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Discussion Starter #1
Just seeing what everyone else is using in their Farmalls. This is what I plan on using in my 1941 Farmall M:

Motor Oil: 8 Qtrs of 15W-40 (Valvoline)
Hydraulic: 6 Qtrs of SAE 30 (Vavloline)
Transmission: 13 Gallons of 80W-90 (Valvoline)
Coolant/Antifreeze: 3 Gallons Pure, Topped off with water (Prestone)

Just list what you use!

Thanks!
 

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I use straight 30 in my M. I may be wrong but I believe the last time I changed the oil in my M The engine took 9 qts.
 

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15w-40 is to stiff to turn over fast enough in mine to start, except for warm weather temps in the 60's or higher.
You'd be better off with say a 10w-30 in the winter and a straight 30 in the warmer weather months like the fellows said. Remember; NO engine manufacture has ever recommended a straight 30 weight in ambient air temps below 36 degrees f... Back in the "Old Days" they'd switch to a 20 weight till it got to 5 or 10 above zero, then switch to a straight 10 wieght for even colder temps. So a 10w-30 would cover you for most temps.
I use a Delo product from Chevron for my 80-90 gear oil as is uses Borate instead of Sulfer and Phosporus as the extreme pressure additive. The sulfer/phos. combination (common to most all brands) over time will eat up yellow metals such as brass & bronze. Since I don't have a clue what's in that tranny, seemed like a good choice.
As for the anti-freeze... I used to use the plain jane cheap greenish yellow stuff. Then I learned about the red colored extended life stuff. No silicates (Sand/Grit) to grind away pump bearings, No Nitrates to make that white insulating film on the hoses and else where.
It's double the money, but it's advertised to last 750,000 miles or something like 15 years.
Not pushing Chevron by any means, but I attended a deal at the local college that was put on by an independant outfit. That fellow staited that Chevron for example, really had no idea just how long that Delo anti-freeze they put out was actually good for. The test samples haven't worn out yet and for the money, that's what he would buy any day of the week for engines with removable cylinder sleeves. Gas or Diesel.
All fairness aside, he seemed to be more familiar with the Pennzoil line.
 

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If the motor has not been freshly rebuilt, as in the last rebuild was 30 years ago, then a huge amound of gunk may have been built up in the pan, head, oil gallies ..etc.....using a detergent oil after 30 plus years would release grime thats ,basicly glued in place at this point, and allow it to run free in the oil...like a sand milkshake. This is why i use non detergent, ...so i can oil the parts and not release the gunk. If it were a day one fresh rebuild, with a clean boiled block, then yeah i would use a detergent oil.
 

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I have an old Onan generator from the 1940's that was run on ND oil. I had to coax the lumps out of the drain with a screwdriver. I treated it with some 30W HD oil and a quart of kerosene, and ran it for a while. This got all the remaining gunk into suspension, and I was able to drain it all out (no lumps this time). Now, with detergent oil, the oil stays nice and clean. Next oil change it will get synthetic oil, like all my other engines.
 

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ND oil is not recommended in any internal combustion engine. That's an old wive's tale from 60 years ago, when all oils were not-detergent.
I've seen MANY old engines ruined from going to modern HD detergent oil,after running ND for 50-60 years.It breaks all the sludge free,clogs up oil ports,pickup screens ect..Not a wives tale by any means.If your engine has been rebuilt,and cleaned out(hot tanked)good that's different.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This motor has not been rebuilt, so I am going to switch the ND30.
 

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If your going to run it this winter and it gets below freezing, remember to use a ND20 or ND 10 because there isn't a Non-detergent 10w-30 that I have seen.
Your engines wearing parts will thank you in the long run.
 

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If your going to run it this winter and it gets below freezing, remember to use a ND20 or ND 10 because there isn't a Non-detergent 10w-30 that I have seen.
Your engines wearing parts will thank you in the long run.
This,or preheat the engine.
 

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As some has mentioned before non detergent oil sucks big time. If you are too busy to remove the pan and clean it properly inside , a flush with a couple of liters of cleaning agent and a couple of fairly quick oil changes watching the oil for crap and oil pressure is the way I have always went with good results. Unless the PO said he used nothing but ND I would never put any in. The only engine ever saw destroyed by using detergent oil was an old rambler bought from an old hermit. The young guy said the the oil had never been changed but was clean and he added a quart of regular oil to top up. That was it.

I cleaned the oil pan on a 1928 MD 15 30 by opening the crankcase inspection holes. Then an engine cleaning gun blasted the crud loose from the bottom. I personally have seen more problems caused by ND oil and crud in the crankcase blocking flow to the oil pump by ignoring the problem and using ND oil thinking there is no problem. Also you guys that are great on ND oil be sure to inform the next owners of your way of servicing the tractor. They will need to know to deal with the tractor and I would certainly look else where to buy.
cheers
George
 

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ND 30 in the BN and the 8N
 
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