My Tractor Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

· Small Engine Tech
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to set the 16g I am buying up for plow days. She only has the stationary hitch right now. What all do I need to add the liftable hitch and is this all very expensive/hard to find? That may determine whether I buy it or just post it for sale on the shops site. Thanks Mike
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
I was going to say you'll need to budget at least $150. There are a few different versions of the rear liftable hitch, and I think there's only one that works for your tractor. You may need a little patience, too.

I assume you just want to pull a Brinly plow, right? Another thing to consider is the rear wheel offset. I'm not knowledgeable enough about the G-series to say if you can run the right rear wheel flipped inboard or not. I seem to remember some you can, and some you can't. I'm not sure how things would line up and sit in the furrow.

The G-series would not be my rider tractor of choice for gardening work. They're good tractors, but Gravely was almost purely marketing to lawn care and snow removal users by the time they came out, and some of the "soilworking options" are harder to find - liftable rear hitches and individual wheel brakes being the big ones.
 

· Small Engine Tech
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I would only need the liftable hitch for what I want to do, I already have a pair of 8.50 ag tires to swap onto it. The front mounted rotating plow would be interesting to see in use at a plow day, but the needed front mount and that plow are probably expensive. I wont see any plow days till next spring at the earliest, so I have plenty of time to find the liftable hitch. And I agree it seems Gravely was shooting toward the mower/snow remover with the G series at that point. Otherwise the rear lift should have been standard equipment. I used to not care for the looks of the riders, but after playing on one this summer (816) that came into the shop for repair, I got hooked. I am tall and there is so much more room than the JD 140H3 I have now. Having the engine heat/exhaust below and behind is nice, as well as sitting up fairly high. My 140H3 needs more than I have the money and desire to mess with, along with needing a hitch. The 16G is really really clean, runs perfect, just needs a hitch. The Liftable hitches I see have 2 positions for mounting the sleeve hitch plow, so I dont think the tire offset will effect it that much, I normaly run them in the narrow position to closely match the front wheel track, along with running nothing wider than a 8.50 tire. The wider tires have issues staying down in the furrow if your following a smaller tractor/smaller plow. Would the budgeted $150 cover the hitch and all linkages to lift it? The 16g does have Hyd lift on it. If you need turning brakes on a GT to plow, your doing something wrong or trying to do to much.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
I would only need the liftable hitch for what I want to do, I already have a pair of 8.50 ag tires to swap onto it. The front mounted rotating plow would be interesting to see in use at a plow day, but the needed front mount and that plow are probably expensive. I wont see any plow days till next spring at the earliest, so I have plenty of time to find the liftable hitch. And I agree it seems Gravely was shooting toward the mower/snow remover with the G series at that point. Otherwise the rear lift should have been standard equipment. I used to not care for the looks of the riders, but after playing on one this summer (816) that came into the shop for repair, I got hooked. I am tall and there is so much more room than the JD 140H3 I have now. The JD needs help in the cosmetic dept, along with a hitch. The 16G is really really clean, runs perfect, just needs a hitch. The Liftable hitches I see have 2 positions for mounting the sleeve hitch plow, so I dont think the tire offset will effect it that much, I normaly run them in the narrow position to closely match the front wheel track, along with running nothing wider than a 8.50 tire. The wider tires have issues staying down in the furrow if your following a smaller tractor/smaller plow. Would the budgeted $150 cover the hitch and all linkages to lift it? The 16g does have Hyd lift on it.
At least $150. Like arcam8123 said, you could end up paying $300. As I recall, hydraulic or manual lift shouldn't matter for the liftable rear hitch (other than your arm muscles).

Don't JD 140s have individual wheel brakes? I know I would definitely want those. That's why I like the older 400-series Gravelys. They came standard with them.
 

· Small Engine Tech
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Of all the years I have gone to plow days, on Cubs, SGT Cubs and most of the other major brands, I have never, ever needed the turning brakes. A properly set up machine and plow will just not need them. Now if you want to push the envelope with a multi-bottom plow or a plow thats just to big for the tractor, then you might need them. Yes the 140 has the turning brakes, but is the earlier model with the disc rear brakes over the later and more prefered drum set up and ring/pinion rear end. If its going to be a real ***** to set her up, I may pass on it. The price I can get the tractor with snow blade and deck is excellent in my opinion. And like I said, it only needs a home and the hitch. The hitch for the 140 is in that same ball park money wise, maybe easier to find but not any cheaper.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
I agree that you shouldn't have to tap brakes every 10 seconds to stop constant wheel spin, but they really come in handy on all sizes of tractors, including GTs. You must have some lighter soil without rocks, so if you're not doing anything other than pulling a 10" Brinly plow at a pretty shallow depth, you'll probably be fine with the 16G as-is. I just wanted you to be aware that the individual wheel brake kits are a little pricey and harder to find since they're typically standard equipment on a lot of the GTs folks use at plow days.

As I said in your other post, check the PTO clutch. That's the big money and big labor item that is most commonly in need of replacement. If it's good, $1000 isn't a bad price, but if it's toast, $1000 is pretty high. It's definitely something I would check before dropping that kind of money.
 

· Small Engine Tech
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
He said it had no issues, what goes out on the PTO clutch? failure to engage at all or slippage? I will check it monday if I can, do I need to remove the snowblade and put the mower on to check it? Gravelys are a new thing to me
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
He said it had no issues, what goes out on the PTO clutch? failure to engage at all or slippage? I will check it monday if I can, do I need to remove the snowblade and put the mower on to check it? Gravelys are a new thing to me
There's a cone clutch inside the transmission that doesn't last very long if someone engages it improperly (like at high RPM) or lets it get out of adjustment. You get slippage first in heavy grass, for example, and then you get nothing when the lining burns through which doesn't take long once it starts going. If it wasn't used much it's probably fine, but worth checking. If you a do a search there are several threads on here showing what all is involved for replacement.

Also, I'm not sure if anyone has told you yet - many manuals are available online here: GravelyManuals.com - OldGravelys.info: :
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,006 Posts
The PTO clutch lining wears out so slippage. If treated right they do last a long time. The mower deck in somewhat high grass would be a good test.
 

· Gravely1964
Joined
·
4,254 Posts
He said it had no issues, what goes out on the PTO clutch? failure to engage at all or slippage? I will check it monday if I can, do I need to remove the snowblade and put the mower on to check it? Gravelys are a new thing to me
Main thing is check the free play with pto engaged in the slot for the lever. Should be about a 1/2 inch

Heres what goes if they slip

Auto part Rotor Weights Tool accessory Wheel
Theres suppose to be material there

Vehicle Automotive tire Tire Automotive wheel system Tractor
Not a fun job to change either :hide:

If it checks out I agree with John thats an ok price. By no means a steal but a nice looking machine!
 

· Small Engine Tech
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I knew it wasnt a steal, but a fair price. Not much grass to mow this time of year. I will look at the free play in the slot with it engaged. From the overall condition it looks to have led an easy life, even the paint wear on the foot rests is minimal. He was using it for snow removal and mowing with a Cub Cadet 1050. Mower deck is a 50". And no the repair/rebuild of the clutch doesn't look fun(was ready the sticky on it just now) but I have had worse torn apart in my years as a mechanic.
 

· Gravely1964
Joined
·
4,254 Posts
I knew it wasnt a steal, but a fair price. Not much grass to mow this time of year. I will look at the free play in the slot with it engaged. From the overall condition it looks to have led an easy life, even the paint wear on the foot rests is minimal. He was using it for snow removal and mowing with a Cub Cadet 1050. Mower deck is a 50". And no the repair/rebuild of the clutch doesn't look fun(was ready the sticky on it just now) but I have had worse torn apart in my years as a mechanic.
More than likely its alright then. Not keeping the clutch adjusted is the biggest killer of the pto and useing the wrong oil or run it low on oil. A very common time is around 600hrs on a clutch. But I've seen them go as much as 1000 hrs on the original to. All depends ok luck I suppose when it goes.

Truthfully to me anyhow it looks alot worse than it is. Just time consuming repair more than anything. I can do them in 6 hours if all goes smooth. I quote 8hrs in case I run into something. Usually do about 3 or 4 a year at work being a small engine mechanic myself. Parts wise is still around 500 ish I think to do it
 

· Small Engine Tech
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I dont even need it to mow truth be told. I might give it a work out once or twice a year at a friends but its more to take to shows, pull the moldboard plow and be different. Gravely's is the one brand I do not see out playing in the field on most all plowing events and not commonly seen at shows, atleast the riders. I myself am different, so I enjoy just being different. Only other thing I need to do is put chrome turnouts on the exhaust pipes so they are not blowing right back on my friend I pull around on a sulky at the huge Portland show and swap meets. Right now they angle downward just inboard of the stationary hitch. How much do the engine guards go for? Thats probably a smart item to mount back there. Mike
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top