[elsimon]

Sorry this is long...I have a few things I needs to tighten up, tweak and adjust on the FEL I installed on Saturday. But I am looking at what I should work on next. Here are the attachments and thoughts on each I got with the tractor:

1. Seeder - My son will be using the seeder so he is getting started on that one at his place.
2. Mowing Deck - My son has a riding mower already and I don't have the lawn that needs a riding mower (too much landscaping to justify a riding mower). This one will wait.
3. Front Plow - This one is interesting. As I used the FEL to clean up the piles of snow next to the driveway on Saturday I noticed the bucket did not scrape the ground very well. It is ice and packed snow, so that is understandable. The mounting for this plow is not stock and was fabbed by PO. I may need to remove the undercarriage for the FEL to put this on. I also have a JD plow that I adapted to my stock Bolens mounting bracket. I would like to build a bracket to attach my JD blade to the bucket mounts of the FEL.
4. Sickle Bar - My son might use the sickle bar a couple times a year, so that one will be his job to restore as well if he wants to use it.
5. Mortarboard Plow - I need the 3pt to attach this.
6. 3pt Hitch - I need this to attach the mortarboard plow.

Currently there is a steel box 14" x 14", 12.5" mounted where the 3 pt normally mounts. I have not weighed it, but by calculations it should be about 225 pounds. I like that weight for the FEL. I did notice when I first was playing on Saturday the tractor felt a bit tipsy with the bucket high and on a slight side angle. I can see why James has dualies.

Now that I have the FEL working I need to decide what to do next. I know come Spring I will need the Mortarboard Plow. With that the 3pt hitch. What has people done to add weight but still keep the 3pt attached. I have looked at wheel weights. This is an option but I already have the weighted box. Is there a 3pt attachment for weights? I am still looking locally for a Disc that I can use or modify to use. Once we Mortarboard Plow my son's garden plot I will need a disc to cut it finer.

Where should put my energies? I appreciate all input.

 

[TheSaturnV]

Sounds like the front plow will win out.

 

[GT_80]

I would look for the newer style black 3 point hitch- that one can be locked in the up position, and it is the only one that won't ruin your tailight bracket (the plastic tank tractors have issues with this when running a "white" 3 point hitch) You can hang a lot of weight off the 3 point. Make a custom metal box that sits between the 3 point arms and fill it with concrete like big tractors do.

 

[elsimon]

My 3pt hitch is black!!

Does anyone have pictures of the difference? I have no idea if the PO painted this black or what he might have done. I did figure out he did modify the FEL control lever bracket. It is not stock but has been fabbed to match the other style.

Does anyone have pictures (I will see if I can find any) of a weight box hanging off a 3pt hitch?

 

[el_simonito]

With the amount of snow that Utah has been getting lately, I wouldn't worry about getting the blade going. With the FEL you should be able to move anything that does come. I would worry more about getting the mouldboard ready as spring is comming quickly, and you will probably want that more than the plow. As you have stated, the JD plow is already on your Bolens, so could it not do any plowing that you need done?

 

[elsimon]

Here are a couple of pics I took of the weighted box that is attached to the 3pt mounting. There is also a pic of the 3pt.

 

[That_Guy]

that looks like more than enough weight in that box that is mounted, i wouldnt worry about making one to mount to the 3pt

 

[elsimon]

I was thinking of a 3pt attachment so it would be easier to mount attachments without having to remove the weight box, then mount the 3pt and then mount the attachment. This box is bolted on. Too time consuming to switch out. I would guess there is probably a weight limit for the 3pt.

I am going to draw up and calculate weights in the wheels. I will calculate it both steel and concrete Is there any reason other than to repair the wheel why I would need to have access under the weights? The reason I ask this is the Bolens I have has a manual differential locking hub on the left side. Some of the weights used on the tractors are doughnut shaped to allow access to the knob.

 

[Hugh-SS/16]

I would adapt the blade to fit the bucket mounting brackets on the F.E.L.

 

[GT_80]

Luckily that is the newer style 3 point hitch. You can tell because the handle plate that bolts to the hitch plate has 6 holes in it instead of 4 and on the right side where the sidle link meets the rotating part of the hadle, there is a second home that you put a 3/8" pin into for a "transport lock"


The part number for that hitch should be 917.253110

 

[elsimon]

That is great news. I got a line on some more attachments, checking into it later today.

I drew up wheel weights this morning. still roughed. If I make them out of steel 10" dia x 6" long they are about 130 pounds. If I cast them out of concrete they are only 40 pounds. I may cut the length down and do some other trimming to bring the weight down to maybe only 100 pounds for each wheel. " long makes them 110 pounds each. I still have to be able to put them on the wheel! I also could make a series of them. Then I could add weights as I needed them.

What is the typical weight of wheel weights for Sears tractors? From what I have read on other sites the general consensus is you are better off with wheel weights than weights added elsewhere. When the weight is directly on the wheel and does not have to be transferred through the machine and across the axle. What experience does other have?

 

[GT_80]

The Sears weights either came in 33lbs or 55lbs - the 33lbs could be double stacked but the 55lbs were too big to double stack. I would make them no more than 100 lbs each, and if you wanted, load the tires too- 7 gallons of washer fluid in each tire adds about 56 lbs more per side without adding any more stress on the axles.

 

[elsimon]

With a metal lathe in my shop and access to a waterjet cutter at work I can make them any shape or size I want. I am thinking of making them stackable. Probably in the 45-50 lbs range each.

One item I forgot to mention that I thought about was with the current weight that far out the back it helps the FEL with front to rear balancing. Adding the weights to the wheels though adds to the side to side stability and lowers my center of gravity. I will create a model to determine my best combination of the two options. If I put 100 lbs at each wheel and then build a 3pt attachment to add weights easily with a limit of another 100 lbs I should have plenty of weight (especially when I am sitting in the seat)! I wont say how much that adds.

 

[elsimon]

Found a small supply of center drop outs from large flanges that will work for wheel weights. All I have to pay is scrap weight! I have designed up stacking wheel weights that will weigh in at just under 50 pounds each. I will be able to put 2 on each wheel giving me 100 pounds at each wheel. Before I cut any metal I am going to make a sample piece of of wood to make sure my design fits.

I also will be getting the corner cuts (the flanges are round cut from square blanks). I will be building a rear attachment to stack these on. This will give me additional weight out the back to leverage against the FEL. Last night I was moving more snow and ice with the loader and I could tell when the load emptied out of the bucket. The whole tractor shifted backwards a bit.

The family says I am having TOO MUCH fun with this things! I have to tell them it is work getting all that snow and ice moved!

I have a lead on a Sears disc harrow.... Don't want to jinx this so I will post after I have it.

 

[GT_80]

Just a thought- the original sears rear tires are only 2 ply- if you are thinking of putting that much weight on the rear of the tractor, you may want to get some 4 ply or 6 ply tire. I don't know how much weight the factory tires are meant to handle. I think that is why sears had dual wheel kits for loaders

 

[elsimon]

James - Good thought! I will have to check and see what tires I have on. I haven't noticed any cracking so I am hoping the tires have been replaced in the last 35 years and they put better tires on it. I have planned on checking the actual weight of the box this weekend. I have an overhead hoist that will I will use to remove it. By my calculations it should weight about 225. Since it was already on when I got the tractor and I have used it a few times I had assumed (possibly wrongly) that the tires could handle it.

My intent with the wheel weights was to put that weight directly into the wheels. This would lower my vertical center of gravity as well as move it farther out from the tractor centerline. This would give me a more stable base when using the FEL. It would unfortunately move the front/rear C of G farther forward. With that move my intent was to add some weight back onto the rear to compensate for that. With a 3pt attachment I could design it to not only move the weight back but also spread it out side to side, again to help stabilize the tractor while using the FEL. I do know while operating the tractor there is a dead weight (200+ on the seat). There is a program in place to help with that weight (to lower it!).

Thanks for the thoughts. :thanku:

 

[el_simonito]

What did you ever find out about those attachments? Do you have a new project with them?

 

[elsimon]

Good news and bad news....

Bad news first - I am thankful for James to mention my tires. They indeed are cracked. Some of the cracks are concerning me. Since I will not be using this tractor for mowing I am thinking I will go with AGs. The tires on the rear are Sears brand, 2 ply, size 23 X 10 X 12. Now to find some relatively inexpensive tires....I know "good luck". Are there any concerns I should have with using the FEL with Ags?

Good news #1 - I had 3 disks cut out of plywood to verify my idea for wheel weights. They worked just like I had hoped. Now I can finish my design and have the weights actually made. With the weights in the wheels I can concentrate on reworking the 3pt hitch and attachments.

Good news #2 - I didn't jinx myself. I was able to score a 3pt disc harrow for $60 (the cute model with the disc is my redheaded granddaughter). There is a bit of damage/wear on the discs, but it shouldn't be too much to fix. I haven't seen it yet other than the picture. My son picked it up for me. I will go take a look at it next week.

 

[Slow Crawler]

http://www.greaterclevelandtire.com/servlet/the-Super-Lug,-AG,-Big-Biter-Tires/Categories
That is where I got my ags. that is the cheepest I have found.I hope this helps you out
:thThumbsU:thThumbsU

 

[elsimon]

If the turf tires that are on the tractor are 23.00 x 10.00 x 12.00, what size Ags do people recommend? Is there a range I can go with for any of the dimensions? Obviously I can't change the rim diameter size. Stupid question: Which dimension is which?

I have seen on other forums where people have used ATV tires as a cross between turf and AGs. Any thoughts on this?