took washers and stacked them up to get a 1/2" then bolted the wheel up and this gave me just the clearance I needed. So that's how I arrived at my 1/2" spacing requirements.

Boomer; Do you think a 1/4" would be enough? That would be great if so.

See less See more

Caseman2

· #10 · Sep 29, 2010

My oldest boy has a 220 that came with John Deere 10.50's rear wheels that has 1/2 spacers so they would clear the hydro motor, I do not know where the PO got them though.

If you blow up the last pic you can see them in the outside right wheel and the inside of the left.

See less See more

2

Mjoe7

Discussion Starter · #11 · Sep 29, 2010

Caseman2; That looks sweet. Thanks for the pics and info. :fing32:

Mjoe7

Discussion Starter · #12 · Oct 2, 2010 (Edited)

Re: Wheel spacer to clear hydraulic motor. update

Here's an update on the spacers.
I had a machine shop make them for me. I measured everything out made a schematic diagram and left him a wheel just in case so the bolt holes would be exact.
He had them done in 2 days and I could'nt be happier. Made from 1/2" thick steel as this proved to be the perfect thickness to clear everything just enough.

If anyone is interested I can get a few sets made at close to half the cost it costed me since I paid the extra for machine setup and programing.
If we could get 50 sets made it would be much cheaper around $35.00 a set is my best guess, but I doubt that many of you would want them.

Pics below...

See less See more

4

Mjoe7

Discussion Starter · #13 · Oct 2, 2010

Pics below. Notice the wear groove on the motor cover. I did'nt check it before driving off. :fing20: I noticed it when I tried pushing the GT in neutral. :banghead3

See less See more

4

Mjoe7

Discussion Starter · #14 · Oct 2, 2010

The gap between the tire and motor was hard to see with this picture, so I enhanced it some with the lines.
The last pics are of it next to the same year, and make of GT for comparison.
My younger brother and son in the back ground. :fing32:

See less See more

4

Ingersoll444

· #15 · Oct 2, 2010

That guy did a awsome job on those spacers!! Almost a work of art.

And them are some BIG 'o tires you got there!!!!!!!!!!

kungdrew

· #16 · Oct 3, 2010

WOW!!! I am loving the way that looks. I might try it myself when I go to buy my ag tires. Thanks for being a pioneer on this one.

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.