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Whats needed to made my 16g ready for plow days

785 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  cadetpwr
I want to set the 16g I am buying up for plow days. She only has the stationary hitch right now. What all do I need to add the liftable hitch and is this all very expensive/hard to find? That may determine whether I buy it or just post it for sale on the shops site. Thanks Mike
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I was going to say you'll need to budget at least $150. There are a few different versions of the rear liftable hitch, and I think there's only one that works for your tractor. You may need a little patience, too.

I assume you just want to pull a Brinly plow, right? Another thing to consider is the rear wheel offset. I'm not knowledgeable enough about the G-series to say if you can run the right rear wheel flipped inboard or not. I seem to remember some you can, and some you can't. I'm not sure how things would line up and sit in the furrow.

The G-series would not be my rider tractor of choice for gardening work. They're good tractors, but Gravely was almost purely marketing to lawn care and snow removal users by the time they came out, and some of the "soilworking options" are harder to find - liftable rear hitches and individual wheel brakes being the big ones.
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I would only need the liftable hitch for what I want to do, I already have a pair of 8.50 ag tires to swap onto it. The front mounted rotating plow would be interesting to see in use at a plow day, but the needed front mount and that plow are probably expensive. I wont see any plow days till next spring at the earliest, so I have plenty of time to find the liftable hitch. And I agree it seems Gravely was shooting toward the mower/snow remover with the G series at that point. Otherwise the rear lift should have been standard equipment. I used to not care for the looks of the riders, but after playing on one this summer (816) that came into the shop for repair, I got hooked. I am tall and there is so much more room than the JD 140H3 I have now. The JD needs help in the cosmetic dept, along with a hitch. The 16G is really really clean, runs perfect, just needs a hitch. The Liftable hitches I see have 2 positions for mounting the sleeve hitch plow, so I dont think the tire offset will effect it that much, I normaly run them in the narrow position to closely match the front wheel track, along with running nothing wider than a 8.50 tire. The wider tires have issues staying down in the furrow if your following a smaller tractor/smaller plow. Would the budgeted $150 cover the hitch and all linkages to lift it? The 16g does have Hyd lift on it.
At least $150. Like arcam8123 said, you could end up paying $300. As I recall, hydraulic or manual lift shouldn't matter for the liftable rear hitch (other than your arm muscles).

Don't JD 140s have individual wheel brakes? I know I would definitely want those. That's why I like the older 400-series Gravelys. They came standard with them.
I agree that you shouldn't have to tap brakes every 10 seconds to stop constant wheel spin, but they really come in handy on all sizes of tractors, including GTs. You must have some lighter soil without rocks, so if you're not doing anything other than pulling a 10" Brinly plow at a pretty shallow depth, you'll probably be fine with the 16G as-is. I just wanted you to be aware that the individual wheel brake kits are a little pricey and harder to find since they're typically standard equipment on a lot of the GTs folks use at plow days.

As I said in your other post, check the PTO clutch. That's the big money and big labor item that is most commonly in need of replacement. If it's good, $1000 isn't a bad price, but if it's toast, $1000 is pretty high. It's definitely something I would check before dropping that kind of money.
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He said it had no issues, what goes out on the PTO clutch? failure to engage at all or slippage? I will check it monday if I can, do I need to remove the snowblade and put the mower on to check it? Gravelys are a new thing to me
There's a cone clutch inside the transmission that doesn't last very long if someone engages it improperly (like at high RPM) or lets it get out of adjustment. You get slippage first in heavy grass, for example, and then you get nothing when the lining burns through which doesn't take long once it starts going. If it wasn't used much it's probably fine, but worth checking. If you a do a search there are several threads on here showing what all is involved for replacement.

Also, I'm not sure if anyone has told you yet - many manuals are available online here: - :
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