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I agree with the setting a "click type" back to zero, it unloads the beam inside.
But, as for the accuracy, have you ever checked it?

I also have a old C-man click type that I bought new in the 70's. My 1st tool out of HS.
Some years later, I worked as a tech in a diesel engine development group, building and testing engines all day.
Early on, many of us used our own torque wrenches, until the shop bought a bunch for everyone to use.
Anyway, because we cared about accurate torque on fasteners, we would have our wrenches calibrated by the factory inspection department.

Based on that, I can say that,
1 - "click type" wrenches are not linear, (at least the wrenches we had, which included several common brands) meaning they don't match the setting value from zero to max, and in fact the slope is different so at one end it is above desired value and on the other it's below. (not sure which way off hand). There is only 1 point where the actual value matched the setting value.
2 - they do change with time or maybe use, (not sure which) - we would check them every 6 months or so. (I suspect, but don't know, that the tapered point on the end of the beam wears causing a shift in the "break point".)

On mine, I taped a small piece of paper that indicated the setting and actual torque values.

When your torque wrench isn't in use it should be set back to 0 torque value on the wrench to preserve its accuracy and internal components.
I'm still using my Dad's torque wrench that is at least 50 yrs old. It is a stainless steel Sear Craftsman and it is still accurate because it has been maintained and stored properly.
 

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While it is always nice to have your employer pay for calibrating a torque wrench, it can be a bit pricey for the average user. Prices start at $50 each for under 100 ft lbs and go up from there.
 
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My 1/4" drive Ryobi 18V impact will take off and tighten the 1/2" lug nuts on my Cub 3240. I'll do a torque check on it tonight if I remember and post the results.
 

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OK. Checked my Ryobi 18V P234G 1/4" drive impact. 5/8" bolt, 15/16" head size. Torqued to 50 then 70 ft/lbs with my 3/8" Snap-on torque wrench. The little Ryobi zipped both torques off like it was nothing.

That was the max on the little torque wrench so I got out the 1/2" split beam and put 100ft/lbs on it. The YT vid is it zipping that off.

It surprised me and I don't think I need more than 100 ft/lbs out of a 1/4" drive impact. This uses a screwdriver bit size socket, can't even believe the shank doesn't snap off.

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I have a bunch of air tools from my truck mechanic days but I pick up my Ryobi 1/4" cordless impact every time I can over dragging a hose out. I'll eventually buy a 1/2" but gotta wait on a deal. Not a terrible price at $139 with a battery pack and charger right now.


Those battery impact mfgs claiming "1400ft/lbs torque" are crazy. When I used to torque Cummins 855 head bolts we'd hammer them with a 1/2" impact till they stopped moving, bump them with a 3/4" impact, then click them with a 4ft long 3/4" drive torque wrench set to 305ft/lbs. We called that "torquing in sequence" (1/2" impact to 3/4" impact :D)

Below is what it really takes to hit 1400ft/lbs. 35lb CP797 tire gun. Rattled one for thousands of lug nuts with 160psi running it in truck shops. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NOX2T4?tag=paramatandalin-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1


They'll probably take off the nuts if you have enough air volume and use a 3/8" hose--1/4" curly hose won't get it. . How big is your compressor? Tank size, HP, and CFM?
Funny I just bought this one, the P261, since it's 1/2 inch, to try on my x350 deck blades that seem to have the bolts welded to the deck. Haven't had the chance to try it yet. As you said $139 not too expensive. But the 1/2 inch impact sockets aren't cheap either.
 

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My Harbor Freight impact sockets haven't let me down yet, and they're cheap. One example (these look like mine, though mine came in a metal case):
 

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My Harbor Freight impact sockets haven't let me down yet, and they're cheap. One example (these look like mine, though mine came in a metal case):
...Ditto...

I've used those on my RV, to remove tires, and the bolts on the front-wheel-to-rotor-spacers, which really didn't want to come off.

For that job, I used a HF electric impact wrench.

Mike
 

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My Harbor Freight impact sockets haven't let me down yet, and they're cheap. One example (these look like mine, though mine came in a metal case):
FWIW John Deere blade bolts are Metric, so buy the Metric version of the link provided.

Closest I could find.

Bob
 

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Funny I just bought this one, the P261, since it's 1/2 inch, to try on my x350 deck blades that seem to have the bolts welded to the deck. Haven't had the chance to try it yet. As you said $139 not too expensive. But the 1/2 inch impact sockets aren't cheap either.
If it hits as hard as the little 1/4" model it should do the trick pretty easily.
 

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Check this one out. 600ft/lbs.

Cool, thanks for posting that! The last time I'd looked at the Ryobi impact offerings, I was a bit disappointed. As I recall, the highest-torque option I was finding on Ryobi's site was 350 ft-lbs or thereabouts. And around this same price. Whereas other brands went to significantly higher torque.
 

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Cool, thanks for posting that! The last time I'd looked at the Ryobi impact offerings, I was a bit disappointed. As I recall, the highest-torque option I was finding on Ryobi's site was 350 ft-lbs or thereabouts. And around this same price. Whereas other brands went to significantly higher torque.
There's a YT review on this one. It does take off 600ft/lbs. I think it torqued to ~250.
 

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I have a Milwaukee M18 fuel 3/8" impact that works really well on blade swaps, but before I got it my M18 impact driver took the nuts off, although I wouldn't recommend it for this type of use.
I also have a pneumatic impact from HF that works well and will do the same for less, it's just more of a hassle to pull out the air hose so it doesn't get used nearly as often.

For changing blades any impact will work. If you go battery, get a quality one that will have batteries available in a couple years likeRyobi, Makita, DeWalt, or Milwaukee.
 

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I have a Milwaukee M18 fuel 3/8" impact that works really well on blade swaps, but before I got it my M18 impact driver took the nuts off, although I wouldn't recommend it for this type of use.
What's the difference between these two???

Mike
 

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What's the difference between these two???

Mike
Found this.

"M18, M18 brushless, M18 fuel.
M18 standard are motor with brushes and therefore are the cheapest. M18 fuel are their top of the line brushless motors. M18 brushless costs less than fuel, but I'm not sure if that's because they are older models or because they are actually inferior to the M18 fuel.
Standard M18 tools should be more than adequate for a homeowner, except I would not get the standard M18 if it is something where a weaker motor could bog down and not finish a job that the fuel motor would. For instance, I wouldn't get a standard M18 brushed motor in a hammer drill, circular saw, impact gun, etc. The extra power from the M18 fuel is worth the price on those tools."
https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/c71djl
 

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What's the difference between these two???

Mike
Impact driver is designed to drive screws and lag bolts. It has a quick connect designed to fit bits.
Impact wrench is designed to remove nuts and bolts. It accepts sockets in a specific size (3/8", 1/2" etc)
Basically both use the same type of impact, but a wrench is heavier duty.

Milwaukee M18 has some older tools that are brushed, but I think most are brushless. They have a few series.
M18 lowest and more prosumer - I have a couple of these tools
M18 brushless/compact - I have a drill and my impact driver is from this line
M18 Fuel - most powerful and heavy duty, also the newer ones are quite energy efficient as it only draws power it actually needs. - I have an older hammer drill and 3/8" impact wrench as well as the string trimmer that are fuel.

Best thing is tbey all use the same batteries.
 

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OK, thanks for the clarification. I waited forever to start buying better tools, and now I'm a M18 Fuel snob.

Not really a snob, but I am trying to stay on one battery platform, and decided to go with a higher-end system instead of the cheapest for a change.

Mike
 
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I use to own a landscaping business, Commercial and Residential Accounts.
Use to Change my Mower Blades every night.
Changed blades thousands of times.
Used a Boxend Wrench under the deck and 1/2" drive x 24" torque wrench on top.
One time my boxend wrench slipped while torquing it down.
I wrapped my hand up as soon as I realized, 2 of my fingers laying on the ground.
It took 3 doctors 4 hours to re-attach them.

Needless to say, I made a change after that.
I now fish welding gloves, on both ends of the blade before removing and installing them.
Please learn from my mistake!!!

I took me almost a year, to get full movement back in my Fingers.

Also when picking your parts, put them on Ice so you can get them re-attach.

The Doctors were Amazed, I did that.
Said if not for that, they wouldn't have even tried to put them back on.

Just Saying!!!!





Sent from my SM-J737VPP using Tapatalk
 

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I had no intention of picking up a battery 1/2" impact but couldn't pass this up today. P261 Ryobi on FB for $50. Rated at 300ftlbs.

Got home and hit my Tacoma lug nuts. Zipped off like they were hand tight. The tiny amt I hit them in the vid was enough to make the torque wrench just click set at 85ftlbs.

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