I think it depends on location. Close to the citys there seems to be more old Sears tractors and they sell cheaper. 300 to 500 for a nice working unit, restored or not. Also restored can be a tricky word. Here's a couple I did. One I sandblasted every part. The other I sanded rust and painted.
New tire's ?? Rebuild ?? It all depends on what restored means.
I bit and bought it for $600. it is not too restored. I will have to change somethings(like maybe add duals) and fix some cosmetic stuff. the seller takes derelict tractors and rebuild the engines and paints them enough to get
them running well.
I was really impressed with how substantial these older tractors are vs the new craftsman products.
I live in Southern Calif, where a lot of folks just leave their tractors out in the elements. This one must have sat out in the sun for awhile, also, because after I bought it and loaded it in my trailer, I pressed lightly on the plastic dashboard panel down by the two bottom bolts,on the left side, holding it to the body, and it cracked. So I will try to figure out how to fix 30+ year old plastic??? Anybody have any ideas? Fiberglass and epoxy? Is that a part that can be bought from somewhere, if so where?
In a way, I can see why someone would not want a restored or semi-restored tractor. If I had more time it seems like a rewarding hobby to do the restoring oneself. I don't think I'll need to sell it anytime soon, so I'm not too worried about what I could get for it right away. I am more interested in learning about tractors, and how to fix and use them properly. And there is always that learning curve as to what is too much to pay and whats a steal. And if this time I didn't make a good deal I can rationalize that by saying thats the price of getting educated:thThumbsU
I was supposed to cool it for awhile and figure out what kind of wheels I was going to get for the dgs6500, but I saw this on craigs list and ...oh well. Now I have to figure out wheel configurations for two tractors.
I was wondering if duals harm the transaxle or transmission, or if adding 2" wheel spacers and putting a 24x12 12 at101 on a 13" widened wheel would hurt anything.
I'll try to post pictures in the next couple of days.
Congrats on the purchase, I too just bought a ST-16 on Sunday and it runs good but needs allot of cosmetic work. I paid $250 for it but I will end up building a new body for it in a hot rod feel. I build custom hot rods and will be purchasing an English wheel next month and figure this is a good project for it. I will only be using mine for moving around trailers and non running vehicles between the shops so it should do just fine for that.
Ebay is a good place for parts. Some of the dashes where white fiberglass and the later ones where black plastic.
Becarful with the fiberglass hood hings, they can break pretty easy also. Other then that they are a pretty tough unit.
Thanks Small Fry. I googled the model # 917.25940 and found it was a 1976 at this sight. http://www.geocities.com/sware56920/newsuburban.html. I will see what I can do to fix the plastic first, then if I am unsuccessful, I'll head to ebay. The steering wheel is a little off but still sound, so that can wait.
Should I start a new thread to try to get answers on the dually vs extensions question I posted in the thread?
Well, I was wondering about duals because in other threads I've read concerns about stressing the transaxle. ??? I'm am way new (green)to this and was trying to find the safest and least stressful(to the equipment and me) way to lower the center of gravity on these two tractors so I can use them across 15 to 20 degree slopes without rolling.My property is quite hilly.
It seems most of the folks talking about duallys are using them because they have a front loader and are on flat terrain.
I also didn't know if I could still use the wheel weights on the outer wheels which seems as if that would really stablize the tractor, but makes me wonder what effect that would have on the wheel flanges and axle.or if the stresses would transfer to the transmission.
If I couldn't use the wheel weights I was thinking about using 2" spacers and 13" wide 12" wheels and put a 24x12 12 tire on them to widen the tire contact with the ground, (according to a tractor pull sight I was perusing.)
Even though the dgs6500 is a garden tractor, I really like the feel of the ST/16, it feels more stable, maybe because it seems heavier.
So I figured out my MAC and pics (I hope). Like I said before it needs work but runs great and should pull my car trailer just fine. I do have one question, how stable are the 3 pts on these tractors? Once weight is applied do they tend to stay set or do they flop down easily? I have noticed with mine in the up position when I hit a bump it flops down but that is with out weight on it.
Also any clues as to what year this may be?
Thanks for any insight.