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That stinks to hear that you're having coil issues, I've not had them go bad with my F series lawn boys. I'm a firm believer in using OEM parts whenever possible, but $50 for a toro coil is a little overboard in my opinion. I'd also like to know where to find reasonably price replacements that aren't complete junk.
I suppose I should start using OEM replacement coils also. I just wasn't so sure that the new OEM ones were any more reliable nowadays. I was wondering if the aftermarket imports had cornered the market and were also producing the OEM coils as well. If there are no reports of junky coils with OEM then I'll just go that route in the future.

Oh yes, love your 10525!

Edit: I'm wondering if the excessive heat down here in west Texas is a coil killer. It was over 100 degrees when this last one bit the dust and I'm thinking that the conditions were similar for the others that died. Anyway, I would think that as long as the flywheel cooling fins are kept clear overheating shouldn't be a problem, and I keep my mowers pretty clean in that area.
 

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I wanted to use my Liberty today on Memorial Day,but it was smoking quite a bit so I cleaned airfilter and housing.No more smoke! Then I cut the neighbors front yard.It should have been cut 2 days ago.Grass is growing crazy here.
 

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Nothing. It's a dream for a lazy man. Just start it up and clean the air filter every 8 years. It's Lawn Boy. Sometimes I mix fuel. That's about it
 

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Well I decided to do some preventive maintenance on the F series model 10420 this weekend. Sharpened the blade and hosed it off with the garden hose and also cleaned and oiled the air filter. After letting it run a few minutes to let dry thoroughly it started to sputter like it was running out of fuel. I looked in the tank and it was 3/4 full, now I'm thinking "Oh no, a dirty carb". After tinkering with it sputtering and surging and toying with the carb setting and shutting the fuel on and off with no real effect I shut it down and decided to check a few things. Pulled the carb inlet screen and it was clean as a whistle. I also checked fuel flow to the carb by opening the valve with the fuel line disconnected and fuel flowed freely. At this point I'm leaning toward ignition, but I have my doubts since that coil is only about a year old. Well I got up this morning and decided to put another new chinese coil in there and see what happens and sure enough it was the coil. It took off on first pull and ran perfect after doing slight adjustments. I'm about to the point where I'm willing to pay the big dollars for good quality solid state coils instead of wasting the money on these imports that I can't get to last a couple of seasons (This has been a trend with all my F series mowers...bad coils). The originals from Lawnboy have lasted a long time, up to 16 years on my 1992 model 680543, but these imports have been terrible. I suppose I'm going to have quit buying these cheap coils. Is anyone else having these problems? Does anyone know of a good source for coils that aren't made in China? I don't care if I have to spend triple the money if I get a coil that will last at least 5 or 10 years then I'm happy having spent the extra money. Thanks guys for letting me vent a little this morning.
Lawnboy 77: I got a cheap chinese coil off ebay a few years ago. Starts first pull. For like 4 years now. Easy fix. Want me to spend the time to look up where I got it from? Was a really good deal.
 

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Glad you are having success with those aftermarket coils. I don't know if it's the heat down here in Texas, or maybe that I'm getting water in them when I wash the mowers down. Thanks for the offer on getting me the source, but I think I'll just go with OEM from here on out. I ordered 5 of those coils a couple of years ago off ebay and now I'm down to one. It hasn't been such a good deal for me. The ones I have seem to be lacking in the performance arena as well. I'm even thinking the timing is not what an OEM is either, the start is fine, but in the run status it seems to 4 cycle before it reaches 3200. Almost like it needs another 5 degrees of timing advance to get max power.
 

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I worked on my loafer unit yesterday. Was not running to good, not much power, but started and ran ok other wise. Pulled the engine, removed the muffler assembly and sure enough two of the three exports were clogged up. Cleaned them and reassembled it and what difference. Runs great again.
 

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In a previous post I had complained about the aftermarket coils in my F series mowers being both unreliable and lacking performance, so I ordered a couple of OEM modules a few days ago and received them yesterday, got one installed in the 10420 the same day and boy what a difference it makes in performance. It now runs great in all speeds, whereas before it would really only run decent at fairly low RPMs, and drop off, or start 4 cycling around 2800 RPMs. I'm just guessing the timing of the aftermarket coils are not as accurate as the OEM coils, don't know what else it could be. I do know that the previous aftermarket coil was a sloppy fit and I could at least adjust the timing somewhat by pushing the coil either CW, or CCW to give acceptable performance. This last aftermarket though did not have the elongated mounting slots that would allow me to adjust anything other than the air gap, so it pretty much limited me to operations below 2800 RPM. Anyway, just thought I'd pass this info on, figured there were other folks having similar issues. Now in the longevity department I obviously haven't had the OEM coil installed long enough to know how long they will last, but as far as I'm concerned the increased performance is worth the extra cost of the German made modules.
 

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After getting my freebie Lawn Boy running, I went through everything again then sharpened the blade.

L8R,
Matt
 

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My 7024 now has 114 hours running time since the last tear down in the winter of 2016 (Briggs & Stratton Maintenance Minder 5081). The only problem so far was replacing the exhaust silicone gasket which cracked in couple of areas with pieces broken out (102 hrs), not sure why, but it may have been a lesser quality after market part. This mower has all the retrofit parts developed over the years and you could say this is the acid test. I've been using an exact 50:1 (Legend ZX2-SR/ Shell 87 10% ethanol) mix from the start. Upon opening the muffler and removing the engine to replace the exhaust gasket there was minimal soft carbon in the muffler that easily washed out with mineral spirits and the ports had only a slight edge build up (also soft). The spark plug (Champion CJ-14) has yet to be removed or replaced. It will be interesting to see how many hours it will go. The only other maintenance has been cleaning the air filter and sharpening and balancing the blade. At the end of this season which should be very close to 150 hrs the reed and plate surface will be inspected. I would like to get 250 hrs total before the next full tear down but we'll see.
 

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picked up a john deere 14se in good condition appears to have been used very little still had most of the paint under the deck no pitting of the aluminum in the areas that these mowers typically do. Got it for $40 it had a broken gear in the transmission and appeared to be put away. over the years something got spilled on the paint and discolored it. even the blade brake looked like new. I had the part for the transmission pulled from a parts trans I had. On my first test mow I found out the hard way the BBC friction material was no longer bonded to the lower clutch as it exploded into pieces. After a bit of looking I found I could get the bottom half for $90 but that was just to much to spend. A few web searches I found a place that could make me a new disk for $22 plus shipping. I picked up a new nachi bearing for $9 on ebay
new disk 4.5 inch od x 3.5 inch id x 5/32 thick

I cleaned up the mounting surface prior to bonding the new clutch material

I used a panel bonding auto epoxy using the clutch fly wheel to center and help clamp the new disk in place until the epoxy cured.

once I got it all back together everything works great. here is the link to the company I got the disk from
FRICTION MATERIALS, CLUTCH FACINGS, BONDED FRICTION MATERIALS & BRAKE LININGS
 

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Got my 7262 running well and mowed for about an hour on Saturday. Now there's a Brick Top about 1 1/2 hrs away from me for $120 I'm kind of interested in. It has a pretty clean 19" mag deck, but it's the wrong deck for the engine. Still looks good and it has the D400 on it.


L8R,
Matt
 

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Looks to be a 5024, the correct deck for that engine, looks to be pretty much all original.
He sent me a pic of the deck tag, and it’s a model 5244. Still looks pretty decent though. I’m on the fence. I can grab a 77 Brick Top for $30, but it needs work. Or I can spend the extra and start mowing with it. I may just jump on this one if it’s still there by the weekend.
 

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Okay! Deck is correct but from a 1976 D-600 series. Just needs the correct model plate. I actually picked up a 5244 deck when I was re doing my 5024. Perhaps GraveyardMowerz could make a stick on decal to put over the 5244 nameplate. Bill
 

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Yeah, that would be cool. I’m still leaning towards that one instead of the cheap one.
 

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Ive considered starting to use one of my Duraforces but heck I havent even started one of them for at least 3 or 4 years. Even longer for the old M and others sitting collecting rust.
Reading that makes me a little sad ;)... I remember when you got your 10591!

Trying to catch up on MTF happenings after being away for several years; life's kept me busy. Good to see you're still here in other threads.

This winter I need to finally replace the drive belt, a broken shift cable, and fix the low-oil shutoff wire on my 10590. Yes, it's still running well after 25 years of residential use.
-jon
 

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Took the JX75 out of the garage. Removed the blade for sharpening and then cleared all the residual grass from inside the body housing. Then cleaned it all up with wire brushes on my drill, wiped it all clean and applied two coats of black Hammerite metal paint. Hoping the smooth finish of the paint helps stop too much early season wet grass sticking to the inside and allows easier cleaning with the hose pipe.
 
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