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Discussion Starter #1
Dont know if you guys have seen this before, I did a quick search and didnt find anything. Have any of you tried this, what do you think? Do you use anything else that would be considered "weird" that works well?

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and transmission fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)"
 

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I use PB Blaster and never have had a problem. there a a lot of way to loosen bolts. Freezing, heat ect ect
 

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I used to use Liquid Wrench, then WD-40 & currently use PB Blaster. (PB seems to work the best of those three) I like the idea of the 50/50 mix of ATF & Acetone. If it really does work as well as the chart shows you can't beat the cost/performance. I'm going to definitely give it a try.
 

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I use WD-40 most of the time and save the hard stuff for PC blaster...
The ATF-Acetone mix would not work for me... Evaporation would take it away before I would get to use it....
 

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I use PB Blaster but I am very interested in trying the ATF concoction as well. It makes sense.
 

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I've pretty much always used WD40 mainly because I always have it around and use it for other things besides rusty bolts.I've tried Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster and never saw much of a difference and the WD40 was cheaper than PB Blaster.I've been thinking about mixing some of the acetone/atf to see how that works because even WD40 is getting expensive.Sometimes it depends on what I'm doing and how fast I want to finish a repair,I usually won't waste a day waiting for penetrating oil to work if I don't have a very good reason to.I'll get out the fire wrench or if it's a through bolt,just snap it off and replace it with new,a bolt won't hold as well after it's been used and stretched a time or 2 anyway.If it's a bolt in a threaded hole,sometimes I'll wait on penetrating oil but I'm usually not afraid to cut the head off and get the drill out and drill it out if it doesn't look like penetrating oil is going to work.
 

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That's some good info.

I used Liguid Wrench for the longest time, until a friend gave me a can of Kroil... that stuff is very impressive.
 

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I use PB Blaster most of the time, just because thats what I have most of....Have finally found a local supplier that carries Kroil--but like said--it's expensive, so don't waste it...:goodl:
 

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I used a new product to me. It is called "Knock-er Loose" made by K&W. Worked great for the froze Honda engine. I also like PB. Haven't found a source out here for Kroil.
 

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Something else that I forgot to mention,I invested in a set of reverse twist drill bits a few years ago,these things are great for drilling out bolts.If your not familiar with them,you run the drill in reverse to drill the hole,usually between the heat built up while drilling and the vibration,once the bit bites just before it breaks through,it'll back the bolt right out of the hole.I do usually spray some penetrating oil in the hole as I'm drilling so that probably helps some also.
 

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Penatrants only help SOME of the time IMO--and get costly ,at 4 bucks a can,that empties quickly..I'm going to use the ATF & Acetone mix,its certainly cheaper ,since I can get gallons of ATF free every time my friend does a tranny swap or fluid change at his shop..and fingernail polish remover can be had at the dollar store too,for a buck,while Acetone here is 12+ bucks a gallon!..

NOTHING beats an oxy-acetalyne torch though..I could fix nothing up here in saltland without one,and even WITH one,you cannot always get every bolt out..sometimes despite your best efforts and having all the right tools,skills,and patience,the bolts snap anyway..then your forced to drill them out and tap the hole (and DONT break off the TAP in the hole,OR the drill!)--and sometimes need to install a heli-coil..you become a machinist in a urry,whether you wanted too or not..I find broken bolts in blind holes very discouraging,especially in exhaust manifolds that now must be drilled out,while lying on the ground straight up over head..and all the chips go right in your eyes of course,etc..it's enough to make one suicidal,when you hear hat sickening "snap"..:(
 

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Dynomite works well LOL!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well, thanks guys. I dont have any acetone around, but have a quart of ATF so I will mix it up some time... If anyone wants to mix some up and try it, that would be nice. Tell us how good it works.
 

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I like Kroil best, but whatever I secure from yard sales on the cheap is what I wind up using. That and the aforementioned oxy-acetylene usually gets it done.
 

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Kroil is the best there is. I have used it on rusty tractor bolts that I thought would never come off without heat and overnight they almost came off by hand. Its the best...bar none
 
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