[gcaldicott]

I have a set of 12" wheels that I want to restore. The inside of the wheels are in pretty good shape. The outsides have a fair amount of rust. I talked to a sandblaster who will blast to bare metal and prime them for $25 each. Is that reasonable? I have considered using electrolysis to remove the rust myself. Does anyone have experience doing this?

 

[FD611V]

I certainly wouldn't tackle the job of removing the rust, paint, and prime for $25.00 ea. So, I would take the offer from the person and not look back... that is if he does the job correctly.

 

[Leinie]

Pay the $50. Try the electrolysis on a small scale first. Like a basket of nuts and bolts. It's kinda fun but you need to be real careful and practice getting your setup correct. I've done a bit , but nothing bigger than a heating vent for the house.

 

[gcaldicott]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll have them blasted. Next question. Should I powder coat or paint.

 

[Alan_Heist]

You need to make that decision before you give them to the sandblast guy, you can't powdercoat over primer, must go on the bare metal.

I would say it depends on how they will be used. If you are going to make a show tractor with these, have them primed, fill all the rust pits, sand it down nice and smooth then several coats of paint for a show-room shiny finish.

OTOH if it's gonna be a work tractor, powder coat, it's more durable.

 

[Deringerdonny]

Blast them!

 

[UrbanTractor]

Okay, this is a very germane topic for me.

I presently have a set of four wheels (two front, two rear) and a set of wheel weights in a shop getting media blasted.

I debated whether to have them powder coated, but in the end decided to just have them media blasted. I will prime and paint them my self.

The reason I decided against powder coating, was two fold: (A) Cost, and (B) rust prevention.

The total cost to blast and powder coat those six items would have been about $275. That seemed like an awful lot of money to me. As it is, I am paying $150 (about $25/each item) for just the media blasting. That alone was hard to stomach.

I asked the shop about whether the powder coat treatment has any rust-inhibiting properties (such as like Rustoleum primer claims), and they said it did not. This concerned me, since the wheels seem to be susceptible to rusting. I think it is important to use a coating that inhibits rust.

So, to answer your question, I think you are getting a pretty darn good deal, given that yours will come pre-primed after blasting. Next question is, what will be used as the primer?

 

[Dude11]

I,personlly,would have hand sanded them-that way you really learn to hate rust,therefore promising yourself NOT to ever let this happen on your watch.Course,your time may factor in as well.:trink40:

 

[gcaldicott]

Next question is, what will be used as the primer?

That's a good question. I need to have another conversation with the sandblaster. I just asked if they would be primed after blasting to avoid rust setting in. Since it sounds like you have done some research, do you have a primer recommendation?

Thanks,
Greg

 

[UrbanTractor]

Greg,

I plan to use a Rustoleum bare metal primer. I am picking up the rims the day they blast them, so I can get the primer on quickly.

There have been a several recent threads where we've been discussing primers and JD paint colors, etc. I learned a lot from them, so it might be worth your while to read them. There are links to the various primers, including the one I plan to use, in these threads:

Rustoleum?

What Color Green?

Pictures of Classic Green and Bright Green

 

[mowergene]

If it were me........I'd let him sandblast them and pay the $25 each. I would refuse the priming. Reason? I want to see that the rust is completely gone! I've used Krylon brand, satin black with great success. It seems to work well UNprimed, with many light coats. Purchasable @ Walmart.

 

[GSM]

I'd vote for paying for the blasting and priming. Powdercoat is nice and I've done a lot for cars over the years (do it myself which is kind of fun), but it does chip fairly easily. A nice paint job will last a long time if you keep the tractor indoors.

If you have a pretty good sized compressor, you can buy a benchtop blasting cabinet and 40lbs of media for about $125. Easy to do stuff like wheels. First use pays for itself.

 

[UrbanTractor]

...If you have a pretty good sized compressor, you can buy a benchtop blasting cabinet and 40lbs of media for about $125. Easy to do stuff like wheels. First use pays for itself.

That is exactly what I've been thinking. Any links to suggested brands?

I would also need a compressor, so it could add up. But so will paying to have parts blasted as I take this old '66 apart (eventually).

 

[mikebramel]

Blast them, it will give the surface a much better profile for the paint to adhere to. Can primer works good, Rustoleum Professional at Home Depot. If you have a fresh air supply SPI epoxy is alot cheaper and more durable

 

[rubadub]

Heres a couple of pictures of the back axle of the Chevelle I'm restoring, I sand blasted it with silica sand, then used regular body filler, then sanded almost all of that off then primed it.

If you want your rims on the money I wouldn't powder coat them, you can't get rid of any pit marks.

Anyway if you don't mind a little hand sanding you can make them really nice.

However I do use supplied air in all my painting and sand or bead blasting, I won't even rattle can something without it.

Rob

 

[saleen49]

Sandblast and powdercoat is the only way to go. A good sandblast job will rough up the steel in an even fasion and will hide much of the rust imperfections. Powdercoat, done right, is more durable than paint. That is one reason why Deere powdercoats OEM rims and decks from the factory.

 

[rubadub]

Sandblast and powdercoat is the only way to go. A good sandblast job will rough up the steel in an even fasion and will hide much of the rust imperfections. Powdercoat, done right, is more durable than paint. That is one reason why Deere powdercoats OEM rims and decks from the factory.

I agree but only if the used rims aren't pitted.

But if you scratch or gouge a powder coated rim you can't do a very good job of touching it up.

Rob

 

[UrbanTractor]

I agree but only if the used rims aren't pitted.

But if you scratch or gouge a powder coated rim you can't do a very good job of touching it up.

Rob

Rob, I suspect there is some pitting on these rims I'm having blasted. I'll have a better idea how much when I get them back.

You said that you use "supplied air" even with rattle cans. Sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by that (like I said, I don't even own a compressor.) Would you mind elaborating a bit? If you mean ventilation, I will definitely have plenty as the only place I can do this is out-of-doors.

 

[rubadub]

Rob, I suspect there is some pitting on these rims I'm having blasted. I'll have a better idea how much when I get them back.

You said that you use "supplied air" even with rattle cans. Sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by that (like I said, I don't even own a compressor.) Would you mind elaborating a bit? If you mean ventilation, I will definitely have plenty as the only place I can do this is out-of-doors.

I'll put some pictures up with explanations with them.

Rattle can is using a can of spray paint bought at the local hardware, shake it up and push the button.

Like this one.

 

[rubadub]

I hope I'm not hijacking his thread if I put out a whole bunch of information on supplied air and blasting and painting or whatever.

Supplied Air

Is something like using a respirator so you don't have to breathe to many paint fumes or sandblast dust from sandblasting.

Heres a respirator