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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What Do You Think of This Bricktop

Well, finished dinner and sat down to watch TV. Looked at CL and what appears: an almost perfect unrestored Bricktop! 1976 7084 with magnesium deck.

Package deal with spreader, electric edger and weedeater and four cans of LB oil from same period. Total price? Verrrry reasonable.

I was just complaining that we never get any good LB's here in Texas. This is from the original owner purchased in Illinois from the factory.

Only downside is the bars. Chrome is flaking. I will get it running tomorrow. He had it tuned ten years ago and parked ever since? Still has the claim ticket attached to the bars. He had the bag, chute and the manual, but couldn't find it. Said he would try. See photos below. I will take better ones tomorrow.

It seems I have contracted the fever... Does anyone know the cure?
 

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LawnBoy mech in training.
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Re: What Do You Think of This Bricktop

It seems I have contracted the fever... Does anyone know the cure?
Yes, get two more Lawn-Boys and call me tomorrow.....:trink39:

Excellent pickup, great to see them pop up in places other than IL, WI, IA and NE.....those fellows up North have it good don't they?

TSA ~
 

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"It seems I have contracted the fever... Does anyone know the cure? "

just enjoy the ride
if its cured means no more fun
nice grab!!!!!
 

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more cowbell?
:ROF
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anybody want an a Sears spreader, electric edger and weedeater? I need to buy some pushbars!
 

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Great find, just clean it up and it is good to go. Seems the only OMC Lawnboys that pop up here in Texas are transplants, don't think Lawnboys were sold down here in the 60's and 70's. Well I should of said the older OMC mowers. I do see a few of the F series mowers from around the late 80's around here, but definately no D series mowers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great find, just clean it up and it is good to go. Seems the only OMC Lawnboys that pop up here in Texas are transplants, don't think Lawnboys were sold down here in the 60's and 70's.
Updated Photos CLEAN

I've got strong spark! Washed the whole thing down. Motor was caked with grass, dust and grease. Cleaned up well. Underdeck was also full of grass. I am very surprised how the magnesium deck doesn't scale like the aluminum. I can see now why they are so sought after. I went ahead and soaked the tank interior with detergent and water. These things are built to the tolerances of the motorboat engines. Very over-engineered for cutting lawns. Every component is of a higher quality than I see on stuff made today. Pretty incredible.

I need a filter element, nylon bolt for the mulch cover,pushbars and new wheels to have a like new LB!

I know what you're saying. This was a transplant. Are you up in Dallas Lawnboy77? There are more up there than down here on the coast.

Take a look at the photos after washing. I will post more after the tank dries out.
 

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That mower looks outstanding! It most definately was never stored outside, I would even bet that the PO stored it in his garage or basement. Those original flywheel covers are usually broken up really bad, that one looks mint.

Oh sorry almost forgot, I am in Abilene.
 

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Look just like my 7024. Probably the mag deck is the only difference. The D bricktop is a superb engine in my opinion. It's still my favorite mower, but I don't use it all that much. The engine sound is sweet music.

Make sure the screen that fits into the tank that's part of the gas shutoff is clean. My shutoff valve was broken so I re-engineered it with a 1/8 inch brass 90 degree hose barb, two lengths of fuel hose and a B&S inline shutoff.

Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: What Do You Think 7084 Ready!

All back together! Added a little fuel, opened the petcock, primed three times, gave three light pulls and she fired right off!

Runs like a top literally. PO must have run the fuel out of the carb before he put it up. The petcock was closed when I disassembled it.

What's the RPM on these? 3K something?

I just checked with a longtime LB dealer here to see if I can fetch some of the parts. Another LB saved from the trash heap!

Lawnboy77, do you cut the grass with yours? I'm afraid that I will damage this one!

My grandmother and grandfather were from Coleman, but moved to Ft. Worth in the twenties! My grandfather was a cattleman purveyor and started one of the first cattle insurance firm in that area. Almost like neighbors! That side of my family came there in the 1850's and kept another residence in Angelina county near Jasper.

Here's the final assembled photos---
 

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I use my 5024 and 7022 regularly, to be honest I like using them better than my F series mower. They are so light and quiet I can't resist, mind you I am very careful about what and where I mow though. Now as far as the NOS 5022 that I am building, it will never see grass, but I will start it a couple of times a season just to keep the insides lubed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
My local dealer called me back. He has the bolt and nylon nut I need for the mulch plate, aftermarket wheels(ugh).

He can get all the other stuff which is really cool. I don't know if I want to pay $140 for the pushbar. He didn't have the filter element though. Should I just cut one from foam? What about the AM wheels? Yes or no?

Any thoughts on touching up the scuff on the leftside of the deck?

Do you have any of the triangle decals for the front?

The 5024 looks NOS to me! Are those NOS wheels or aftermarket?
 

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Just to let you know that the pushbars will most likely be painted black, at least the lower portion and the top portion will probably have an extra hole that the original handle didn't. I have shipped 2 sets of bars to Paulschrome.com in PA to have estimates on rechroming, they should have the bars and I should be getting the bad news any day now. LOL Probably looking at a few hundred dollars for chrome work, Pauls is the best though and guranteed to outlast manufacturers plating.
The aftermarket wheels are okay, you should still be able to buy the original wheels online at Partstree.com, or at least the rears will be an exact match, the fronts are not going to be the nuclear symbol hubs, but they are still lawnboy wheels. The only problem that I have noticed from the aftermarket wheels are the inconsistency of the thickness of the hubs, another words you may have to add or take away washers just to get the wheels to roll smooth without excessive wobble. I have not tried the commercial steel hub wheels, maybe someone else could speak for those wheels.
I would just order the foam air filter elements from partstree, I would make a list and order once to save on shipping cost.
As far as touching up the side of the deck, I wouldn't, that mower is 100% original and I would keep it that way. I restored mine because I felt like I had to because they were in much worse shape than your machine is. I would just do a mechanical restore only on that machine, if it even needs a mechanical restore, it would appear that you got lucky and found a rare gem that is mechancially sound also.
I do have the OPEI decals for the front if you want one just PM with your address and I'll ship it out to ya.
The 5024 in my avatar has new Lawnboy replacement wheels, I suppose that you could say that the rear wheels are NOS, the fronts I think would be considered replacement OEM wheels, they don't have the familiar mag look hub, but they work really well and they do have the grooves for the felt washers.
 

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For my air filter, I just found a large filter that was originally for a B&S 12 horse or some such and cut a round plug out of it. Oiled up and it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just to let you know that the pushbars will most likely be painted black, at least the lower portion and the top portion will probably have an extra hole that the original handle didn't. I have shipped 2 sets of bars to Paulschrome.com in PA to have estimates on rechroming, they should have the bars and I should be getting the bad news any day now. LOL Probably looking at a few hundred dollars for chrome work, Pauls is the best though and guranteed to outlast manufacturers plating.
The aftermarket wheels are okay, you should still be able to buy the original wheels online at Partstree.com, or at least the rears will be an exact match, the fronts are not going to be the nuclear symbol hubs, but they are still lawnboy wheels. The only problem that I have noticed from the aftermarket wheels are the inconsistency of the thickness of the hubs, another words you may have to add or take away washers just to get the wheels to roll smooth without excessive wobble. I have not tried the commercial steel hub wheels, maybe someone else could speak for those wheels.
I would just order the foam air filter elements from partstree, I would make a list and order once to save on shipping cost.
As far as touching up the side of the deck, I wouldn't, that mower is 100% original and I would keep it that way. I restored mine because I felt like I had to because they were in much worse shape than your machine is. I would just do a mechanical restore only on that machine, if it even needs a mechanical restore, it would appear that you got lucky and found a rare gem that is mechancially sound also.
I do have the OPEI decals for the front if you want one just PM with your address and I'll ship it out to ya.

I really don't think it needs a mechanical restore. I didn't clean the Pack when I washed it down because I was afraid of getting moisture in it. I will remove it next chance and clean it up. What did you do in your restore? This one doesn't seem to have many hours on it, but it was used. the amount of grime and grass under the cowl said it was used in a dusty environment. The PO said he had moved several times since purchase, and one move was Boulder, Colorado before here.

How does your chroming shop get around the PVC grip when chroming? Do they do that also?
 

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I removed the white grip and will use plasti-dip to redo the handle when I get them back. Plasti-dip is a pretty good match to the heat shrink that they used at the factory.

My restores have pretty much consisted of complete engine over hauls. In the case of the 5024, my crankcase was toast, it had way too much run-out at the lower end of the crank so I bought a NOS C-19 short block and a NOS D crank and installed the new D crank, and ended up with basically a commercial D-476 engine (dual lower bearing) minus the orange shroud and big fuel tank. The 7022 has NOS piston, rings, cylinder and bearings. I got lucky on the 7022, the crankcase lower bearing had very little wear. The decks and shrouds have all been media blasted and powder coated. The shrouds were rusted enough that I felt I had to strip and repaint, and the decks were at about the same point except that they really didn't have much paint left at all and the undersides were pitting pretty bad.

Boulder CO, humm...that is a good environment, super dry, not alot of heat to break down plastics like the flywheel cover, probably a good reason this machine has survived so well.
 

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One other note on that conversion from a C engine to D engine. The connecting rod had already been changed out for one with the needle bearings in the wrist pin end and the 2 ring piston, so I didn't have to worry about having to use a 16 to 1 fuel/oil mix. If you ended up with a real old school C engine you would have to use 16 to 1 fuel mix due to the wrist pin having the solid bearing as opposed to the needle bearing ones found in the newer engines.
 

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I removed the white grip and will use plasti-dip to redo the handle when I get them back. Plasti-dip is a pretty good match to the heat shrink that they used at the factory.
Just to clear this up, the sleeve is not heat shrink, took too long to do it that way in the assembly process and hard to control where it would wind up on the handle.
A large quantity of sleeving was tossed into a large vat containing a chemical called Toulene.
Operator would take a top handle off a rack, lock it on one side down low on the handle into a soft grip clamp. Grab a piece of sleeve from the vat, slide it onto the handle. The sleeve looked/felt like sausage casing when it came out of the vat. Inside of 5 minutes, the Toulene would evaporate and the sleeve was set for life.
If we had a banged up sleeve, we would have to cut it off the handle. Take it back there and have a new one put on.
FordTech went thru the process a few months ago on his commerical restore.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just to clear this up, the sleeve is not heat shrink, took too long to do it that way in the assembly process and hard to control where it would wind up on the handle.
A large quantity of sleeving was tossed into a large vat containing a chemical called Toulene.
Operator would take a top handle off a rack, lock it on one side down low on the handle into a soft grip clamp. Grab a piece of sleeve from the vat, slide it onto the handle. The sleeve looked/felt like sausage casing when it came out of the vat. Inside of 5 minutes, the Toulene would evaporate and the sleeve was set for life.
If we had a banged up sleeve, we would have to cut it off the handle. Take it back there and have a new one put on.
FordTech went thru the process a few months ago on his commerical restore.

Did the line workers were respirators around the tank of toulene? That stuff is a wicked carcinogen, and is highly evaporative. It will dissolve or soften just about any plastic. It is used in a lot of things like oil based paints, modelling glue, epoxy resins, etc.

I can see how it would work to soften and shrink the sleeve. What were the sleeves made of? I thought they were a form of PVC plastic.
 
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