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Discussion Starter #1
I want to make an adapter plate with a "J" slot so I can allow my Powered Sleeve Hitch to Float.
How long should I make the Float Slot?
The Actuator has a 4" stroke.
The Sleeve Hitch is a Sears/Husqvarna.

The idea of a "J" shaped slot is so I can gain Ground Clearance easily for transport.
If the "J" slot is a bad idea, you won't hurt my feelings.

Something like this rough sketch, but I will place the Attachment Hole more central to retain strength and trim the bottom too.



Yesterday I used the Blade on a 100' long Gravel Driveway. It went well except where it transitions to concrete.
At one end there is a small abrupt drop and the other a rise.
There I tried to be careful and feather the blade.

I had to make quite a few passes to bring the Gravel to the top.
When I was done I walked up and down the drive, thinking it looked pretty good and I was happy with the results.

Unfortunately, last night when drove my Miata, with a Very sensitive Suspension, onto it I was quickly aware of the washboard I created.



Last year soon after buying my GT I bought an Agri-Fab Box Blade to level an area around a Septic Line/Clean-out installation.
The crew left that area on the lawn bare and in pretty rough shape.
The grass/weeds that started growing became a torturous bronco ride to mow.
After the experience of leveling that out, I decided that I wanted a Powered Lift and the capability of applying down force.
Later, on a small job, I realized the need for the blade to float, but never gave it a thought after that.
Now I want to do something about it.

Thank for your thought on this.
Rich
 

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Retired Super Moderator - Deceased September 2015
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26,679 Posts
Most slots are about 2" long for float. Make it so you can still use it without the float option. The "J" pattern you suggest might work great as long as it doesn't catch in the J when you want it to float.:fing32:
 

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I would think it really doesn't matter how long it is, as long as it is long enough... A lot is going to depend on your sleeve hitch linkage and angle/length too. Hard to give you a "good" answer on that because of all the variables...

When I built my sleeve hitch, I made the lift arm link the same angle and length as the tractor lift arm. I keep 2 link bars on hand for it - one is a float link, and the other is fixed. I bought a ready-made slotted bar at the local tractor supply and use that as the float link. The slot on that is at least 6" long, but the way I mounted it, the slack isn't hanging down so it really wouldn't matter if it was 10". When I want down force, I use the other link bar. I can see a good argument for keeping several different links around though. If I ever come across a situation where I need "some" float, but also the need to limit the float and still have the ability to apply down force, I might want to build a third one... Again - no firm and fixed response here... I'd have to experiment to find the right parameters. One thing I have done, is to slip a bolt through the slot and tighten it down with a nut - effectively limiting the length of the slot. That works to make it temporarily "adjustable".


For reference: my factory tiller came with a 4" float slot, but that isn't a sleeve-hitch mounted unit - it has its own mount assembly which mounts much higher than a sleeve hitch would/should.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was going through some metal to take to the scrapper and put aside a piece of steel I thought might work for my Float Adapter.

I'm not sure what happened to the images I posted so here is the original sketch.

I spent time during this evening's storm in my shop and made this piece.
I'ts pretty simple and just in primer.


Here's a Tracing of the piece:


And here is the Tracing with the "J" section I may add if I need extra height for transport.
 

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What I did with my float bar was to add an extra hole at the slot end, and another at the opposite end. I kept the same spacing between hole1 to slot, and hole 2 to hole 2 on the opposite side. I can now use the same bar for float operation or fixed by un-doing a couple pins and moving to the other set of holes. Works great and I don't need to go searching for another bar... it's always there.

I learned the hard way on a load of rocks the other day. I forgot the bar floats, so when I started moving, the load shifted enough to "float" the hitch tongue, which tipped the trailer back enough to trip the tilt latch and dump all the rocks! UGH!!! That's when I took the bar into the garage and drilled a second set of holes... :fing32:

I'm not so much worried about carrying a load in the lifted position, since my actuator will hold 1000 lbs static.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Having a 2nd/3rd hole for the Actuator sounds like the Best option.
I'm nixing the 'J" slot idea.

Our Hitches may be constructed differently, so I'm going to attach the bracket as is.
Then depending on the fitment, determine exactly where to place the additional hole/holes.

Thanks
Rich
 
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