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Discussion Starter #1
I am hearing I should run a no ethanol gas? Should I also run premium octane or 93. Also my mower may get run once a week is a fuel stabilizer product a good idea to add to gas? I will of course run it dry for winter storage.
 

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If you can get your hands on non ethanol it is the way to go.....can't get it in a lot of areas..unless your manual says otherwise 89 octane is fine...run it out of fuel for winter is a great idea....that does not mean turn off the fuel valve and leave stuff in the tank...run the tank dry....use stabilizer in the last load of gas to run it out...it can't hurt....if your fuel is going to be around for more than 30 days use stabilizer...I like seafoam....it is a stabilizer and does enhance the way your engine runs...is this a brand new tractor...or just new to you?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The dealer said to change oil after 8 hours. However the sticker under the hood has forst change at 100 hours. Should I change it at 8 hours? Then Id rather do every 50 to be on the well maintained side.
 

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Sounds like a new tractor...did you get a manual with it?...what does manual say?....100 hours sounds like a long stretch to me...what kind of tractor?
 

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I put a double dose of Stabil and a few ounces of Seafoam in each tank of fuel I buy.
 
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As was previously asked what brand of tractor/engine and have you referenced the manual?
We do not have non ethanol fuel so I use the plus grade. Every fuel can that gets filled here is topped off with the recommended amount of Sta-Bil and a small dose of Seafoam also.

I have a Kohler on my relatively new Cub and the dealer advised to change the engine break-in oil at 10 hours and per the manual every 100 hrs. thereafter. After the initial break-in oil change it gets changed every 50 hrs. (once a season for me) for no more oil that is required for an oil change plus the filter.

The manual also states to change the hydro break-in oil at 50 hrs. then every 200 hrs. thereafter; I changed the break-in oil @ 40 hrs.

Good luck.(y)
 

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"I put a double dose of Stabil and a few ounces of Seafoam in each tank of fuel I buy."

Wow! I consider that a big waste of money, In about 40 years of running nothing but 10% ethanol which is all that is available here, in 8 engines running from 5 to a 60 year old AKN Wisconsin, engines 2 and 4 cycle, and what is in there at the end of season is what is there come spring, only time I ever had a problem was when I was coned into using some Stabil which turned out to be out of date. Luckily I only used it in 2 engines. I am always amazed at the stories I read here.
Walt Conner
 

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Discussion Starter #8
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If you can get your hands on non ethanol it is the way to go.....can't get it in a lot of areas..unless your manual says otherwise 89 octane is fine...run it out of fuel for winter is a great idea....that does not mean turn off the fuel valve and leave stuff in the tank...run the tank dry....use stabilizer in the last load of gas to run it out...it can't hurt....if your fuel is going to be around for more than 30 days use stabilizer...I like seafoam....it is a stabilizer and does enhance the way your engine runs...is this a brand new tractor...or just new to you?
It is a brand new X350.
 

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There is another thread that has been running for about a week regarding non ethanol fuel...like you I am not able to get ethanol free gasoline....there must be different formulas in different areas....most people, including me, in the other thread reported problems with ethanol free gas unless precautions were taken...stabil, seafoam, ...something...only 2 guys...maybe 3 say as you do that they have not had problems with it....so if one take no precautions and has a problem...he has no one to blame but himself .....so to spend a few bucks in an effort to avoid problems is money well spent...if a problem arises...it is not from lack of trying...I do know that Stabil itself does not have a long shelf life...,,as Kubota Ronin said in that other thread...what ever works for you
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As was previously asked what brand of tractor/engine and have you referenced the manual?
We do not have non ethanol fuel so I use the plus grade. Every fuel can that gets filled here is topped off with the recommended amount of Sta-Bil and a small dose of Seafoam also.

I have a Kohler on my relatively new Cub and the dealer advised to change the engine break-in oil at 10 hours and per the manual every 100 hrs. thereafter. After the initial break-in oil change it gets changed every 50 hrs. (once a season for me) for no more oil that is required for an oil change plus the filter.

The manual also states to change the hydro break-in oil at 50 hrs. then every 200 hrs. thereafter; I changed the break-in oil @ 40 hrs.

Good luck.(y)
I think I will change it at 8 hours and again at 50. John deere reccomends 100 oil change intervals. A little lengthy for me 😉
 

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It is a brand new X350.
That is a nice little tractor...best of luck with it...but before you go running it take a good look at the manual....see what fuel it calls for and the fluid and filter change intervals
I think you will use it less than 50 hours a year...you might want to consider going over the whole tractor every spring...oil, filter, ( make sure you know what oil to use ) grease...look at the belts, clean the battery terminals....find the grease fittings on the spindles ( if they are there) ...best of luck and happy seat time
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There is another thread that has been running for about a week regarding non ethanol fuel...like you I am not able to get ethanol free gasoline....there must be different formulas in different areas....most people, including me, in the other thread reported problems with ethanol free gas unless precautions were taken...stabil, seafoam, ...something...only 2 guys...maybe 3 say as you do that they have not had problems with it....so if one take no precautions and has a problem...he has no one to blame but himself .....so to spend a few bucks in an effort to avoid problems is money well spent...if a problem arises...it is not from lack of trying...I do know that Stabil itself does not have a long shelf life...,,as Kubota Ronin said in that other thread...what ever works for you
Wouldnt just non ethanol gas, 89 octane of higher be good minus additives. I dont see a need for putting stable in when I dont keep gas long. Seafoam is a product I am not familiar with. So you consider it a benefit as an additive to every tank?
 

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X570 manual says oil and filter change at 8 hours, then every 100 hours or annually. So at the first 8 hours, then annually. I don't think most people use their machines 100 hours a year.
 

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I am not afraid to leave non-ethanol gas in a tank for a couple of months. I do use Sta-bil in every tank of gas I run in my tractors after having problems from treated ethanol gas. I feel the small cost is worth it to me.

We have a small, very vocal handfull of people on the forum who like to disregard others bad experiences with alcohol laden gas. Thats all fine and dandy but it doesnt lessen the fact that the majority of people on this forum have had problems with it.

I won't run ethanol gas in any of my OPE ever again after having destroyed fuel lines and the dreaded "white goo" plugging up carbs.
 
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Deere says to always add a stabilizer when fuel is purchased, 87 octane or higher, max 10% alcohol.
 

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I run 89 octane ethanol free in everything I own. No stabil, sea foam or any other snake oil and never have a problem. I don't store gas longer than 30 days, if it's getting close I dump it into my truck and use it up.
 

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I can't get ethanol-free. From my understanding, there's no benefit, for 4-cycle small engines, to higher-octane gas (unless you live somewhere that premium is ethanol-free). They don't have knock sensors and variable ignition timing. So I get 87.

I use Stabil Marine currently, I add it to my gas can every time I fill it. I consider it cheap insurance. Gas may go in the generator and sit for a while, etc, even though I drain or run the carb dry, for equipment that will be put away for a while.

Amazon has 32oz Marine Stabil 360 for $20, it treats 320 gallons. At about $0.06/gallon of fuel treated, I don't mind, even if it didn't make a difference. Peace of mind for a few dollars a year has value to me. I haven't had new carb issues crop up since starting to use stabilizer. But I do try to run my carbs dry now at the end of the season, which should help.
https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22240-Marine-Vapor-Technology/dp/B001CAW2DK

And agreed with changing the oil after 5-8 hours, then maybe at 50, then following the schedule. If your transmission is serviceable, I would change that oil (and filter) as well, my machine suggests that after the first 50 hours, then every 200.
 

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Today's oils don't need to be changed earlier than Deere is recommending.
Deere does have different recommendations for different engines.

It does also depend on the hours per year.

Many machines will need to be changed based on the calendar (annual change) rather than a change based on hours.

A change before storage (or at least late in the season) will get ride of chemical action from working on the 'inerds' during the off-season.

Of course, some are in use 12 months per year.

Last 'new' ag tractor I bought was a 7230R.
9.0L (549 cu in) 230HP eng.
Engine oil and filter change interval -- 500 hours.

I'm not suggesting that lawn and garden size will ever have intervals like ag sizes, and I'm certainly not suggesting going longer than the OM schedules, but as oils (and engine design) have improved so have recommended intervals. Before 500 hour intervals there were 250 intervals, Before than 100 hour intervals. Before that ???
Just suggesting there is no need to 2nd guess Deere's OM intervals (and don't ignore the 'or annually' part).
Perhaps give them 'extra service' by using Deere branded fluids instead of sourcing somewhere else.

(man, I'm startin' to sound like a fan-boy...)
 

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There was some discussion about the Shelf Life of Sta-Bil. This is from their website.


 

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A few years ago while attending a service update school we were told that Sta Bil forms a protective layer over the fuel. That is fine they said if the unit is NOT moved any movement of the fuel will break up the coating and allow oxygen to get to he fuel. Also was told to not use the red Sta Bil but to use the marine (blue) Sta Bil it is made for more moist areas. Have no idea if other products do the same. Have had some units present for repair and it appeared they had poured the whole container of Sta Bil in the tank. Yep still wouldn't start ! I use and recommend Sea Foam it cleans and stabilizes. Would much rather use NON ethanol gasoline though. It does not degrade as does the ethanol containing gasoline, Nothing in it to draw the moisture from the air. Have removed a lot of carburetor bowls full of jello or white powder and lots of corrosion. If a unit is to be stored for 30 days or more I recommend draining the complete fuel system. Be aware some fuel systems when run until it stops does not completely drain the carburetor as the jet intake is some distance above the bottom of the bowl. Again as for using high test or premium fuel, If the OM does not call for it you don't need it. What is high octain gasoline? and why is it available? High octain gasoline resists detonation and is used is high compression engines. Certainly not most air or liquid cooled engines used in lawn mowers and OPE. But that said some two strokes can be considered high compression. Again check your OM on what the manufacturer recommends. High test also contains the same ethanol as does regular, the biggest difference is the resistance to detonation and it may contain more additives and detergents. Why empty your pocket faster? If it resists detonation can it also resist starting?
 
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