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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished the first oil change on my 8n since I inherited it. It is showing 36xxx some odd hours. I have not started the tractor yet, but I was talking to a friend of mine about what type of oil to use. I filled it with 6 qts. of 10w30. He was telling me that they tractor likes plain 30 weight oil with out all of the detergents/additives of todays oils. Is he right? Should I drain this out and fill it with a different oil? If so where can I get the proper oil? He told me that the 10w30 would be fine but it may smoke a little. Can you guys give me some advice. Thanks.
 

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The addatives are fine... it's the weight.

10w oil may be too thin if your engine is worn... then again.. if the oil pump works good and bearing tollerances are banging around.. 10w30 might be fine.

i know guys that rebuild their engines and then go in with 10w30 no problem.

at this point.. 'bout the only thing you can do is start her up and kee yer eye on the oil pressure gauge... if she don't come up positive within a few seconds.. then yo know she's got some wear... if she comes up nd has real low pressure.. you know you will want different oil.

other popular oils are 15w40 and 20w50.. both good for warm climates on machines with moderate wear.

straight 30w and 40w are good for machines with more wear and working in harsh hot climates... downside to 30w and 40w is it may take a few more seconds to build oil pressure when very cold... that's where something like a 20w50 oil would be nice in place of a 40w.

start her up.. if she has enough oil pressure to run.. run her a bit.. if you would like to see mor eoil pressure.. change that oil after a few hours and call it a 'flush'.. and go in with something like 20w50. I always advise replacing the oil pressure gaige on a new-to-me machine.. old gauges can be a few pounds off... +/- 4 psi on a machine with 5 psi is a big deal!..

as for limits.. most people are happy seeing any positive reading on a gauge.. but 6 psi per 1000 rpm should be a realistic minimum.. IE.. lots old used up Ns running around that have 5 psi at hot idle, and maybe 10-12 at pto speed.. ( more is better. but those are the lows you see.. that or just plain drop to -0- when hot from so much wear.. )

soundguy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The addatives are fine... it's the weight.

10w oil may be too thin if your engine is worn... then again.. if the oil pump works good and bearing tollerances are banging around.. 10w30 might be fine.

i know guys that rebuild their engines and then go in with 10w30 no problem.

at this point.. 'bout the only thing you can do is start her up and kee yer eye on the oil pressure gauge... if she don't come up positive within a few seconds.. then yo know she's got some wear... if she comes up nd has real low pressure.. you know you will want different oil.

other popular oils are 15w40 and 20w50.. both good for warm climates on machines with moderate wear.

straight 30w and 40w are good for machines with more wear and working in harsh hot climates... downside to 30w and 40w is it may take a few more seconds to build oil pressure when very cold... that's where something like a 20w50 oil would be nice in place of a 40w.

start her up.. if she has enough oil pressure to run.. run her a bit.. if you would like to see mor eoil pressure.. change that oil after a few hours and call it a 'flush'.. and go in with something like 20w50. I always advise replacing the oil pressure gaige on a new-to-me machine.. old gauges can be a few pounds off... +/- 4 psi on a machine with 5 psi is a big deal!..

as for limits.. most people are happy seeing any positive reading on a gauge.. but 6 psi per 1000 rpm should be a realistic minimum.. IE.. lots old used up Ns running around that have 5 psi at hot idle, and maybe 10-12 at pto speed.. ( more is better. but those are the lows you see.. that or just plain drop to -0- when hot from so much wear.. )

soundguy
This engine was rebuilt between 5-10 years ago and I know it has rarely been used for the past 5. I know when the engine is warm and I have the throttle about 6/8th's open (before the oil change) I was seeing around 30 psi. So I think the engine is still holding together alright. I will be using this tractor mostly to mow. So it will probably only see use when the temp is above 50 degrees. What oil is recomended if the engine is in decent shape and I do not plan to run it much at all in the winter?
 

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Hi cardana, I pretty much agree with most of the suggestions here, but I too would recommend staying with whatever was being used.

if this engine has had a non-detergent oil used in it since being overhauled, Stick with the non-detergent. Adding a hi detergent oil at this point, will actually cause you more problems. An engine that has hada non-detergent oil used in it, will have a build up of varnish and sludge built up in the ring grooves on the pistons, behind the rings. This actually hold the rings more tightly against the cylinder walls. Switching to a hi detergent oil now, will slowly begin to clean these deposits out from behind the piston rings, and will ultimately increase smoking and oil usage. (Been there and done that)

Good luck

Steve in Pa
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Another problem I have is that I don't know what was used in it before. Like I said the rebuild was done at least 5 years ago. I got this tractor from my father in law, he said he does not know what kind of oil was used in it. This tractor was shared among 4 brothers years ago and I don't think any of them know what kind of oil has been used after the rebuild. The oil was black for sure but did not have any funny smells or colors in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another problem I have is that I don't know what was used in it before. Like I said the rebuild was done at least 5 years ago. I got this tractor from my father in law, he said he does not know what kind of oil was used in it. This tractor was shared among 4 brothers years ago and I don't think any of them know what kind of oil has been used after the rebuild. The oil was black for sure but did not have any funny smells or colors in it.
**The oil probably has not been changed in the last five years...maybe more:fing20:
 

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Any autoparts store should have some SAE 30 in stock. I run Shell Rotella 15W40 in mine well when it was running anyways. You'll probably be fine with whatever you chose just keep it clean :fing32:
 

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**The oil probably has not been changed in the last five years...maybe more:fing20:

not great.. but I've seen worse.

if you got 10w30 in it now.. go with it and see what you are getting for oil pressure.. if oil pressure is goo.. you are good to go.

on the non detergent oil.. don't even considder it.. if it had non det in it.. switch it and just plan on a couple oil change flushes and filter changes to bring it into modern lubrication times..

non-det oil is for air compressors and old lawnmowrs..:fing20:

soundguy
 

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Where do you get just straight 30w? I'm new to tractors, I've worked on lots of cars but all newer stuff.
even walmart has it.. autozone.. discount auto.. tractor supply.. just got to look for it.

heck.. jiffy across the street has it too.

soundguy
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I used the 8n for the first time after the oil change over the weekend. When I first fired it up, it got up to ~45 psi on the oil pressure gauge, and maintained good pressure the whole time while using it for a few hours. It did not smoke at all so I think I am good to go.:fing32:
 

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Good to hear :thThumbsU, enjoy yer 'N'
 
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