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Discussion Starter #1
OK, thanks for the advice on cleaning terminals, dilectric grease, etc. Been there, done that.
I should have been more specific. I'm looking for advice on which switch is most likely to break down. The clutch because it is closest to the ground and therefore closest to water-causing corrosion? The PTO because of the risk of corrosion since it is so close to the battery?

How much voltage should the small wire GOING to the solenoid be indicating if the clutch is depressed, someone is sitting in the seat, and the PTO is not engaged?

What is the likelihood that the ignition switch is the cause of all this?

And where is the switch in the clutch? Thanks.
 

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OK, so the basics are done. and you did check with a volt ohm meter the other switchs? right? What ever battery voltage at seliniod ign wire with the proper sequence of starting done and all working correctly.
clutch switch is under the panel between the seat and steering tower. should be white in color and have 2 wires going to it. And yes it does fail but being 25+ yrs old......
These are a pain to get out and replace. You will have to remove the lift handle side cover to r/r it from the outside of the tunnel. small clip molded on the inside bottom of it retains it. I use a long pry bar and pryup on the retaining clip from the underside between the frame rails. The bottom of the switch needs to go first and then the top. reverse on install.
good luck
 

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Most folks just "jumper" past the safety switches.
But for disclaimer reasons...I cannot tell you to do this.
Don't want you and yours to get hurt...
But at the same time I cannot stop you from bypassing
the safety switches.....lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Jumpering Past the Safety Switches

Can this be done simply by taking by splicing together the two wires going to each safety switch and going therefore going around the switch?
Y or N
 

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Some just need unplugged and some need a jumper. I always try unplugging first until I find the problem switch, then I can find a replacement.
 

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You "can" use a stiff piece of copper wire if the switch is
part of the wiring harness. Unplug the switch and bend the
stiff wire in a "U" shape and jam it in each side of the connection
terminals. You can also "cut" both wires off the switch and
put them together. Strip each end of each wire 5/8" to 3/4" bare
and twist them together.....then bond them.
I use "heat shrink tubing" for a water tight connection.
 

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Yes, for testing you can jumper the clutch( switch position normally open), pto (normally open grounds the ign), seat( normally open)
I would suggest doing one at a time. start with the clutch safety and go from there.
I would not recommend leaveing them in place.
With out seeing your tractor this is just a guess on which ones are on your unit as these were transition years for the safety and ignition systems
 
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